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Synthetic/non-synthetic blend
#11
10W30 is the proper viscosity, dino oil is more than adequate. Be sure it has higher levels of ZDDP to protect the cam and lifters.


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#12
I would toss a bottle of the Lucas zinc additive in just to be safe. I was at a car show this summer and the guy next to me had a 70 Chevelle. We were talking and he asked me if I knew about them removing the zinc in oil and I told him yes that I added the Lucas zinc to mine. He went to the car and came back with a lifter that looked like it have been held to a grinding wheel. It only have a few miles on it. He had to tear the new engine back down and replace cam and lifters and clean it all up. 
Some of the synthetic oils have higher zinc levels and are probably ok but not all do. Ford went to roller cams back in the 80's to prevent the cam wear when they reduced the zinc content. 
One of the divisions of the company I worked for was Scotland Mfg. in N.C. stamped oil filter shells for about everyone. Even the huge ones for big diesel trucks. The biggest difference in filters is inside the filter. Some use paper or something similar and some use fibers. 
Someone said they had a Ford filter come apart would be interested in what came apart? I know that if your valve stem seals in a 302 351 go bad and enough of the rubber gets in the oil pan it can block the pick up screen. On some oil pumps Ford put a provision that if the screen gets blocked it pops up and opens a hole to keep oil going. When this happens the pieces of rubber get pulled into the oil pump and can hold the by pass valve closed and the pump will explode the oil filter which is the weak point in the system. I fixed a couple of them over the years that were splitting the filters.
I do not use synthetic in any of my vehicles I do use the Ford synthetic blend in my truck and 5W20 is the recommended weight for the 5.4 engine. It has 302,000 miles on it now so I guess it works ok.
There will never be one oil that is the best. It will always be an opinion and we all have one. Here is a chart for the Mobil oils that are available and you can see that zinc levels vary a lot by which blend you buy. Most probably are not on the shelf at Wal Mart or your parts house. They keep a limited supply. So if someone says they are using a synthetic you have to dig a little deeper and see which one they are using.
When we kart raced guys that were serious about qualifying up front would drain their oil all out and go run the two laps to qualify with no oil in the crankcase. That allowed the crank to have no interference with the oil and would gain a tenth or two on lap time. We ran 5 W oil and in 8 years of racing never had an engine fail. I have seen the memory tach over 7,000 rpm when we got the gear wrong.  The NASCAR engines today have sealed partitions between the throws and they pull a vacuum to keep the oil out of the way of the crank. 
The picture of the rod cap remove is the engine I took out of my 73 Mach 1. The engine had not been turned over in 37 years and there was still oil in the bearings. That was Havoline 10 W 30 which I put back in with a bottle of the Lucas zinc. 
[Image: DSC-0967.jpg]

[Image: DSC-0966.jpg]


Attached Files
.pdf   mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf (Size: 122.81 KB / Downloads: 1)


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
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David
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#13
Oil questions and the opinions on them are like a**holes, EVERYONE has one.  Haha   I run Rotella 15w-40 diesel oil. And the Motorcraft FL1A filter. I read that the Motorcraft Filters are made by Purolater.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

https://youtu.be/SoW1fhaFPzY  Burn Out Video. 

[Image: 044.jpg]
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#14
A more factual opinion: the thing to worry about between 5-30 and 10-30 is the viscosity when cold. The 5-30 would be much thinner when you start your engine. Both oils would behave the same once it warms up.
That said, i would be more concerned with the 5-20 which would be thinner at working temp.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#15
(12-10-2019, 04:25 PM)RC92234 Wrote:
(12-10-2019, 03:53 PM)Stanglover Wrote: a) what motor?
b) why 5W30?
c) why not a Motorcraft FL1A  filter? My choice as I do care about appearance and somewhat originality.
 In my 351 C4V M code, I run what was recommended by my engine builder and that is Castrol 10W30 non synthetic. Personally, I will not use synthetic in these older engines as they are best suited to conventional oils. That's just my opinion though and I know many do use synthetic oils. I think it depends on the "build"
Geoff.

