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Sloppy steering
#11
I saw a statement about the rag joint being different for Tilt column. Mine has the pins, all 4 of them do. The column does not tilt anywhere but at the upper part. The Ford Chassis manual shows the same joint for both but also shows a special tool that is .150" inserted in to put the correct spacing between the part on the shaft and the part on the box for the tilt column only.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#12
The rag joint is the same, but both sides of the coupler are different, neither has provisions for engaging the pins. The upper coupler bolts to the column shaft. The lower has a different diameter and spline count.

Posts #5 & 6 in this thread shows both sides of the coupler, post #1 shows the end of the steering column shaft?



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#13
Tightening the selector shaft adjustment screw didn’t buy me anything so I ordered a rag joint.  Stay tuned.

[Image: FE177109-A1-C8-4-A6-C-9224-AACCFD66-C3-C9.png]

Rick Bombard
1971 Grabber Green Mach 1 351C 4V
2013 Race Red California Special Convertible
1973 Medium Copper Metallic Convertible 302 4V     SOLD
1953 F-100 project

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#14
I would also check the pitman arm as jpaz said earlier. Look for play between the pitman arm and center link
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#15
(08-13-2019, 06:55 PM)71mach351 Wrote: Tightening the selector shaft adjustment screw didn’t buy me anything so I ordered a rag joint.  Stay tuned.
Hope you ordered the correct one. If no tilt column, use the Lares 201 from Rock Auto, best price great service

I learn something new every day!
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#16
Hope you didn't order the Scott Drake one.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#17
(08-13-2019, 06:55 PM)71mach351 Wrote: Tightening the selector shaft adjustment screw didn’t buy me anything so I ordered a rag joint.  Stay tuned.
I thought you said it was ok?. When they go bad you will see a tear in the rubber and when moving the steering back and forth a bit you can really tell. It may have even just come loose some. I had to rebuild mine with the help parts stuff. Hopefully it is bad, cause it is the cheapest to replace. Good luck!

run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
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#18
(08-14-2019, 07:25 AM)73pony Wrote: Hope you didn't order the Scott Drake one.
 If he did, he'll regret it.

I learn something new every day!
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#19
Stanglover Wrote:
73pony Wrote:Hope you didn't order the Scott Drake one.
 If he did, he'll regret it.
I sure did. What a waste of money.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#20
I would get a lucky volunteer to wiggle the steering wheel back and forth while you take a long look at the rag joint, pitman arm, tie rod ends, ball joints etc.

Doing that before you start adjusting the sector shaft or throwing parts at it would be advised.
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