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Summer deadline - 72 Mach 1 Build thread
I used Clecos and self drilling hex head screws when installing mine. Screwed it down to the floor support, then to the rocker and the rear torque box. Finally leveled and adjusted the fit working my way around the tunnel side of the pan.


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thanks both, i have used self drilling hex screws, I'll do a final alignment tomorrow and then prepare for welding !
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been struggling a bit this weekend with the replacement floor pan, advice welcome.

Where i am trying to join two panels together where it was factory spot welded, the panels keep separating during welding, its like I'm not doing the weld correctly or there is an earthing issue.

I've tried welding next to the hex screws where panels are joined together. I have to admit i have used a conventional mig without the spot welding attachment, will that make a difference ?

also many pin holes needing to be filled hence uneven welds....


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Turn your heat up. Looks like your weld is sitting on top and not penetrating down through to 2nd layer. When it’s hot enough the 2nd panel will actually have a hump coming through on bottom side. No special tip needed. Also after I do my weld and it’s still cherry red I tap it with my flat body hammer. Helps pull them together while they are hot.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

https://youtu.be/SoW1fhaFPzY  Burn Out Video. 

[Image: 044.jpg]
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(09-01-2019, 01:01 PM)turtle5353 Wrote: Turn your heat up. Looks like your weld is sitting on top and not penetrating down through to 2nd layer.  When it’s hot enough the 2nd panel will actually have a hump coming through on bottom side.  No special tip needed. Also after I do my weld and it’s still cherry red I tap it with my flat body hammer. Helps pull them together while they are hot.

thanks, i didn't think to do that. will try that and report back.
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Looks like the metal could used cleaned up a bit more also. Need shiny bare metal on each panel.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

https://youtu.be/SoW1fhaFPzY  Burn Out Video. 

[Image: 044.jpg]
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Listen to Kevin. He was extremely helpful when I welded mine together. One of the mistakes I made when I was learning to weld is keeping the heat down too much. I kept making holes in the metal so I solved this by lowering the amps, which is not necessarily a good idea. With time and experience I learned to weld without poking holes. It has to do with building the weld pool slightly before moving and then not moving too fast, but just enough to keep the pool with the tip. Hard to explain. It is all about practice. Now, my happy setting is to follow the recommendation of the chart but adding about one or half a number to the amps. I tend to weld better at a higher amps.

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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(09-01-2019, 11:24 PM)tony-muscle Wrote: Listen to Kevin. He was extremely helpful when I welded mine together. One of the mistakes I made when I was learning to weld is keeping the heat down too much. I kept making holes in the metal so I solved this by lowering the amps, which is not necessarily a good idea. With time and experience I learned to weld without poking holes. It has to do with building the weld pool slightly before moving and then not moving too fast, but just enough to keep the pool with the tip. Hard to explain. It is all about practice. Now, my happy setting is to follow the recommendation of the chart but adding about one or half a number to the amps. I tend to weld better at a higher amps.

thanks both, increasing the heat setting did the trick and it worked so big lesson learned. one of the issues with my welder (its a GYS smartmig so pretty good standard for DIYer like me) is the poor design of the control knob, i could blow on it and it moves.... many a time the knob has gone to a higher setting and it blew through the welded metal. This created an obsession on my part in keeping the temp set low and hence i didn't think to push it up for spot welds. I'm also learning and this was a good insight ans in future I will adjust setting to the need.....

the downside is my welds are a little 'blobby' making more work of sanding/grinding down, but hopefully with practice this will come down to a neat thin blob...
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