351Q (4V). Like I said, I went with 5-30w because that’s what the mechanic recommended. And I didn’t go with the Motorcraft just yet because it will be at least another oil change before I start the dress up.

No comment on the mix for now?
 Reading through the replies, I realized I had forgotten to mention that I always add a bottle of ZDDP to the oil. My engine has over 5K miles since it was rebuilt, which was broken in on a stand with Comp Cams break-in oil ( my receipt doesn't say which viscosity though) then changed to Castrol 10W30 after 500 miles, then changed again at 1500 miles and every year thereafter, which is rarely more than 1500 miles, adding ZDDP each time.
 As for the Motorcraft FL1A failing as in jpaz's reply, I would say that was an anomaly. My Ford dealership told me the FL1A is a Purolator, or at least they thought so. I always used Fram filters in the past, but some of these have failed, which surprised me as when I worked for Canadian Fram air filters, the testing we did was over and beyond requirements, so I would have expected the oil filter branch to be on a similar level. Time passes, things change and parts get built more cheaply, so I guess it's possible.

I learn something new every day!
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#16
(12-11-2019, 07:10 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: I would toss a bottle of the Lucas zinc additive in just to be safe. I was at a car show this summer and the guy next to me had a 70 Chevelle. We were talking and he asked me if I knew about them removing the zinc in oil and I told him yes that I added the Lucas zinc to mine. He went to the car and came back with a lifter that looked like it have been held to a grinding wheel. It only have a few miles on it. He had to tear the new engine back down and replace cam and lifters and clean it all up. 
Some of the synthetic oils have higher zinc levels and are probably ok but not all do. Ford went to roller cams back in the 80's to prevent the cam wear when they reduced the zinc content. 
One of the divisions of the company I worked for was Scotland Mfg. in N.C. stamped oil filter shells for about everyone. Even the huge ones for big diesel trucks. The biggest difference in filters is inside the filter. Some use paper or something similar and some use fibers. 
Someone said they had a Ford filter come apart would be interested in what came apart? I know that if your valve stem seals in a 302 351 go bad and enough of the rubber gets in the oil pan it can block the pick up screen. On some oil pumps Ford put a provision that if the screen gets blocked it pops up and opens a hole to keep oil going. When this happens the pieces of rubber get pulled into the oil pump and can hold the by pass valve closed and the pump will explode the oil filter which is the weak point in the system. I fixed a couple of them over the years that were splitting the filters.
I do not use synthetic in any of my vehicles I do use the Ford synthetic blend in my truck and 5W20 is the recommended weight for the 5.4 engine. It has 302,000 miles on it now so I guess it works ok.
There will never be one oil that is the best. It will always be an opinion and we all have one. Here is a chart for the Mobil oils that are available and you can see that zinc levels vary a lot by which blend you buy. Most probably are not on the shelf at Wal Mart or your parts house. They keep a limited supply. So if someone says they are using a synthetic you have to dig a little deeper and see which one they are using.
When we kart raced guys that were serious about qualifying up front would drain their oil all out and go run the two laps to qualify with no oil in the crankcase. That allowed the crank to have no interference with the oil and would gain a tenth or two on lap time. We ran 5 W oil and in 8 years of racing never had an engine fail. I have seen the memory tach over 7,000 rpm when we got the gear wrong.  The NASCAR engines today have sealed partitions between the throws and they pull a vacuum to keep the oil out of the way of the crank. 
The picture of the rod cap remove is the engine I took out of my 73 Mach 1. The engine had not been turned over in 37 years and there was still oil in the bearings. That was Havoline 10 W 30 which I put back in with a bottle of the Lucas zinc. 
[Image: DSC-0967.jpg]

[Image: DSC-0966.jpg]
None of the Mobil 1 oils in the link have sufficient levels of ZDDP to protect flat tappet cams with elevated spring pressures. Chuck
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#17
There is a lot of "stuff" in modern oils. Some of which does play well with stand alone additives. Brief overview of the "stuff". Chuck
https://blog.amsoil.com/more-than-you-ev...additives/
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#18
Geez, some of that sounds like the ingredients in candy bars and vitamins.

I like the "sulfurized fats". I think that's what I'll blame my spare tire and gas on.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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