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T5 cable clutch question - Pictures!
#1
Wrench 
Hah! Hopefully the pictures bit got you Tongue

As I mentioned in my intro I have a complete T5 with basically everything I need to put it in my 72 coupe, really the only things left to do are figure out how to connect the clutch pedal, to the clutch fork, and shorten the driveline.

I am thinking of doing a cable driven clutch because the T5 came out of a stock fox body which had a cable driven clutch. I've looked at the cable "kits" from modern driveline and others, but they look just like a basic, possibly even factory, cable. I was thinking from looking at it that I can probably just use an OEM replacement cable for a fox body. I have full length headers on a 351W, so there is still quite a bit of room in the engine bay. Does anyone know if this will work?

I have the plastic radius piece that goes on top of the pedal that I took off of a junkyard car.

Have any of you done a cable setup with your T5? How did you route it, attach it, etc.?


Edit:

[Image: 2vd5oyc.jpg] The radius piece that I've harvested from a stock fox body.

[Image: 14dlfy9.jpg] Some unknown piece from the whole pedal assembly, not sure exactly where it goes? Is this possibly some sort of spring return/holder type thing for the clutch pedal?

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#2
Some unknown piece from the whole pedal assembly, not sure exactly where it goes? Is this possibly some sort of spring return/holder type thing for the clutch pedal?

Yes, that is the upper assist spring retainer bracket. It is circled in red in the attached .pdf.
Let me now how your T5 swap works....I would like to do it to my 302 automatic car somedaySmile



Attached Files
.pdf   zbar_scan.pdf (Size: 248.88 KB / Downloads: 27)
  Reply
#3
On my 65, if I remember correctly, I had a metal radius piece welded onto the top of my pedal since I didn't find a way to attach the plastic one.

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
  Reply
#4
i wouldn't waste your time with that cable. i have modern driveline's cable and it works great and it is not a modified OEM one at all. i believe i have some install pictures loaded on photobucket if you'd like.

its a great 250 investment if you want that t5 up and running.

or you can wait GREG at www.americanpowertrain.com to finish up tnfastback's kit.
  Reply
#5
Ooh, thanks for that pdf scan, I should have thought of looking in my factory shop manuals - I have the complete set of Ford factory manuals tucked away, but I always forget about them and have typically been disappointed with what's in there. I figured it must be some sort of return/helper spring thing, but couldn't figure out exactly where it was supposed to go. Do I really need the helper spring thing if I've put roller bearings


Don - Do you happen to know - or could you please measure - the distance from the center of the pedal pivot point, to the top of the radius? I'm assuming I could just make a metal copy of the stock plastic radius, minus the goofy teeth, but it would be great to have some measurements to go by when trying to mount it to my pedal.

I found this: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...&ppt=C0015 - cable, shock-tower mount/bracket, metal quadrant, firewall adjust - for the fbody. Was thinking I could just go buy it, copy everything, take it back, and just buy a cable?

I have plenty of metal, a welder, various cutting utensils, and a lathe for whatever sort of firewall adjuster thing I might want to make. I have the tools and ability to make this kit myself, and I just don't see why $20 or $30 in parts should add up to over $200? The labor doesn't seem that intensive and there really isn't much material or complex engineering that I can see. Am I missing something?


xoliex - That would be great if you could post or pm me the link to your photobucket, I'd love to see a T5 actually going into one of these cars. I believe I have all the parts that I need to make it work, short of a functional cable setup.

I already have the clutch/bell-housing/everything bolted up to the motor which is sitting in the car, I have the proper cross-member, trans mount, open hole in the floor, complete clutch pedal bracket/assembly from a 1971 Mach 1, and a big shop full of tools with a lift (sadly not at my house, but it is where the car is) - I reasonably expect I can get the trans basically mounted and operational with a full day of work. Pictures would still be a great guide though in case I run into some troubles/confusion Smile

Does anyone have any tips/pointers/points that I should think about before I try to tackle this? I may try to tackle it this weekend if it's warm enough outside - the shop doesn't have a heater or insulation yet Sad Regardless, I'll be taking plenty of hopefully helpful pictures when I do it. I know that it hasn't been done very much on our cars, but who doesn't want to get rid of that boring old automatic and climb on the T5 bandwagon? Tongue
  Reply
#6
whitelouis;13750 Wrote:Ooh, thanks for that pdf scan, I should have thought of looking in my factory shop manuals - I have the complete set of Ford factory manuals tucked away, but I always forget about them and have typically been disappointed with what's in there. I figured it must be some sort of return/helper spring thing, but couldn't figure out exactly where it was supposed to go. Do I really need the helper spring thing if I've put roller bearings


Don - Do you happen to know - or could you please measure - the distance from the center of the pedal pivot point, to the top of the radius? I'm assuming I could just make a metal copy of the stock plastic radius, minus the goofy teeth, but it would be great to have some measurements to go by when trying to mount it to my pedal.

