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Softball size hole in top of fender
#1
Ok... I have a softball size hole in the top of the front drivers side fender. It was there when I bought it. I want to save the fender, for financial reasons, but am at a loss to how to do that. I do not know how to weld, so I was hoping to figure out a way to fix it without welding. I heard I can use high strength 3M bonding glue to glue a piece of sheet metal under it and use body filler over that. I believe the hole is too big for mesh. Any suggestions would be GREATLY welcomed. The rest of the car looks pretty easy to smooth out. Just this one problem area. This is my first shot at body work. So I lay myself before the forum gurus for wisdom. I added a photo to show the hole. There is really no other bad spots. VERY little rust anywhere.


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#2
Ouch, I would look for a used fender before trying the others that you mentioned.
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#3
Man I hate to say it because your strapped for cash but cut your losses and find another fender, I'll bet there is things going on behind that fender you can't see.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - edelbrock rpm fuel pump - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 3.50 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#4
An expert body man might be able to save it. Someone without experience doesn't stand a chance. The only way to really do it is weld in a replacement piece of metal. Not an easy task at all. You will be better off waiting and looking for a used fender in good shape.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#5
Sounds like we are all giving you the same advice...

A used fender is my suggestion too. I'd be concerned that if you tried to fix this it would be forever causing you issues.
Used (73 for you) fenders are still available and affordable if you're willing to look.

Best of luck.

Ray

1971 Boss 351  
1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 
1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 
1973 Mach 1 (parts car)
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#6
JrGeorge,
I have a Left Fender available for $75.00 + shipping from 07419 if you want to go in that direction.
Let me know.
Thanks, Jay
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#7
^ this is probably your best option. If you think about it, you would have to buy all the products + your time to restore that fender - could cost as much as a used fender.
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#8
Even without welding I could make that fender look good temporily{using fiberglass and bondo} but it wouldn't last long. That used fender mentioned sounds like a good deal and would be much better off in the long run.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - edelbrock rpm fuel pump - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 3.50 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#9
I suppose the consensus is total fender replacement. I would hate to shell out thousands of dollars for a paint job only to have it constantly causing an issue. Oh well.heres to dreaming. Cleavlandcoupe, i may take you up on that offer. I will have to calculate shipping to 47172. Thank you everyone for the advice.
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#10
Good decision! I completely understand building a car within a budget. In my opinion the biggest cost control in a budget build is to do it once and be done with it. When you get that fender off I'm sure you will find other issues that will make you happy you went that direction.

Good luck with your car!

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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