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Something's wrong
#41
runninpony 
(10-16-2018, 01:55 PM)Don C Wrote: Make sure that little bare ground wire is in place and connected in the distributor, from one of the screws on the points to the distributor base. If not, the points won't provide a ground to the coil to charge the primary side of the coil. When the points are closed you should get 6 to 8 volts on the coil positive terminal and 12+ when the points are open.

Bare wire is in place and tight, I have a Pertronix module that's been in the car for at least 25 years.
I've got 12 Volts to the positive side of the coil and measure 12 Volts on negative side too. Last time  I drove the car was 3 years ago and she ran fine.

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#42
See if the voltage fluctuates on the negative coil terminal while cranking. If the Pertronix is working it will switch from ground to open as the distributor cam/sensor turns.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#43
runninpony 
(10-16-2018, 05:59 PM)Don C Wrote: See if the voltage fluctuates on the negative coil terminal while cranking. If the Pertronix is working it will switch from ground to open as the distributor cam/sensor turns.

Yes Don, voltage fluctuates while cranking! I'll have to leave it be for now or I'll go nuts and focus on other things around the car, it's my therapy  Tongue

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#44
Looked specs for pertronix coil flame thrower, they have lower resistances
Most doc I've found is average 1.5 Ohms on primary (+ and - on testMeter) , 10.6k Ohms on secondary. ( -pole and output pole on testmeter)
Their own specs
http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/pdf/pt..._coils.pdf

Even with some fluctuations, you should be fine. I recall you dismantled the dist. Next in line to break the circuit would be the small wire on the dist plate. if there, I'd loosen the small screws a bit and screw them back a few time to ensure you have a good connection. I'd brush the rotor top, and check poles on the cap.

If you run a pertronix, make sure the distance stays equal when plate rotates using their provided spacer (or use a 1mm thick piece of whatever). I've seen on my autolite dist that if I would have installed the pertronix following their drawing, it would fail on this dist, because the top plate doesn't rotate from center of the dist. Once under vacuum, it would be too near, potentially touching the shaft at low rpm, and too far away at higher.

Assuming you have unbroken wires, correct firing order set on dist to cyls and proper gap at (dry) plug, 0.045/1.1mm, cyl 1 aligned on crank pulley 0-10 deg, you should make some noise, even if you are off by a full rotation, you would get back fires. If again really nothing, then there is something else at play, but that's not the ignition.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#45
One of these spark checkers will show whether or not you're getting spark to the spark plugs.
https://www.harborfreight.com/in-line-sp...63590.html



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#46
runninpony 
UPDATE! I got my engine running and boy, does she sound great and healthy. A few months back I mentioned I had fuel, spark etc. and the engine even back fired once. But little did I know! I know now my 26 year old Pertronix 1 module had crapped out. I ordered a new Pertronix 1 but it was on back order, so I waited for a month, then called and was told it'll be another month, so I cancelled the sale and got one from another source. Installed the new unit and she fired right up. Oh HAPPY DAY!! Timing was right on the nose too LOL 

Thankyouyellow to everyone for any help!

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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