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Stage 8 header bolts
#1
Often times when people post about headers and such I always recommend the 'stage 8' header bolts. I got my first set well before the internet and, 'unfortunatly', I ordered the wrong bolts the first time (too short). This actually turned out to be a blessing since the extra retainers and cams come in handy if one 'disappears'. Anyways, they are a big PITA to install, it took me about 3 hours to put the retainers and clips on today, I had to modify a couple of them. The same is true when you need to take them off, a good pick set helps but the retainers are a pain to get off and the cam things can be pushed up pretty good againt the header tubes. It will add some time to the normal removal time but I can say, without hesitation, this is worth the extra effort.

So how do they work? It's a three piece system. A special bolt, a cam looking thing and a retainer. The bolt has a groove cut into it that allows the retainer to clip on. Here are some pics:

[Image: P1010354.jpg]

The cam goes on the head of the bolt. They are indexed just slightly off being straight so if you flip them over they point in a slightly different direction. This allows some flexibility in installation.

[Image: P1010355.jpg]


So the trick is, you put the cam thing on and then the retainer, after you torque down the bolts. The cam thing keep them from backing out and the clip keeps the cam thing in place.

[Image: P1010353.jpg]

When you go to install them, if the cam doesn't connect with the pipe, you can flip it and see if that works better. Sometimes you have to 'modify' the cam and grind a little off of the came if there isn't much clearence between the bolt and pipe A mirror helps to get you a visual on how much the bolt will be allowed to turn before it is stopped. The cam is pretty soft aluminum so a little bit of bending works too. Sometimes I found it helpful to take a wrench and kind of 'push' the cam into place.

Here is a shot of some installed.
[Image: P1010350.jpg]
You have to keep in mind the direction the bolt will try to loosen.


These things work. I know some of you will say you never had a problem with header bolts coming out. Good for you. Wink But I always have had problems until I found these bolts. The extra installation and removal time is worth the funcationality.

Now for some key words for searches: hooker 6915 competition super competition

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
  Reply
#2
will e;100489 Wrote:Often times when people post about headers and such I always recommend the 'stage 8' header bolts. I got my first set well before the internet and, 'unfortunatly', I ordered the wrong bolts the first time (too short). This actually turned out to be a blessing since the extra retainers and cams come in handy if one 'disappears'. Anyways, they are a big PITA to install, it took me about 3 hours to put the retainers and clips on today, I had to modify a couple of them. The same is true when you need to take them off, a good pick set helps but the retainers are a pain to get off and the cam things can be pushed up pretty good againt the header tubes. It will add some time to the normal removal time but I can say, without hesitation, this is worth the extra effort.

So how do they work? It's a three piece system. A special bolt, a cam looking thing and a retainer. The bolt has a groove cut into it that allows the retainer to clip on. Here are some pics:

The cam goes on the head of the bolt. They are indexed just slightly off being straight so if you flip them over they point in a slightly different direction. This allows some flexibility in installation.

So the trick is, you put the cam thing on and then the retainer, after you torque down the bolts. The cam thing keep them from backing out and the clip keeps the cam thing in place.

When you go to install them, if the cam doesn't connect with the pipe, you can flip it and see if that works better. Sometimes you have to 'modify' the cam and grind a little off of the came if there isn't much clearence between the bolt and pipe A mirror helps to get you a visual on how much the bolt will be allowed to turn before it is stopped. The cam is pretty soft aluminum so a little bit of bending works too. Sometimes I found it helpful to take a wrench and kind of 'push' the cam into place.

Here is a shot of some installed.

You have to keep in mind the direction the bolt will try to unloosen.

These things work. I know some of you will say you never had a problem with header bolts coming out. Good for you. Wink But I always have had problems until I found these bolts. The extra installation and removal time is worth the funcationality.

Now for some key words for searches: hooker 6915 competition super competition

Great tips! I looked them up and found them at Summit. The only thing is that when I tried to figure out which ones I need it narrowed it down to two versions. One with the shorter bolts like you mention and the other with longer bolts. I am using the Ceramic competition headers and have a 351C. Do you know which one I should be using? Here are links to the two I found.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/stg-89.../make/ford

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/stg-89.../make/ford

Thanks,

John
  Reply
#3
jhawk635;160551 Wrote:
will e;100489 Wrote:Often times when people post about headers and such I always recommend the 'stage 8' header bolts. I got my first set well before the internet and, 'unfortunatly', I ordered the wrong bolts the first time (too short). This actually turned out to be a blessing since the extra retainers and cams come in handy if one 'disappears'. Anyways, they are a big PITA to install, it took me about 3 hours to put the retainers and clips on today, I had to modify a couple of them. The same is true when you need to take them off, a good pick set helps but the retainers are a pain to get off and the cam things can be pushed up pretty good againt the header tubes. It will add some time to the normal removal time but I can say, without hesitation, this is worth the extra effort.

So how do they work? It's a three piece system. A special bolt, a cam looking thing and a retainer. The bolt has a groove cut into it that allows the retainer to clip on. Here are some pics:

The cam goes on the head of the bolt. They are indexed just slightly off being straight so if you flip them over they point in a slightly different direction. This allows some flexibility in installation.

So the trick is, you put the cam thing on and then the retainer, after you torque down the bolts. The cam thing keep them from backing out and the clip keeps the cam thing in place.

When you go to install them, if the cam doesn't connect with the pipe, you can flip it and see if that works better. Sometimes you have to 'modify' the cam and grind a little off of the came if there isn't much clearence between the bolt and pipe A mirror helps to get you a visual on how much the bolt will be allowed to turn before it is stopped. The cam is pretty soft aluminum so a little bit of bending works too. Sometimes I found it helpful to take a wrench and kind of 'push' the cam into place.

Here is a shot of some installed.

You have to keep in mind the direction the bolt will try to unloosen.

These things work. I know some of you will say you never had a problem with header bolts coming out. Good for you. Wink But I always have had problems until I found these bolts. The extra installation and removal time is worth the funcationality.

Now for some key words for searches: hooker 6915 competition super competition

Great tips! I looked them up and found them at Summit. The only thing is that when I tried to figure out which ones I need it narrowed it down to two versions. One with the shorter bolts like you mention and the other with longer bolts. I am using the Ceramic competition headers and have a 351C. Do you know which one I should be using? Here are links to the two I found.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/stg-89.../make/ford

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/stg-89.../make/ford

Thanks,

John

I have the same header engine combination and I needed the longer bolts.
-jbojo

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#4
jbojo;160559 Wrote:I have the same header engine combination and I needed the longer bolts.
-jbojo

Do you remember the length? I'm finding that they actually carry them in 3/4", 1", and 1 1/4". Summit carries the short and medium length but others actually carry the even longer bolt. Funny thing is all three say they are compatible with the 351C.

Never mind...I got this brilliant idea Idea - go measure the bolts that came with your Hooker headers, dummy! Anyway, they are 1" bolts, so that should work. And just for the record so are the collector bolts. I'm thinking I might as well use the stage 8 bolts on them as well. Definitely beats having leaks in the future and changing them, etc...

Thanks,

John
  Reply
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