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Start/stick/batt issue
Went to start the 72 the other day and it cranked real slow and didn't have enough juice to turn over, optima red top is 8 months old and has only started the car maybe 20 times.
Well I suspected I had a paracitic draw, but didn't show anything on my dvom. So I charged the battery, and checked it while I had it connected to the car (cables) I checked it one day later and it was down half a volt. Same thing the next day. So I charged it back up, and left it disconnected in the car. Checked the voltage a day later and same thing a half a volt lower. So I may have a battery that crapped out and won't hold a charge. When I cranked it over today it didn't have enough juice again but when I let off the key from the start position it kept cranking (keys in my hand) so I ran back and pulled the neg cable off. I gave the start solenoid a smack thinking it was sticking. I charged her back up and she fired like it usually does.. Any ideas? Its just a parts store shelf brand solenoid, powermaster starter....

72 Mach-1 12:1 532 Forged internal Scat stroker, Kaase P51 heads, Comp roller cam, March serpentine conversion, C6 manual VB, 9'' 4:33:1.
66 convertible 289, 82k miles.
Sounds like a bad solenoid to me.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
I think you need to have that battery load tested. any place that sells batteries will do it for free.
check the batt's fluid levels? i know they will do some weird things when a cell dries up.......it does sound like a solenoid too.

one more thing....when you start it and run it for a while...kill it..and touch the cable runing too your solenoid from the starter and see if its hot....some times a starter can ground out inside..and go bad...mine did...the cable was toast too...it kept acting like it was out of power..and would turn over really slow after i drove around and got it warmed up....but once i let it sit and cool off..it would start normal like it had a million volts.....but soon as i drove it around and killed it at a gas station..it would act like it was out of power...even know it wasnt....i would have to wait like 15 minutes before i could start it again..lol
Sounds like the solenoid to me.I would also check the small wires going to the soliniod.I have seen these get hot and melt. I am sure it is probably just a bad soliniod though.They will go bad just sitting.

[Image: 16kuyc0.jpg]
+1 on getting it load tested. If the battery is disconnected and it's losing charge I don't think it's the solenoid.

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
+3 on change the solenoid. What voltage does the battery read after it has been charged and sat for a few hours? Chuck
I say change both out
Do yourself a favor and please change the battery to a Interstate or Exide. Optima batteries are acceptable on a daily driven car, but will fail on a vehicle that sits. The main difference between an Optima and a standard battery is that instead of rows of lead plates, the Optima has spiral plates that are rolled like a AA battery. The advantage in theory is that they will discharge slower, however they also charge slower. They need to be charged on a reactive charger with a 5 amp MAX because they are sealed and cannot vent and will internally boil. If a red top goes below 10.5 volts even once it is rare that it can be revived without a proper charger. The yellow/blue top can be discharged several times before it is irreversibly damaged. This is the only charger that I have used that can revive a discharged Optima or Odyssey battery: http://www.interacter.com/Ps_page.html. I have had mine for about 11 years and use it at my shop 2-3 times a week. Not cheap though. If your car still has the original type voltage regulator you may want to swap it out. They can intermittently latch on and cause a 2-3 amp draw. Definitely change the solenoid too.
Is there a company that makes a good one?
Should I get a ford one? I hate off brand parts store junk. I'm going to get that battery tested this week also. I havnt tested it after a few hours, just overnight. I have an optima in my brono daily driver and it was always so trustworthy, even in the - 30s it can get to here. Ill be looking into an exide ive had good luck with them in the past also ...Thanks for the quick replies

72 Mach-1 12:1 532 Forged internal Scat stroker, Kaase P51 heads, Comp roller cam, March serpentine conversion, C6 manual VB, 9'' 4:33:1.
66 convertible 289, 82k miles.
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