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Starting engine build, which block do I use?
#11
So where's the best place to find a CC 4V head? I see a few on eBay, but seems like it would be hard to trust someone on a part like that as far as cracks, condition, etc.
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#12
I have a pair of stripped castings, 4v Open Chamber heads. No cracks, no bad threads, no damage-I pulled them off while the engine was running perfectly. If you want to go that route, I'll make you a good deal.

With the proper pistons, Open Chamber heads perform quite well.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#13
The engine shop has a source for some 4V CC heads and the guy wants $450 for the set and is throwing in a matching stock intake manifold (Though I probably won't use it). He is also suggesting this cam: 214/224 @ .050 duration and .510/.536 lift, hydraulic lifters. The car is an auto w/ C6 trans and I will be keeping stock wheels/tires for at least a few years. Any feedback is appreciated.
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#14
If the valves in those heads are the stock multi-groove style, they are worthless and should be discarded.

SalmonTex, before you proceed any further... what are you prepared to spend on this engine rebuild?

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
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#15
As MotoArts said, you are buying the heads as cores. You won't re-use anything other than the heads. As far as the cam is concerned, what are your goals for the car? What gear, what convertor, etc.. Chuck
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#16
c9zx;205261 Wrote:As MotoArts said, you are buying the heads as cores. You won't re-use anything other than the heads. As far as the cam is concerned, what are your goals for the car? What gear, what convertor, etc.. Chuck

Not sure about the gears. I know it has the stock C6 trans and will be having a friend rebuild that next, so my options are open. I'm still catching up on my research of the engine, haven't made it to the trans yet. Until now I wasn't planning to modify the trans from stock, but I'm guessing if increasing power, it only makes sense to adjust the gearing accordingly.

Motoarts, i want to build it right as I plan to drive the car regularly and keep it long term, so I'm prepared to pay for quality parts and labor. I have considered a crate engine, but I would much prefer to keep this a Cleveland-powered car. Based on initial estimates from the engine shop, I'm looking at $2.5-3k all in not including the 4v cores.
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#17
Here's the deal with the heads... and I guess the rest of the build as far as it's concerned... strictly in my opinion.

There are many, many options available when building engines.
And opinions far outweigh these options...
My opinion is that those CC heads are priced a bit stiff, especially if they are stock and untouched. I normally see good cores selling in the 250-300 range.
Your quote from the builder seems to be on par with what should be expected, so that's good.

I do almost all of my own work, so keep that in mind.
I have read many times that people (can) get nearly as deep in a set of stock heads than a set of modern, ready to use alloy heads as far as cost is concerned. Yes, even though I provide my own labor, I can believe the figures that I see.
Cleveland parts often times are more expensive than the sea of Windsor stuff floating around, so don't get confused, surprised or discouraged.

Do be careful, educate yourself, and weigh your need-versus-want baskets often Smile For a street engine, I feel that there are a lot of machining steps and extensive parts lists that are "suggested or recommended", and not really "needed".

Have fun with it, we'll be watching your progress!

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
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#18
The cam sounds like it is a Lunati cam. Assuming it is ground on a 112 Lobe Separation Angle, it should work fine for a mild build with a 3.50:1 gear and stock 351 CJ convertor. Do some reading on Static vs Dynamic Compression Ratio and oiling modifications before you finalize parts selection. Good luck on the build. Chuck
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#19
That is almost exactly the same cam as mine. With 3.50 gears, it is a kick in the pants to drive.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#20
Thanks for the responses. I forgot to mention that nearly $600 of that engine build can be attributed to the roller rocker conversion ($320 labor & $250 parts). I asked him to give me a cost for the conversion, but is not something that I'm convinced one way or the other yet. The Crane conversion kit w/ the 5/16" studs would save me about $200, and sticking w/ stock steel pedestal rockers saves me about $500. Any input there would be helpful as well, though I'm sure that's a topic that has been covered pretty thoroughly, and ultimately is something that I need to decide if it is a "needed" or "recommended" upgrade.

As for the cam, it's actually a 107 degree lobe separation angle.

Maybe it's because I'm new to auto restoration projects, but it just doesn't feel right to me to throw on modern aluminum heads. I'm still struggling with the idea of not using the stock intake manifold.Smile I'm more interested in restoring the car than simply gaining performance for the lowest possible cost.
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