• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Suddenly No Spark
#1
I NEED SOME HELP!!!

For those of you who have watched my Countdown to Start Day post over the last few years, you have seen my litany of roadblocks from leaking brakes to leaking fuel to unexplained shut downs, and very little time to work on the darn thing as I have to unbury the car each time and it has to be a good weather day when I am not working.

So what happened?  I have the Pertronix Flamethrower Coil, and an Ignitor III module.  I last ran the car in the fall last year where I had problems with it shutting down after about 5 minutes.  But it would always re-start.  Now I get no spark to the cylinders at all.

I have checked the coil with a Digital Volt meter and have 12V+ at the terminals.  I have put an inductive timing light on the coil wire and get a consistent strobe, but no signal on the plug wires.  NOTE:  I have moved the timing since it last ran.

I am out of ideas and have to work on this all by myself.  Do you have any suggestions?

1) Should I set the engine at TDC and reset the timing exactly to #1.

Any other suggestions?  Please Help!

kcmash

Oh, the other frustrating item.  That nice reproduction ground cable I bought with all the correct markings now split apart at the tightening bolt.  I don't even have a mile on the restoration and that dang thing has failed.   Definitely NOT OEM quality.
  Reply
#2
No voltage on the plug wires, with voltage on the coil wire, means the voltage on the coil wire isn't getting from the center terminal in the distributor cap to the cylinder terminals, if all wires are inserted in the cap posts. Either the center terminal is damaged or the rotor is damaged or missing.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
#3
My first thought was that, a damaged or mis-placed rotor.  I checked to make sure the rotor was in decent shape(not bent, properly oriented) and cleaned all the contacts in the cap.  I also inspected the ball in the center of the cap as I have seen those broken before.

I think I must me far enough off in my timing that the rotor is between terminals when the spark gets there.  If Course that makes NO sense to me as I have never been that far off before, and I should be getting a much higher quality spark from the Pertronix that would jump any little gaps.

I mean I am getting nothing to the cylinders as far as trying to fire.  It just crenks.

So you think with the pulsed signal and the 12+ v at the coil that I have a good spark module and I am just being too stupid with my timing?

THANK YOU for chiming in.

kcmash
  Reply
#4
First, get rid of the Pertronix Ignitor III put in a P II. You could be having similar but worse issue than I experienced. The stupid plastic bearing between the two plate on the Ford model will allow the top plate to move and close up the air gap. When that happens it will short out the system. You'll either get rough running as my engine experienced or probably no spark at all. If you P III is older, I'm almost sure that is your problem. I have commented many times on this issue. The P III electronically is very good , but the mechanical construction stinks and more than likely the reason Pertronix replaced the one I sent back to them with a P II and coil without question. I've had zero problems since. I also had to figure out how to build and recurve the Motorcraft distributor. If you don't like the factory original type, I believe the Duraspark is a great alternative.
Just my opinion. Don't give up, it's frustrating for sure, but in the end, you'll win.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
  Reply
#5
My ignitor III is a newer one(2018- Maybe 2017 from Summit Racing).

So should I put points back in it?  Is the Pertronix that troublesome?   I have been trying to ask and read reviews.  The reviews all state that the III is greatly improved and resolves all the issues.  I did notice my factory tach was working fine when it did run with no resistor mods or anything.

I'v got the beer, I just need someone to help me keep a clear focus and crank the damn thing while I tweak timing and see if I can get a spark.  Otherwise I can put points back in.

The Pertronix tech line thought the module was working fine since I was getting a steady strobe at the coil wire, but he didn't like the fact that I was using a timing light to find spark.  He preferred that I pull the coil wire and look for a spark.  I always get shocked when I do that, so I was not so willing.

What do you think.  Can I see a solid and consistent strobe in my inductive Timing light and still not have a quality spark going to the distributor cap?

kcmash
  Reply
#6
OK, The latest.

I reset the timing to 7 degrees BTDC.  I now get spark at the wire according to the Timing light, and she consistently hits the painted mark on the damper at my 7 degrees.  I actually got a "chimmy" out of it so I did get a fire.

Now the question is what next to get a running car.  Which reminds me,  those of you with electric choke carbs, where do you connect?

kcmash
  Reply
#7
(03-31-2019, 04:41 PM)kcmash Wrote: My ignitor III is a newer one(2018- Maybe 2017 from Summit Racing).

So should I put points back in it?  Is the Pertronix that troublesome?   I have been trying to ask and read reviews.  The reviews all state that the III is greatly improved and resolves all the issues.  I did notice my factory tach was working fine when it did run with no resistor mods or anything.

I'v got the beer, I just need someone to help me keep a clear focus and crank the damn thing while I tweak timing and see if I can get a spark.  Otherwise I can put points back in.

The Pertronix tech line thought the module was working fine since I was getting a steady strobe at the coil wire, but he didn't like the fact that I was using a timing light to find spark.  He preferred that I pull the coil wire and look for a spark.  I always get shocked when I do that, so I was not so willing.

What do you think.  Can I see a solid and consistent strobe in my inductive Timing light and still not have a quality spark going to the distributor cap?

kcmash
 I have to be honest, since the troubles I had with a P III in 2012-13 and the fact that Pertronix replaced the part without question, I certainly hope there has been a major redesign of that bearing since. If that is the case then I would not have a problem using a PIII again. It's easy to check while in the distributor, just see if you can move the top plate sideways or up and down, i.e. any movement other than a smooth rotation.
Geoff.

Edit; Sorry I had to take a break. Just thinking about it, if you put the points back in, you also have to put a standard coil in as well. Do you have a full 12V to your P III? Very important. If not, I'm thinking that could be part of the problem. I'm far from being knowledgeable when it come to electronics, but this is just from my own experience sorting out similar issues. Frustration doesn't even start o cover it!!
Electric Choke. just need a keyed 12V wire to splice into, but make sure it's a good connection, soldered and shrink wrap.

I learn something new every day!
  Reply
#8
PIII is junk and still is made the same.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
  Reply
#9
(03-31-2019, 07:17 PM)73pony Wrote: PIII is junk and still is made the same.

Hmmm! you mean they didn't learn anything from all the complaints?

I learn something new every day!
  Reply
#10
They did not. Tried to talk a friend of mine out of going with one. He did anyhow. Exactly the same construction. Told him it won’t be long and suggested he keep a set of points in the trunk.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Solenoid - no spark JoColtrane 2 697 05-22-2016, 08:46 PM
Last Post: midlife



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)