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Steering/ Wheel Questions
#1
I decided I definitely need my power steering box rebuilt or replaced. It's just getting a little too scary on the highway and I'm planning to go to Colorado this summer in it (6000 mile round trip). Any recommendations for companies that can hook me up? It's got the original Saginaw box and I'd like either keep it stock or at least close enough that it'll just bolt straight up.

I'd also like to replace the rag joint since I think it's getting a little worn. Anything special I should look for? Or just whatever's cheapest?

My third question is about the set of wheels I got recently. They're that old style that has the slotted holes for multiple bolt patterns, and they had sort of oblong or oval shaped washers to set the bolt pattern. I can't for the life of me figure out what those washers might be called or where to get them. Any ideas?
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#2
powersteering.com did the rebuild on my box. Did a fantastic job. I also had mine converted to a quick ratio at the same time. I think it was around $300 total but I was able to keep the original box that goes to my car and I sent with a new pitman arm and my old one still attached. They indexed and removed the old one and installed the new one before sending back to me. I am extremely happy with the work they did.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#3
You could do the box yourself if you wanted a project. I have done several with good results. If it is something that you might consider let me know and I'll post some info.

The rag joint is a bit of a pain. Everyone seems to agree that the Scott Drake rag joint is better suited as a fishing weight. The pins on it are too short to couple with the slots on the steering shaft if the rag joint was to fail. The mustang rag joint is kind of an oddball since I think one of the pins is 5/16" and the other is 9/16" in diamerer. You could get a bolt together kit for the rag joint that comes with a new disk and go that route. I don't believe anyone is making a correct replacement that actually works.
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#4
I'm a little hesitant to try rebuilding it myself because I've heard from some people these boxes can be pretty finicky, and I really don't have much time to do it. I'd rather pay and know 100% that it's going to work. I'll check out powersteering.com for sure and see what they think.

As for the rag joint, are there any options other than the crappy rubber ones? Like poly or something like that? Or maybe I could swap it out for something else entirely?
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#5
Here is a thread that may help you.
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-stee...-i-lose-it

You can find more by searching the forum.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#6
(01-23-2018, 04:36 PM)73pony Wrote: I also had mine converted to a quick ratio at the same time.

+ 1 ^

I don't remember who re-built mine, but this upgrade makes it steer like a modern car.

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#7
I think I'm leaning towards the quick ratio, but I like the slow steering because it feels like an old car. I don't really want it to feel like a new car. Maybe just slightly quicker.

Don, that thread was good, but he never said what the solution was. I'm definitely suspecting the rag joint is part of the problem. The entire front end of my car is pretty much new and it was aligned this past summer so I'm pretty sure none of that is part of the problem.
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#8
(01-23-2018, 09:32 PM)RadRacer203 Wrote: I think I'm leaning towards the quick ratio, but I like the slow steering because it feels like an old car. I don't really want it to feel like a new car. Maybe just slightly quicker.

Don, that thread was good, but he never said what the solution was. I'm definitely suspecting the rag joint is part of the problem. The entire front end of my car is pretty much new and it was aligned this past summer so I'm pretty sure none of that is part of the problem.

The quick ratio is prob the single best upgrade I have done to my car. On the rag joint here is what I did. The “help” section kits don’t have great rubber and the Scott drake metal part is junk but the rubber is the good nylon reinforced rubber joint. I purchased the Scott drake and rebuilt mine using the rubber from that and new hardware.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#9
try oreillys auto  125$ +35$ core life time i think
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#10
The least horrible off the shelf rag joint in my opinion is a Lares 201. I too agree that the rubber disk in the “help” brand kit is pretty horrible.


It is quality, has the correct spline count (13/16”x36 or 31 depending on if you count the splines on the flat). The only bad thing about it is the pin diameter does not match the original 9/16 - 5/16”


And a shameless plug if you decide to rebuild your own... https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-play...ebird-12-7
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