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sports instrument panel upgrade and 1/4 mile
#1
Hi Guys,
This is technically my second topic post. I am just trying to gather as much info as I can before my mach 1 arrives.
Before i start I just want to thank everyone with my NASA hood enquiries. I gathered quite a bit of info and in the end I found a local DYNACORN dealer in Aus who can source this part for me on their next container. Only 15 min from where I work. Bonus!!

Anyway here are my 2 questions.
1. Unfortunatley my mach 1 does not have the sports dash/instrument cluster. No tacho or 3 x centre guages. This may have been covered before but has anyone updated their instrument cluster to the sports type with the tacho and the three centre gauges.
Is there any wiring issues doing this or can it be done. Whats the best way?

2. A link on wikipedia mentions that the 302 2v V8 is actually quicker to 60mph and over the 1/4 mile than a 351 2v v8.
This is due to the extra weight the 351 versions have to carry apparently. over 100kg extra weight.
Is that myth or does it have some merit.

Regards
AUSMACH1
  Reply
#2
You'll need a different engine compartment wiring harness for the gauges due to the tach, oil, temp and voltage. That has the correct connections on the dash and at the alternator.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
  Reply
#3
If you want to go original, then as Mark said in his post above.

If you want an easy and quick installation for a tacho then go for a Rocketman tacho which uses a standard idiot light core as a base for a modern tacho and factory-looking dial. This option lets you keep your idiot lights which is a good thing:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-rocke...=rocketman

For the instruments you could buy a new centre bezel with the instrument holes built in and populate it with some aftermarket gauges:

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy0...=71CDPA+01

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy0...=71CDPG+01

Also, if you are pulling the instrument cluster out to add a tacho, consider putting LED dash lights in at the same time (if it doesn't already) as the stock globes are pretty useless at night.

Brett
[Image: stangprofile3.jpg]
  Reply
#4
ausmach1;105008 Wrote:Hi Guys,
This is technically my second topic post. I am just trying to gather as much info as I can before my mach 1 arrives.
Before i start I just want to thank everyone with my NASA hood enquiries. I gathered quite a bit of info and in the end I found a local DYNACORN dealer in Aus who can source this part for me on their next container. Only 15 min from where I work. Bonus!!

Anyway here are my 2 questions.
1. Unfortunatley my mach 1 does not have the sports dash/instrument cluster. No tacho or 3 x centre guages. This may have been covered before but has anyone updated their instrument cluster to the sports type with the tacho and the three centre gauges.
Is there any wiring issues doing this or can it be done. Whats the best way?

2. A link on wikipedia mentions that the 302 2v V8 is actually quicker to 60mph and over the 1/4 mile than a 351 2v v8.
This is due to the extra weight the 351 versions have to carry apparently. over 100kg extra weight.
Is that myth or does it have some merit.

Regards
AUSMACH1

HI Aus,
Glad you're sorting out the hood issue. If you don't mind me asking, what sort of money will you be paying to have the hood container'd to you in Melbourne? (That's part plus shipping combined)

Ahhhhhh yes, the old where's my sports gauge pak question, and what am i going to do to set it up. A lot has been discussed about this topic on the forum site before, and a lot of good advice offered. I myself am going through the same deal right now. Going the genuine Ford parts way is one way, but is expensive and can be a big ordeal. I'm going the aftermarket parts way because of cost and trouble. Send me an E-Mail if you want more info from me.

As to the speed thing between donks, the acid test would be Dyno and or drag i guess.Confused

Keep on rockin'

GregSmile

whistling LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED
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#5
Thanks Guys,
Your information is priceless.
I love the Rocketman assy you used Flatback.
For me that looks about perfect and what I would consider a factory finish.
This will be one of my first jobs along with the NASA HOOD.
Then I hopefully can enjoy the car for a while and then tackle the centre console gauges.
Out of curiosity Flatback was this a day job or more to remove the cluster place the new tacho guage and hook up the wiring.
I assume the tacho works from the coil pack signal line.

