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Summer deadline - 72 Mach 1 Build thread
so. progress has been demonstrably slow this week, although I've got a lot done. removed driver side seat platform, can reuse this I think.... cut into tunnel when trying to remove welds though, hey ho will need to add to the welding job list. Still undecided on whether to remove complete floor pans or patch the damaged sections. I'm leaning over to complete floor pans this week.

Removed all interior rear plastic trim panels and rear seat sections including fold down seats so it gives me more space to work in and less panels to damage during welding. Have started cleaning chrome edges and will need to re-dye black carpet as faded but otherwise rear seats/fold downs look good.

Moving backwards, sanded trunk floor, found pinholes in 4 sections. I don't fancy putting in a new floor so will patch weld in sections. Removed rear lights, electrical light wiring, rear panels. Lights are good will need the black trim sealing edges, and rear black panel has some damage will need to epoxy fill, sand and paint.

There is a metal surround with 4 screws attached to the trunk floor for fuel tank filler pipe. this was quite rusty. I had to separate it from the rubber gasket. anyone know if this is reproduced ? I Couldn't see it on CJPP.

will post pics when imgbb is back up....
Missed this one in the past.
On the drain holes. No 71 - 73 ever got dipped in primer they got two coats of spray on primer. That is why they rust so bad.
Yes the cars had to go through a wash tank to remove the oil from the stamping process and would have also gone in a phosphate tank to etch the metal so the primer would stick. So the drains are there for that reason.
If you go to the Ford Facts book that Ray posted it tells the paint process.
In today's world they do e-coat the primer on but it still does not get in close spaces not enough flow of material. The tank with the e-coat is only about 20% paint the the remainder is just water.
On the BMW X-5 it had huge holes in it to allow the liquid to get in also and prevent the body from floating off the carriage. The mustang sat on a carriage all the through the build process. The larger diameter holes in the frame rails were the locator pins on the carriage were.
Here is a link to a music video made on the mustang assembly line you can see car on the carriage in it. You can see how they painted the hoods and fenders off the car also. https://youtu.be/Cy_JTGhKtdg
I know it is way too late now but I encourage everyone to always look at the car yourself or just do not make the purchase. Pictures lie and so do the sellers. Hope the link works does not look right is on youtube of course.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
some pics of trunk floor....

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I had one of those moments last weekend when i surveyed the shell of my 72 and wandered wtf have i got myself into....

hey ho, ok so this weekend the rear has been dismantled and weld work commenced.

first job was a small cut and butt of a tail light edge on the rear panel. I'll do more next week just getting back into the swing and dusting off the welder.....

Priority is rust removal and prevention. I use kurust to coat cleaned areas preventing rust from spreading then red oxide primer to keep at bay until decision on respray. Plan of attack is preservation of as much original parts and sheet metal before replacing complete parts and panels.

Putting off the biggest job (floor plans) till later on.

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a thought....I dont think it was factory (someone can correct me) but PO had horrible silicone like sealant around light panel fixings and this worsened the rust as it seeped behind. I think the less of this the better, good paint and primer and let the car breathe rather than silicone sealing / undersealing everything.... your thoughts ?
I thought the same thing when I started my project. The more I looked the more I found aaargghhh!!
First thing I did was the floors and cowl panel then trunk floor, quarters etc
Best to get the most difficult areas done first I reckon
With the tail lamps as far as I know they had a thick rubber gasket and no sealer but perhaps someone can confirm
Agree in some areas it is best just to treat and apply epoxy primer, 2K primer and paint and make sure your drain holes are clear
In some areas such as roof drip rail mouldings rather than use tape I found it better to use strip caulking
You might get away with patching your trunk floor but be aware the metal will be quite thin and difficult to weld so might have to cut a fair bit away to find good metal.
[+] 1 user Likes OzCoupe72's post
Managed to weld repair the shock tower section that had rusted out. Rust was caused by blockage of drain hole. There are way too many panel sections on this car ! Will grind down welds and then move onto completing the battery fender apron panel replacement.

I know the perfectionists won't like it but it'll be finished up like it was never welded, more important for me was preventing further rust in the recess and clearing the drain hole that the factory folks seam filled.

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Here's a view of the current state of rear section, with surface rust sanded down and ready for kurust and then red oxide primer. I am going to remove windshield for easy access and to avoid damaging it.

How have folks treated rust behind the rear quarter panel in the gaps seen in this pic ?

I don't want to have to remove the quarter panel sections to access as it looks like surface rust but then again the floor pans looked pretty solid before i removed the paint....

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I just removed my tail lights and cleaned the trunk of my 73 Mach 1. When the guys at the factory sprayed paint in the trunk they got very little if any where the tail lights went. The flange with the studs that hold the tail lights in was in the way of spraying the paint. I used a brush and put POR Paint Over Rust around where it seals.
Daniel Carpenter makes a much better seal that the Ford original. I have a couple sets of NOS Ford gaskets but ordered the DC from National Parts Depot. It is molded from better material and more dense.
Like someone else stated I use the 3-M strip caulk on the roof rails and also around the tail lights. I do not wash my Mustangs with a hose or pressure washer and try to stay out of rain. Every time you do wash you feed the rust inside the quarters, cowl, tail lights and all the places with no primer or paint.
The trunk floor is one of the most important parts of your car structure. I think you should think about replacing it. I have seen the leaf springs actually come through the floor at the rear mounts due to rust damage. I believe you will find that replacing the whole front floor pan will be much faster and easier than putting the patches in. They never match in form and very difficult to get a good butt weld. Most people overlap and end up with lots of sealer to close them them.
I have seen my friend put floor pan in from firewall to tail lights in two days. They were not patches.
Any project on a Mustang tends to snowball out of control because you keep finding more issues. You being far from the supply of parts makes it tough and expensive also.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Your moving in the right direction. When you posted the title "Summer deadline" which summer did you mean?

1971 Grandé
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