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Something's wrong
#31
runninpony 
(10-08-2018, 03:50 PM)73pony Wrote: Both valves closed on the compression stroke. The exhaust valve is open on the exhaust stroke. I would recommend a breaker bar on the crank instead of the starter method. Much more accurate. The other way to tell is putting your thumb tightly over the spark plug hole while turning. You will feel it build pressure on the compression stroke.

Another possibility would be to double check your plug wires are in correct firing order. Remember there were 2 different firing orders for the 302. Earlier was 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 and later was 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Make sure you are using the correct firing order for the cam that your engine builder installed.

Firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Spark plug cables are numbered and are connected to the corresponding spark plugs/cylinders.
How do you feel it building pressure and turn the engine at the same time?

Also, when I had #1 plug out my kid turned the key and gasoline mist was coming out the hole.

Thanks for all the help, I'll have to wait for next weekend to have a few friends (car guys) come over.

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#32
It'll also blow mist out on the exhaust stroke, path of least resistance, but won't have any pressure.

Thumb of the left hand in the spark plug hole, crank it with the right. If you can see the timing marks clearly you don't have to plug the spark plug hole until you see the marks moving towards the timing pointer.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#33
(10-08-2018, 06:41 PM)Don C Wrote: It'll also blow mist out on the exhaust stroke, path of least resistance, but won't have any pressure.

Thumb of the left hand in the spark plug hole, crank it with the right. If you can see the timing marks clearly you don't have to plug the spark plug hole until you see the marks moving towards the timing pointer.

+1. Also have you verified that firing order with your engine builder or the cam card? Firing order is based on the cam and there are two different ones for 302’s. The cams are interchangeable between the older and newer 302 blocks so be 100% sure.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#34
runninpony 
Thanks guys for all your technical support! I will have to wait until at least Sunday which is my Saturday. I cranked it a few times I hope I haven't hurt too much without it firing! I'll keep you posted.

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#35
runninpony 
My buddies were all busy and didn't have time to come by to help me start my motor last weekend. So I asked my son for help...we got cyl#1 at TDC on compression stroke, both valves closed and rotor pointing at #1 mark on Dizzy. We got air,fuel,spark and full battery. I used to have 6 Volts at the coil positive, now I've got 12 Volts. And not only that, there's 12 Volts on the negative side of the coil someone told me this is normal since as soon as the engine turns that goes to ground?! So we cranked it over a few good times and still nothing, not even backfiring! I GIVE UP! For now that is, concentrating on other things with the car.

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#36
How goes the cranking? I mean, the engine turns but does it turns relatively fast and easy?

Also if you test with a multimeter, remove all wires from coil. set to 20k-ohm, place the red wire of the meter to the plus pole of the coil, and the black wire
to center (where the plug wire to dist is). You should get more than 11. ideally 13 something. If you are bellow, your coil secondary is having a resistance, and even at right timing, spark will be too weak to ignite anything.

Another test, after you cranked, if you remove any plug, is there any smel of fuel on it, even wet?

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#37
runninpony 
(10-16-2018, 06:26 AM)Fabrice Wrote: How goes the cranking? I mean, the engine turns but does it turns relatively fast and easy?

Also if you test with a multimeter, remove all wires from coil. set to 20k-ohm, place the red wire of the meter to the plus pole of the coil, and the black wire
to center (where the plug wire to dist is). You should get more than 11. ideally 13 something. If you are bellow, your coil secondary is having a resistance, and even at right timing, spark will be too weak to ignite anything.

Another test, after you cranked, if you remove any plug, is there any smel of fuel on it, even wet?

I will do the coil test when I get home tonight. I took all the plugs out yesterday they were slightly wet and yes, I have fuel smell as soon as I walk into the garage! Thanks Fabrice!

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#38
If there are wet, which is good after your cranked a few time, before try again, make sure they are dry. I got issues with my EFI at first install, I did test the unit without cranking first to test the electrics not knowing it was priming. The throttle blades were also too closed (too rich) and after I did follow how to do a proper TPS setup/reset, even done by the book: still nothing. Lost hours retesting all ignition. Turns out the plugs were still wet from first attempts and simply needed be dried first. Fired right up after that.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#39
Make sure that little bare ground wire is in place and connected in the distributor, from one of the screws on the points to the distributor base. If not, the points won't provide a ground to the coil to charge the primary side of the coil. When the points are closed you should get 6 to 8 volts on the coil positive terminal and 12+ when the points are open.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#40
runninpony 
(10-16-2018, 06:26 AM)Fabrice Wrote: How goes the cranking? I mean, the engine turns but does it turns relatively fast and easy?

Also if you test with a multimeter, remove all wires from coil. set to 20k-ohm, place the red wire of the meter to the plus pole of the coil, and the black wire
to center (where the plug wire to dist is). You should get more than 11. ideally 13 something. If you are bellow, your coil secondary is having a resistance, and even at right timing, spark will be too weak to ignite anything.

Another test, after you cranked, if you remove any plug, is there any smel of fuel on it, even wet?
Tested the coil with multimeter at 20k ohm and measured 9.5
It's a brand new pertronix coil, like I said I give up for now and focus on something else.
I won't be cranking this motor anymore until I can figure out what the problem is.

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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