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steering box related
#1
As part of added improvements to my 71, I wanted to address the loose steering by replacing rag joint and doing something with the steering box.

I dont want to get into rebuilding it myself so i'm doing internet searches both to educate myself and see whats available. Of course, as a result of all this I have some questions i hope someone with more experience than me can answer.

I have an SPA-T variable ratio box in the car and I'm trying to decide between buying a rebuilt/remanufactured or sending mine in to get rebuilt.

For example, CarSteering.com has the SPA-T as well as a quick ratio 2.5 turns LTL that can be bought and my core sent in.

Powersteering.com will rebuild a sent in box and can also upgrade to a quick ratio.

Is there one advantage over the other... buying existing and returning core or rebuilding original?
Is it worth getting the quicker ratio over variable ratio?

I can understand replacing seals etc as part of a rebuild but what happens if gears are physically worn down i.e. sector shaft ? Are these even replaceable. especially a variable ratio one or would the internals be replaced with something totally different?

Sorry for all the questions but hopefully someone thats been thru this can educate me!

thanks!
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#2
I had mine rebuilt by powersteering.com and upgraded to the quick ratio. They did a fantastic job, quick turnaround and I could not be happier. It is night and day different.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#3
I've driven both the upgraded quick ratio and the factory variable ratio. I found the variable ratio easier to drive and less "twitchy" on center. The quick ratio definitely takes time to get used to.

If you just do a lot of cruising and general driving, I'd go with the variable ratio. If it's corner carving, a track day or two - maybe upgrade to the quick ratio.

IMO, I wouldn't send in your VR box to have upgraded to QR, get a regular box, send that in and sell the VR unit.


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#4
I also had the quick steer ratio installed and it is a bit touchy. As Hemikiller stated, " The quick ratio definitely takes time to get used to! "

Thanks,
mustang7173 Thankyouyellow

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne
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#5
Odd. I don't find the steering twitchy at all. In my experience it is smooth and certainly makes the car handle more like a modern car. I also upgraded all of the front suspension at the time.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#6
I like what Hemikiller said, find a regular box. By that I think he means a 17.5:1 ratio SPA-S,U, AC or AE and send that in for QR upgrade if that's what you want.
My thoughts are to keep the VR. For ordinary driving, it's all you really need. Get it rebuilt.
 Rebuilding a box properly is far more than just replacing seals. Although in some cases, that's all that may be needed, it's far more likely that the sector shaft will be badly worn at the lower seal area from dirt that has scored the shaft to the point were it leaks like a sieve and will need to be machined, hard chromed and ground to size. I think most of the larger rebuilders will have these already done and on the shelf. Another area that tends to wear is the rotation valve bore. This is from the Teflon seals and depending on how bad, the casting my be scrap although I believe some rebuilders can sleeve them. Then there is the ball screw and balls. Ford listed 5 different size 'kits' for the balls, but are no longer available. They were dimensioned to 5 decimals with very small increments between the 'kits'. However, the rebuilders can buy appropriate sizes from ball bearing manufacturers, but are quite expensive for the home rebuilder to buy, like $2.50 a piece and you need 24 of them for a VR box.
So, yes, if you're not up to doing your own, then send it away for rebuild. However, do your homework first. I learned the hard way by trusting a local brake and steering gear rebuilder who totally F'd up my box to the point that it could have injured me or worse. Now I do my own and being a machinist helps.
Another company that has helped me with parts and information is Steer and Gear in Columbus Ohio, www.steerandgear.com.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#7
When I looked into it, the best option for me (haven't bought one yet) was rockauto.com; a Lares Manufacturing, there is both standard(183.79) and quick ratio(239.99) available. There is a $200 core charge. Remanufactured in the USA.

Brett
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#8
(10-22-2019, 01:05 PM)72Mach168Cam Wrote: When I looked into it, the best option for me (haven't bought one yet) was rockauto.com; a Lares Manufacturing, there is both standard(183.79) and quick ratio(239.99) available. There is a $200 core charge. Remanufactured in the USA.
 A good price for sure, but on the Lares 806, it does NOT say if it's standard ratio or variable ratio, so I'd guess standard with 4 turns LTL. Still not terrible, but will be a lot softer feel when driving. The input torque rod will be smaller than in a VR, therefore lees effort to steer the car. If you're good with that, go for it. While at it, order a Lares 201 coupler.
Good luck with it,
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#9
Lares 806 is the constant ratio box - 4 turns.

I ran across a post where another guy was quoted $284 for a rebuild and fast ratio conversion last year by www.powersteering.com


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#10
Variable ratio vs 12.7:1 quick ratio is personal preference.  I have 12.7:1.



If I were in your shoes I would call up the different rebuild shops and have a conversation with them. 

The thing I would talk to the steering shop about is if they offer T-bar upgrades.



Sure- quick ratio is cool- but a larger T-bar is what is going to give you steering feel and feedback like a modern car.



Below is a picture of what I am talking about.  Basically the T-bar is a torsion spring that connects your steering column to the ballscrew inside the steering box.  The smaller it is, the easier it deflects.  Smaller T-bars offer very little feedback to the driver, and give that “pinky finger” over assisted feeling to your steering.



Getting a competent steering shop to swap it out to a .210” or larger is going to give you a much more modern steering feel and give you better feedback.



My box is 12.7:1 with a .210” T-bar.  It feels
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-090...x-upgrade/
[Image: A6-C21980-6-D00-4-F51-99-D3-BEC88-D81-AFDC.png]
I
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