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Tail light panel moulding
#1
When my 72 Mach was painted (almost 10 years ago) I never replaced the honeycomb panel between the tail lights. Mine was cracked and the chrome strips looked like crap.
Well I finally got around to getting a new tail light moulding and new chrome strips for the top and bottom. I also got a new set of hardware for the install.

Does anyone have some pics and or knowledge for me?? I never thought about it until I got it in my hand, the hardware is weird with a "wire" that comes off one side of the "bolt". Im assuming its to hold the chrome stips one but I just would like to see how its set up, any info anyone---?

Cody--
72 Mach-1 12:1 532 Forged internal Scat stroker, Kaase P51 heads, Comp roller cam, March serpentine conversion, C6 manual VB, 9'' 4:33:1.
66 convertible 289, 82k miles.
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#2
I have no pictures but, you insert the wire and clip into the channel of the molding and rotate it until it snaps into place. The wire is a spring that holds the clip in place. Then you can slide it to the position you need to line it up with the holes in the tail light panel.

Chuck
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#3
Thanks chuck. Well I have to drill my holes in the painted panel still, any advice on this---?? My biggest concern is ligning it up to drill. My plan is to grab some fresh drill bits ( What size hole did the factory drill--anyone?)

Ive heard that a guy can put masking tape over where the holes will be drilled to help protect the surrounding paint. - comments?

Also- should I put some primer or paint on the drilled holes to prevent future rust? What did the factory do/use??




Cody--
72 Mach-1 12:1 532 Forged internal Scat stroker, Kaase P51 heads, Comp roller cam, March serpentine conversion, C6 manual VB, 9'' 4:33:1.
66 convertible 289, 82k miles.
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#4
Not sure about the size of the holes, but here are some pictures of mine at the body to give you a general idea of the layout of the holes. I would probably use the same size drill as the hardware stud.

[Image: DSCF6867.jpg]

[Image: DSCF6770.jpg]

[Image: DSCF7006.jpg]
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#5
Those are some nice pics Oly Pony, thank you.

Cody--
72 Mach-1 12:1 532 Forged internal Scat stroker, Kaase P51 heads, Comp roller cam, March serpentine conversion, C6 manual VB, 9'' 4:33:1.
66 convertible 289, 82k miles.
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#6
Ole Pony's pictures answers your spacing question. My best guess about what the factory did is the holes punched prior to paint. I used some home made (base coat mixed with clear and hardener) touch up paint to seal the edges of the holes.

Chuck
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#7
Look on your new panel. There are notches where the studs go
Drill slightly larger hole for adjustment room
Used any paint or undercoating with artist paint brush on the holes
Use 3-M strip chalk around the holes to seal
Don
Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

VISIT US ON THE WEB AT
http://www.ohiomustang.com

Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

[Image: oms_sig_banner.jpg]
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#8
OK - so what's the technique to actually install the panel. I carefully measured out, marked, and drilled the holes without messing up anything (especially, the paint). Then put the trim pieces onto the panel, put the fasteners in there, slid them into the right places, put the panel up to the car, and there's not enough of the threads sticking through the holes for the nuts to grab - mostly because the fasteners are flopping about inside the chrome molding pieces. There's no way [that I can see] to get anything in there to push and hold the fasteners back far enough to catch threads, so I basically just sit there trying to thread on the nuts that will never grab threads... and keep getting pissed.

I didn't have this much trouble welding the whole front clip onto my car.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#9
I remember I had the same issue, because the panel has to be really squeezed down to get the nuts started.

What I did was turn the nuts around, if I remember correctly the nuts hava a washer built into the nut and sealant on them, and the washer was conical and moved the nut further away from the stud.
So I turn the nuts around tighten them down by hand so it squeezed the panel tight to the body, then turned each nut around one by one and tightened so they gripped the studs.



Mister 4x4;186954 Wrote:OK - so what's the technique to actually install the panel. I carefully measured out, marked, and drilled the holes without messing up anything (especially, the paint). Then put the trim pieces onto the panel, put the fasteners in there, slid them into the right places, put the panel up to the car, and there's not enough of the threads sticking through the holes for the nuts to grab - mostly because the fasteners are flopping about inside the chrome molding pieces. There's no way [that I can see] to get anything in there to push and hold the fasteners back far enough to catch threads, so I basically just sit there trying to thread on the nuts that will never grab threads... and keep getting pissed.

I didn't have this much trouble welding the whole front clip onto my car.
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#10
OK - so the squeezing down the panel part, I totally get - in fact, I think I actually got one (1) started... then couldn't get any further. But the nuts are the 'dome' type that I got from OMS. http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_p...temid=2529

I'll have to check [tomorrow] and see if those dome nuts come apart somehow. Otherwise, I might just go to Lowes and see if I can find some standard nuts to make this work. I'm not worried about concours, in fact - I'll be putting a complete carpet kit in the trunk and will likely never see the inside of the taillight panel ever again.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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