I found this: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...&ppt=C0015 - cable, shock-tower mount/bracket, metal quadrant, firewall adjust - for the fbody. Was thinking I could just go buy it, copy everything, take it back, and just buy a cable?

I have plenty of metal, a welder, various cutting utensils, and a lathe for whatever sort of firewall adjuster thing I might want to make. I have the tools and ability to make this kit myself, and I just don't see why $20 or $30 in parts should add up to over $200? The labor doesn't seem that intensive and there really isn't much material or complex engineering that I can see. Am I missing something?


xoliex - That would be great if you could post or pm me the link to your photobucket, I'd love to see a T5 actually going into one of these cars. I believe I have all the parts that I need to make it work, short of a functional cable setup.

I already have the clutch/bell-housing/everything bolted up to the motor which is sitting in the car, I have the proper cross-member, trans mount, open hole in the floor, complete clutch pedal bracket/assembly from a 1971 Mach 1, and a big shop full of tools with a lift (sadly not at my house, but it is where the car is) - I reasonably expect I can get the trans basically mounted and operational with a full day of work. Pictures would still be a great guide though in case I run into some troubles/confusion Smile

Does anyone have any tips/pointers/points that I should think about before I try to tackle this? I may try to tackle it this weekend if it's warm enough outside - the shop doesn't have a heater or insulation yet Sad Regardless, I'll be taking plenty of hopefully helpful pictures when I do it. I know that it hasn't been done very much on our cars, but who doesn't want to get rid of that boring old automatic and climb on the T5 bandwagon? Tongue

clutch pedal attachment!!!

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/s...C00879.jpg

cable at transmission side, it passes thru the fork first and then the bell housing. i'm displaying in the pick that the cable i had is a tad too short as he's use to providing kits for 351c guys. he had to do some brain storming to gather me a kit for a 460. he now makes the cable to fit any motor and you just cut yours if its too long for your 351c or 351w.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/s...C00865.jpg


this thing works GREAT, but i might end up going with the www.americanpowertrain.com hydromax set up due to the fact that there is zero maintenance to it. but of course i'm going to play this out as long as i can then sell off the cable.
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#7
Wow, thanks for the pics. That is WAY different than I expected it to be as far as attachment goes. Every cable T5 conversion I've seen on the earlier cars has a quadrant on top of the pedal and pulls the cable in through the firewall above the pedal.

That definitely gives me something to think about in terms of cable routing and how I'm going to attach it to the pedal. That seems pretty simple...still going to try to make my own though Tongue

-Louis
  Reply
#8
I'll try to measure mine and snap a few pics...it's burried in a box somewhere in my workroom. Funny thing is when you take a car apart it takes up the space of 3 cars.

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
  Reply
#9
Whitelouis,

My son and I used the cable welded radius clutch pedal attachment on his 71 Maverick. Although it is working well the cable threads through and past the header. I was hoping to go with a hydraulic setup on my Mach 1 but due to the booster size I am not sure. The Modern Driveline Cable seems to be a very good complete answer. No great modifications and a very clean install.
  Reply
#10
Don - It is funny how that tends to happen, for some reason when things are all taken apart they don't like to stay organized or compact. If you could get pictures of your radius attachment that would be great. I still want to do it that way, though I may try to route it the way that xoliex's seems to be routed...

Steven - Does it seem to be a problem that it's through/near the headers? Mine are wrapped with header wrap and they are definitely much cooler than just bare metal. Has there been any negative impact from having the cable run so near the exhaust or was it just a pain to route the first time?

Thanks guys! It's not looking like I'll be able to jump on it this weekend, but having all this info/pictures for when I do get the chance is great! It will be soon, I promise!
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