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Summer deadline - 72 Mach 1 Build thread
I removed the brake booster today. It was fiddly and i dont know how i'm going to put everything back together lol. Does anyone know if there is some factory marking to indicate whether booster is original or repro ? also is there a bench test one can do to test it works ? apologies if this has been asked before.

also i was struggling today to remove the steering column, all the bolts are removed on the firewall side, what do i need to disconnect on the engine bay side ?

I'll try and take some pics tomorrow.
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original or repro ?

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What do i need to disconnect at the engine end to remove steering column ?

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The clamp between the rag joint and steering box, that connects the rag joint to the steering box input shaft. One bolt. You can also remove two bolts that hold the rag joint together. You'll also need to remove the firewall plate/clamp from the inside.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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I have a "donor" 71 grille, but it's different for 72. Otherwise, I'd cut a bit you need (if still on the donor).

The booster seams be the correct one, tho, looks on picts like a 9 inch. Both my cars have originally an 11. I know you can have both sizes, but I don't know why they are not all of same size. My 73's is refurbished(exterior), my 71 was busted, full of brake fluid. Replaced it with a new one, as sending for repair was too crazy, but have only managed to find a new 9. Kept the old one, in case I ever find a place to let it rebuild or find the parts needed for a rebuild.
If you manage to find a serial, I'm sure @Secluff will tell you where it was made and when!

[ i dont know how i'm going to put everything back together lol.]
I know the feeling, don't think about that now! Smile

btw what happened to one of the steering pump tube/base? I detect from the non-round shape the use of "illegalOnMustang" tooling Big Grin

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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(06-09-2019, 05:14 PM)Fabrice Wrote: I have a "donor" 71 grille, but it's different for 72. Otherwise, I'd cut a bit you need (if still on the donor).

The booster seams be the correct one, tho, looks on picts like a 9 inch. Both my cars have originally an 11. I know you can have both sizes, but I don't know why they are not all of same size. My 73's is refurbished(exterior), my 71 was busted, full of brake fluid. Replaced it with a new one, as sending for repair was too crazy, but have only managed to find a new 9. Kept the old one, in case I ever find a place to let it rebuild or find the parts needed for a rebuild.
If you manage to find a serial, I'm sure @Secluff will tell you where it was made and when! 



[ i dont know how i'm going to put everything back together lol.]
I know the feeling, don't think about that now! Smile

[btw what happened to one of the steering pump tube/base? I detect from the non-round shape the use of "illegalOnMustang" tooling Big Grin]

re grill, thanks - I'll send some pics of the bits that are missing to see if this works for your donor pieces

re booster -So, reason i asked, was same as you i guess, if my part was repro, i would hesitate less to just get it replaced with a new one than send it for repair or try to repair it myself. Surprised you gave up on that option Wink

Steering pump removal was a disaster, you just reminded me, i need to get that sorted as well.... 

oh did i forget to mention ? My summer deadline will be coinciding with the 50th anniversary of the car - summer 2022 :=) gives me plenty of time to get a degree in plating, plastic welding, soup making, the works..... maybe even paint spraying....
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(06-09-2019, 04:07 PM)Don C Wrote: The clamp between the rag joint and steering box, that connects the rag joint to the steering box input shaft. One bolt. You can also remove two bolts that hold the rag joint together.  You'll also need to remove the firewall plate/clamp from the inside.

thanks Don, will give it a go. the firewall plate bolts are now loose and ready to come off just wasnt sure of the engine bsy side....
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(06-09-2019, 06:30 PM)baz70 Wrote:
(06-09-2019, 04:07 PM)Don C Wrote: The clamp between the rag joint and steering box, that connects the rag joint to the steering box input shaft. One bolt. You can also remove two bolts that hold the rag joint together.  You'll also need to remove the firewall plate/clamp from the inside.

thanks Don, will give it a go. the firewall plate bolts are now loose and ready to come off just wasnt sure of the engine bsy side....
Been awhile since i last posted, had to take a bit of an enforced career break, now trying to get the project back on track.

Removed passenger side seat pan. will reuse this but need to do some minor welding.

Preparing the driver side replacement floor for installation... have come across an issue, wondering how other folks have overcome ?.... the front of the floor near the tunnel is not seating correctly, do i need to create some cuts in the floorpan to ease pressure on it so it sits correctly. My approach is to spot weld using punched holes on the sill, front and back sides, and on the tunnel to screw in some metal hex screws to align tunnel to replacement pan and then to cut a line across and then to butt weld in across the cut line once it has been secured using clamps.

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When I did mine I shaped it as I was welding. Sometimes I had to use a hammer sometime just pushing against it with the hammer. Probably it will depend on how much of a gap you are trying to close.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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thanks for the suggestion, I put a 12kb kettle bell on the floor pan to hold it down and its improved fit. there's about a 1cm gap at the front when I look from below. I want to avoid having to guess the gap and cut it only to find it too short. I will fettle a little more and then cut it a little short to give me something to play with and then weld.
I am getting there and the fit overall looks good, one issue is the floor height is around 0.3cm taller than prior floor as the sill lip is shorter than the original floor pan. I guess i can live with that as it will give a little more headroom.
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You could use self taping screws or cleco's for this. then you sure you have the same alignment each time you take the patch back in place after you have changed something.
You also prevent cut too much doing this way.
You can hammer it in as you go, but if your part has too much tension, you can be sure the tension will be released in some form or another at some point.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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