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So, here we go....
#1
   
   
   

OK, I didn't pull the fenders, but did at least remove the right front tire. I didn't see anything scary or interesting, but took a few pics anyway. If any of you see anything scary or interesting in them, especially related to frame damage, PLEASE let me know.

OK, so I'm now officially doing the project. Might as well start with the suspension since the car's off the ground, eh? I know have motor and tranny stuff ahead, but cosmetically I'm in very good shape. So, since I have to replace the ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, move up to a 1" sway bar, shocks, etc. should I go ahead and replace the upper and lower control arms, and even the springs since I'm doing the tear down anyway? It's probably another $350 or so, and I'm not made of money, but what do you suggest?

I'm not gonna race her, maybe put her in a small show or two, and teach Burnouts 101 at the local community college. LOL

Please ignore safety issues in pics. I'm headed down to get jack stands right now.

Also, I'll reduce the bit size of future pics for everyone that doesn't have a T3, which includes me!

Doc
Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#2
I've seen worse on my Coupe project! LOL Plus you have front discs! I don't think you can go wrong unless you find some really bad mojo under those fenders...
[Image: 1gq8uo.png]
1971 Mach 1 - 306cid/C4 Bright Yellow
1972 Coupe - 306cid/C4 Gold Glow (in restoration phase)
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#3
(08-07-2010, 10:19 PM)rocketfoot Wrote: I've seen worse on my Coupe project! LOL Plus you have front discs! I don't think you can go wrong unless you find some really bad mojo under those fenders...

Dang! You and those fenders! Exclamation

I'm worried that once I take them off, I won't be able get things lined up right again. It's kind of like I want to learn to swim, so I head down to the shallow end of the pool and say "I'm going to wade in here and see how the water is." And you say "Take that dumb life preserver off and jump off the high dive, ya jack wagon!" (I got the jack wagon thing from the GEICO commercial).

Anyway, I guess I might as well do it. I've already got seam alignment issues, so what can it hurt? When I get them off, I'll send a couple pictures. Hold my life vest for me, will ya?

Doc
Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#4
I would go a head replace what I could afford to. Its alot easier while you have everything apart. If your replacing ball joints then you will probably be replacing your upper and lower control arm as most ball joints are rivited to the control arm,also with the upper you will get a new control arm shaft. I know it starts adding up money wise , but once its done you don't have to worry about it. . Its not that hard once you dive in to it and I am sure there is plenty of help on here if you get in a bind.
Jay
73 mach1
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#5
Haha, You can leave the fenders on if you like, I really think you'll be fine under there...but for me, I like to know exactly what I have to work with! It looks like you're in great shape! Keep us posted! Cool
[Image: 1gq8uo.png]
1971 Mach 1 - 306cid/C4 Bright Yellow
1972 Coupe - 306cid/C4 Gold Glow (in restoration phase)
  Reply
#6
I see you are "on it", Doc!

I agree with Jay (73 MACH I) in that you should replace those "well-used" front suspension parts while you are on that part of the car.

I have found that by "working" the car in "systems", I am more able to focus on the really important parts for that system. In the long run, it will probably be less expensive. Several of the mustang parts places have "kits" (Mustang Plus comes to mind) that are a pretty good deal. OMS (our site sponsor) may also be competitive in this area.

Again, I am glad to see you apparently decided to "take the plunge" and I believe you are in for some GREAT times (along with some aggravation)!

Keep the faith!

BT
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#7
Thanks for the tips and encouragement, everyone.

Now, time to get off here and grab a wrench. I'll keep you posted, of course.

Doc
Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#8
I'd pull the fenders-- 71 to 73s seem to suffer from rust where the fender aprons overlap the shock tower and the extention panel near the windshield. I welded in patches in all these areas and sealed the seams.

On alignment--be careful and record where the shims are--how many are in each place. Dont take the hood off--use it as a reference point.
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#9
Thanks, Tomahawk. I'll keep those things in mind as I work through the front suspension.

Doc
Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#10
(08-15-2010, 09:40 AM)73vertproject Wrote: Thanks, Tomahawk. I'll keep those things in mind as I work through the front suspension.

Doc

NP--I dont know if youve got a 100 point trailer queen or a good driver--I've known people to drill tiny cheater holes front and back next to bolt holes--big enough to stick something into them (nail or awl tip) to line the fender back up. I"ve done it with hoods but never fenders.
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