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Starter and a lot of smoke
#1
Been driving the car a lot since the weather changed with no issues. Today when I went to put it in the garage. I started it up and the starter made a loud clunk noise. I tried again and another clunk noise and then a lot of smoke. I disconnected the battery and the cable and battery where very warm. I have owned the car for 6 years and have replaced all the cables and the solenoid.

Could it be anything thing else other they the starter??? Any recommendation for a inexpensive starter ? I was planning on having some upholstery work done so I need to keep this repair under control if possible.


John J
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#2
https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/fo...d0001.html
The guys that have them love em.
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#3
(05-13-2018, 10:39 PM)Canted 393 Wrote: https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/fo...d0001.html
The guys that have them love em.

I do! Still works great. I made a blog post of the install:
- http://vincentmustang.blogspot.nl/2016/1...arter.html
[+] 1 user Likes Vinnie's post
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#4
(05-14-2018, 01:09 AM)Vinnie Wrote:
(05-13-2018, 10:39 PM)Canted 393 Wrote: https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/fo...d0001.html
The guys that have them love em.

I do! Still works great. I made a blog post of the install:
- http://vincentmustang.blogspot.nl/2016/1...arter.html

Nice write up Vinnie!   That's on my to-do list when my starter dies.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#5
I need a better description of your symptoms. If I read correctly you went to start the car, you got a clunk, the engine did not turn over and the battery cables were very warm.

If this is correct then the power was going to the starter. If it was not turning over the engine then either the starter is bad or the engine is seized. You need to verify that the engine will turn freely. Take a breaker bar and socket to the crank and see if you can move the engine in either direction. It will take a bit of force but not a lot.

One possible situation is coolant leaked into a cylinder that was on the compression stroke. I would check the coolant level, I would also pull the spark plugs of the two cylinders that are on the compression stroke and verify there is no wetness. It sounds like a pain but is cheap insurance.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#6
Just sounds like your starter went out. I put a new one in for about 70 bucks I think. Wish I would have known about the mini starter, might have given that a try for how cheap it is. Good luck and hope that’s all that is wrong.

run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
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#7
Make sure the starter bolts are tight too

Gas is for cleaning parts, alcohol is for drinkin, nitro is for racin
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#8
Thanks for the feedback. Will I able be able to reach the starter with the car on jack stands. My car has 14 inch wheels on it and sits petty low.



John J
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#9
yeah, getting to the starter isn't too bad. Loosen up the top and harder to get to bolt first. It's a bit easier if the bottom bolt still has the starter torqued down.
Again, my advice, unless you see something obviously wrong with the starter, turn the engine over by hand. Check the spark plugs. If there is coolant leaking into a cylinder and you get the engine to fire up you can do a lot of damage. I know this sounds 'dramatic' but a leaking head gasket is much easier to deal with compared to broken rods or cylinder walls.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#10
Failure is likely caused by the brushes dust creating shorts.

But @Will e is right, make sure its not smoking trying too hard because engine isn't able to rotate.
Just want to add a detail. In case you do not have a dynamometric ratchet/torque tool, make sure you do this after you removed all spark plugs.
On an healthy engine with plugs in, if you try rotate both directions using the crankshaft lock nut, you may actually loosen it and will need to set back to proper torque, while with plugs out and engine cold, rotating the engine gently will not.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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