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Slowest resto ever - Project AmsterFoose
#31
The deadener I believe 7173 is referring to is the sprayed in foam/adhesive that is applied to the under hood panel prior to it being bonded to the top hood panel. This is done to keep the panels separated and avoid metal on metal contact and the rattling sound from that. If this bonding material is gone, you will know it driving down the road and the hood top skin will flex up and down and you will probably hear some metal rattling sounds when you close it. You may need to look into this a little deeper and find out from your dipper if his process removes that (I would think so) and if there is a way to reapply some solution for it being gone.

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
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#32
(03-04-2019, 12:51 PM)bkdunha Wrote: The deadener I believe  7173 is referring to is the sprayed in foam/adhesive that is applied to the under hood panel prior to it being bonded to the top hood panel.  This is done to keep the panels separated and avoid metal on metal contact and the rattling sound from that.  If this bonding material is gone, you will know it driving down the road and the hood top skin will flex up and down and you will probably hear some metal rattling sounds when you close it.  You may need to look into this a little deeper and find out from your dipper if his process removes that (I would think so) and if there is a way to reapply some solution for it being gone.

For the body, are there many "isolation spots" done this way?
On the hood from what I saw, I don't think there would be much efforts involved to re-isolate it, easy access too. I guess same could apply for doors and deck lid.
but for the body, I have no idea.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#33
You can buy a expanding foam from a builders merchant. You would need to purchase a longer piece of tubing to get right into the end. Its not a motor industry solution but worth consideration. Theres also a Canadian breathable expanding foam used to insulate roof spaces but that will be tougher to get hold of. If you do use the expanding foam be careful as it expands massively.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIX-FILL-EXPANDING-FOAM-FILLER-500ml-EVERBUILD-QUICK-SETTING-FILLS-GAPS-NEW/181297396687?epid=10011036322&hash=item2a362abbcf:g:ZHkAAMXQVERSzElS:rk:10:pf:0

Steve
1971 Grandé
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#34
(03-04-2019, 01:17 PM)Pegleg Wrote: You can buy a expanding foam from a builders merchant. You would need to purchase a longer piece of tubing to get right into the end. Its not a motor industry solution but worth consideration. Theres also a Canadian breathable expanding foam used to insulate roof spaces but that will be tougher to get hold of. If you do use the expanding foam be careful as it expands massively.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIX-FILL-EXPANDING-FOAM-FILLER-500ml-EVERBUILD-QUICK-SETTING-FILLS-GAPS-NEW/181297396687?epid=10011036322&hash=item2a362abbcf:g:ZHkAAMXQVERSzElS:rk:10:pf:0

Isn't that Poly URethane foam (PUR)? It isolates, is real sticky and becomes solid in little time?

I only found black adhesive patches of about an inch in diameter. I removed the ones I could get to before I started my vinegar adventure because there was rust underneath. The ones I removed shouldn't be too hard to replace. That said, I think the first of the three baths in this dipping process also dissolves those adhesive patches.
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#35
(03-04-2019, 03:07 PM)Vinnie Wrote:
(03-04-2019, 01:17 PM)Pegleg Wrote: You can buy a expanding foam from a builders merchant. You would need to purchase a longer piece of tubing to get right into the end. Its not a motor industry solution but worth consideration. Theres also a Canadian breathable expanding foam used to insulate roof spaces but that will be tougher to get hold of. If you do use the expanding foam be careful as it expands massively.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIX-FILL-EXPANDING-FOAM-FILLER-500ml-EVERBUILD-QUICK-SETTING-FILLS-GAPS-NEW/181297396687?epid=10011036322&hash=item2a362abbcf:g:ZHkAAMXQVERSzElS:rk:10:pf:0

Isn't that Poly URethane foam (PUR)? It isolates, is real sticky and becomes solid in little time?

I only found black adhesive patches of about an inch in diameter. I removed the ones I could get to before I started my vinegar adventure because there was rust underneath. The ones I removed shouldn't be too hard to replace. That said, I think the first of the three baths in this dipping process also dissolves those adhesive patches.

Yes Vinnie it comes out the can sticky and expands massively and sets hard. Once hard it can be cut with a knife to remove any excess

Steve
1971 Grandé
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#36
Well my Mustang is doing this topic proud by not allowing me to unscrew the rear bumper...

Start:

[Image: 1adb30ad1c3eec31be042d3960c4420d.jpg]

Removing the lights was fun coz the rubber is glued to the rusty metal...

[Image: cb9c3fd6dd3c95aca63c128e15638c8b.jpg]

[Image: 240246d3c0628ca2559c46dd8d426c7d.jpg]

But when removing the bumper, the very last screw became a pita. The nut is kept from spinning by a rectangular plate that it’s stuck into. That plate broke though and the nut popped loose. Also the nut is totally stuck on the screw. I thought I’d try to use my angle grinder to cut it only to find out that my angle grinder which I have only used once about 6 years ago is completely dead. Yay! Another excuse to buy a new tool.

[Image: 058c0b87d0be3ce241cecbb6ae1551e9.jpg]

So I gave up for now and get me a new grinder. Oh and a big 11/16 wrench. That will fit the nut too. In my collection of non metric tools it’s one of the few missing ones...

[Image: 5c62ce74865f1fb177fef84eed62ae2e.jpg]

Too be continued...
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#37
The beauty of having SAE and metric is sometimes a socket or wrench from the other set can get a grip on hardware that is slightly rounded or even rusted. Might need a hammer...

Any chance your old grinder has a reset switch it circuit breaker? I have a cutoff tool that quit the first time and it had the reset button hidden under the cord on the back end, really kind of hard to see.
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#38
A nut splitter can be very handy, especially when there's not much room to get a grinder to it.
https://www.amazon.com/Steelgrip-2265015-Nut-Splitter-Piece/dp/B003MQIVZA/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3JCQH7L2LY0GL&keywords=nut+splitter+tool&qid=1552858474&s=hi&sprefix=nut+splitt%2Cgarden%2C720&sr=1-4

I wouldn't throw your angle grinder away. I assume it's electric. I would guess it's got a brush stuck and not contacting the commutator. Most electric tools have access for removing the brushes without having to dismantle it.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#39
Mmh, I’d have to have another look but I don’t think there is a reset anything. Thanks for the idea though!
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#40
Oh! Missed the nut splitter idea while I was replying, great idea and looks real easy. And I have the feeling I’ll be getting quite some milage out of it while disassembling ;-)
That’s gonna be interesting! Thanks Don!
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