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Subframe Connectors
#1
I have 2 things I want to get done to my 73 Mach 1 this year, sub-frame connectors and getting my door sagging issue fixed. My question is which sub-frames are the best to use and I don't want them hanging too far down where they can be easily seen. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

It is inexcusable for scientists to torture animals; let them make their experiments on journalists and politicians.

Henrik Ibsen
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#2
Tinman Fabrication makes an excellent weld in connector. They run from the torque boxes to the front rear leaf spring eye. They add no additional ground clearance issues. They stiffen things up nicely. I have a cross brace from them too with a nice driveshaft safety loop, but it will have to wait until I redo my exhaust.

Bolt ins are nearly worthless.

If you were ever going to put an aftermarket rear suspension in the car, you would want to use their corresponding sub frame connectors.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#3
Global West for sub-frame connectors, I have them, quality, ease of installation was great. I had already sent back a ill fitting set from another vendor.
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#4
Jeff73Mach1;165422 Wrote:Tinman Fabrication makes an excellent weld in connector. They run from the torque boxes to the front rear leaf spring eye. They add no additional ground clearance issues. They stiffen things up nicely. I have a cross brace from them too with a nice driveshaft safety loop, but it will have to wait until I redo my exhaust.

Bolt ins are nearly worthless.

If you were ever going to put an aftermarket rear suspension in the car, you would want to use their corresponding sub frame connectors.

+1 on Tinman. they were easy to install.
-jbojo

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#5
I did global west about 25 years or so ago and they have been great. I use them as a jacking point. A real must on convertibles.

And if you go over a curb they double up as a nice off road slider:

[Image: P1010297.jpg]

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#6
will e;165441 Wrote:I did global west about 25 years or so ago and they have been great. I use them as a jacking point. A real must on convertibles.

And if you go over a curb they double up as a nice off road slider:

[Image: P1010297.jpg]

Jeg has them for $169 right now with free shipping. I think this is a really good price.
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#7
round tubes resist torque better than square, given same tube wall thickness. Actually octagon formed tubes are supposed to be best but i've never seen any used for this application.
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#8
and square tubes nest into the front subframe rails when you open them up and allow for more complete welding.


Either works beyond the noticable needs of 99.9% of all users

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#9
I recently installed the Tin Man while I had it on a Frame/table Jig. I thought they installed well, but I have no experience with any other type. I purchased them from Jeg's and saved a few bucks and free shipping for what its worth.
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#10
I modeled mine as a cross between the Global West and Maier Racing pieces.

We just built a set for the stock eliminator car too.
The front inserts about 18" inside the front framerails through holes bored in the ends.


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Jeff T.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers.
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