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suspension upgrade help
#1
Hey guys,
I'm putting in new suspension (kit from laurel mtn.mustang), if I change the strut rod bushings, do I need to make sure the bolts are tightened the same length where the bushings are now ? Big washers on the lower control Which needs to be marked before removing (casters?) were marked before I took out the lower control arm, do I still need an alignmeent? It's kinda hard to match marks on both sides as you tighten the lower control arm bolt, any suggestions? Any short cuts, or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
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#2
The old settings are a good start. Once it's together take it to an alignment shop. The old settings are not good enough.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#3
You will still need to have it aligned. By reinstalling everything close to where it was previously, it will probably drive okay to get it to the shop. As usual, a short test drive should be done to ensure nothing is scrubbing, rubbing, or just plain hinky before heading down the road.

I've used combinations of string, level and tape measure to do a rough alignment in the past. Eyeball it, test drive a bit and keep adjusting until it feels somewhat okay. Be careful when setting the LCA camber. I usually lift it up, adjust, drop it down and check for vertical with a level to get initial setting. Some folks have used double layers of cardboard under the tires.

And make sure whoever is going to do the alignment understands suspensions from the 60's. I had an inexperienced kid one time strip out my camber bolts within seconds of placing it on the rack. What really irked me was I had discussed having someone experienced do the alignment with the manager as I drove in and then he and assigned it a rookie who wasn't even born when the car was new. Of course the shop maintained the bolts were stripped before they touched it....I've never gone back to that shop ever since.
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#4
+1 on the two posts above. Chuck
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#5
I replaced my strut rods with some nice aftermarket units and was lucky enough to have a 'old timer' at the shop down the street do the alignment.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#6
What Jeff, Bill, Chuck and Will said and/or inferred - - get it alignedSmile

BT

Do the RIGHT thing.
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#7
If you have a local car forum ask about alignment shops for vintage cars. It probably won't take long for one to become the obvious choice.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
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