Regards
AUSMACH1
  Reply
#6
ausmach1;105008 Wrote:2. A link on wikipedia mentions that the 302 2v V8 is actually quicker to 60mph and over the 1/4 mile than a 351 2v v8.
This is due to the extra weight the 351 versions have to carry apparently. over 100kg extra weight.
Is that myth or does it have some merit.

Regards
AUSMACH1

Sounds like crap. A 351C is only about 100 pounds heavier than a 302. Not to mention it makes more horsepower and torque.

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.
  Reply
#7
ausmach1;105099 Wrote:Thanks Guys,
Your information is priceless.
I love the Rocketman assy you used Flatback.
For me that looks about perfect and what I would consider a factory finish.
This will be one of my first jobs along with the NASA HOOD.
Then I hopefully can enjoy the car for a while and then tackle the centre console gauges.
Out of curiosity Flatback was this a day job or more to remove the cluster place the new tacho guage and hook up the wiring.
I assume the tacho works from the coil pack signal line.

Regards
AUSMACH1

Now that I've done it a few times I reckon I could take the cluster out and put it back in in less than 30 minutes.

Going from memory, cluster removal consists of:

Two screws to remove plastic lower steering column shroud.
A couple of screws to remove dash side cover.
Some screws on the instrument panel fascia.
Lowering of the steering column is necessary for fascia and instrument removal so remove three of the four nuts from under the column, and loosen the forth nut almost all the way to the end of the thread so the column lowers without becoming completely unfastened.
Reach under the dash an unclip the speedo cable (push on the plastic retaining tab and the cable end will slide right out with a pull), then squeeze both sides of the instrument electrical cable plug which will then slide out of the instrument cluster.
Four hex-head screws on the cluster and the cluster should pull straight out.
Swapping out the idiot light core consists of removing the instrument globes, carefully fold back the printed circuit, and undoing four screws to remove the core.

Rocketman tacho is a simple three wire affair. One to an earth, one to a positive on the fusebox (a circuit that cuts off when the key is turned off), and the third to the positive on the coil. I don't believe that Mustangs ordered without a tacho have a signal line, but in either case I believe the Rocketman tacho third wire will work with both setups.

I'd guess that it would be around a three hour job if doing it for the first time.

Brett
[Image: stangprofile3.jpg]
  Reply
#8
Flatback72;105331 Wrote:
ausmach1;105099 Wrote:Thanks Guys,
Your information is priceless.
I love the Rocketman assy you used Flatback.
For me that looks about perfect and what I would consider a factory finish.
This will be one of my first jobs along with the NASA HOOD.
Then I hopefully can enjoy the car for a while and then tackle the centre console gauges.
Out of curiosity Flatback was this a day job or more to remove the cluster place the new tacho guage and hook up the wiring.
I assume the tacho works from the coil pack signal line.

Regards
AUSMACH1

Now that I've done it a few times I reckon I could take the cluster out and put it back in in less than 30 minutes.

Going from memory, cluster removal consists of:

Two screws to remove plastic lower steering column shroud.
A couple of screws to remove dash side cover.
Some screws on the instrument panel fascia.
Lowering of the steering column is necessary for fascia and instrument removal so remove three of the four nuts from under the column, and loosen the forth nut almost all the way to the end of the thread so the column lowers without becoming completely unfastened.
Reach under the dash an unclip the speedo cable (push on the plastic retaining tab and the cable end will slide right out with a pull), then squeeze both sides of the instrument electrical cable plug which will then slide out of the instrument cluster.
Four hex-head screws on the cluster and the cluster should pull straight out.
Swapping out the idiot light core consists of removing the instrument globes, carefully fold back the printed circuit, and undoing four screws to remove the core.

Rocketman tacho is a simple three wire affair. One to an earth, one to a positive on the fusebox (a circuit that cuts off when the key is turned off), and the third to the positive on the coil. I don't believe that Mustangs ordered without a tacho have a signal line, but in either case I believe the Rocketman tacho third wire will work with both setups.

I'd guess that it would be around a three hour job if doing it for the first time.

Thanks heaps Flatback.
I will refer to this info when i perform the job.
Sounds good and well described by yourself.
Thats hope when the car arrives all is well and i fall in love with it and keep in the family for a long time to come.
Will keep you posted.
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