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strut rod rubber Bushing removal help
Hey guys, just replaced the suspension on my 72 convertible and had couple of questions.
I'm having trouble pulling out the strud Rod rubber Bushings that is mounted in the frame w/metal washers. I was able to pull out the Rod , then I tried to pry the rubber bushing with a screwdriver but it wouldnt do anything (Very tight). So,I cut it, then pryed the rubber bushing out, but the big metal washer I noticed has flare which holds the round tube like spacer that the rod penetrates through. Should I cut the flare then pull it out? Has anyone done this?

Second questions: I replaced the the upper/lower control arms, coil spring is back in, sway bar will be last. Greased the control arms fittings, but upper control arm is taking a lot, what's considered an ok amount of grease? I over did it on the lower control arm, but it came out from the side, so thats a hint i guess. Please let me know if Im missing anything that needs to be done before I put it all togather and take it for a test drive, then offcourse for an alignment. Again, any help would be greatly appreciate it. This site is very informative and I really appreciate every single person that has helped me out in the past.
Your new strut rod bushings should come with new washers, the centering tube and a spacerfor between the bushings. So I'd say cut out the old stuff or hit it with a bfh.

After you've driven a few miles recheck the strut rod nuts. I replaced mine a few weeks ago and I found the outer nuts had loosened up quite a bit.

When I grease my bushings I pump in the grease until I see clean grease oozing out, that way I know the dirty grease in the bushings is gone.

Rick Bombard
1971 Grabber Green Mach 1 351C 4V
2013 Race Red California Special Convertible
1973 Medium Copper Metallic Convertible 302 4V     SOLD
1953 F-100 project

Deleted my previous reply to this thread because I think my memory was failing me on the sequence of events I used to get my strut rod bushings out. I do know the reason why it was difficult to get apart, and that was that the inner metal sleeve had flared slightly at the end and wouldn't pull through the outer metal sleeve without using brute force.

[Image: stangprofile3.jpg]
They are a little pricey but consider these instead of using your old strut rods and new bushings:


Really made a big difference in my cars handling.

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
Guys, I was only able to cut the spacer w/a die grinder. Strut rods are in, today ill install the stabilizer bar & then put back the rest of the car before starting it. Thanks for all your help guys, will post pics very soon.
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