• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
should I or not
#1
First rust bullet is enroute. The pics are the fender the holes are the ones that go all the way around the inside where u can add that Chrome from the other is a picture of scratches u can feel but very light.
The question I have is should I feel the holes with filler or leave them alone, I will never put the Chrome on them and I am thinking about filling the the.holes where the little mustang word goes on the side.

Second question should I just epoxy over the scratches and see if they go away or fill them with glaze, since from what I am hearing I have to glaze over all body filler anyways.

Do I have that right Scott, a small layer over filler to make sure it is smooth and pretty. Double checking still along way off but don't hurt to double check what I think. I did this wrong a long time ago and now paying for it. Should I spray only the inside with rust or maybe both I want to see what u guys think


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
       

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
  Reply
#2
I believe you epoxy over the bare metal then add filler.


Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#3
Hey Russ if you are not going to put letters back on i would recommend getting one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/welding-spoon-66785.html [Image: 24yxmqc.jpg] and then break out the welder and fill them in , later on done the road the filler may break loose leaving you with the holes in your body work , I would glaze the scratches if they are not to deep . But i would let Scott chime in on that one ,it has been a while since i have done a lot of body work and i am still reading up to refresh myself with anything i may have forgotten Plus i am stealing all of Scotts ideas and suggestions he throws up here as well

[Image: 2zdx09d.png]
Yea,Tho i cruise through the valley of the shadow of rice,I will fear no Turbo,For Torque art with me.Thy rods and crankshaft,they comfort me. Big Grin Robert
  Reply
#4
Okay I am also getting close to getting that gun out, the issue is I cannot seem to get all of the primer back off some seems tougher than others, you can see the metal around areas and it is not a low spot but dont know if it should be straight metal or a little primer will not hurt. I started ripping all that crud off the inside of the fender and getting closer.

My da and orbital seem to be going throw paper like none other, dont know if it is me or what but it only seems to work for about 5 minutes then I have to get another one to really get it off. oh well it is what it is.

I will be getting back on to start another post about prep ready, must make sure before I put this down everything else is right or I will not ever take this primer back off, knock on wood.

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
  Reply
#5
thundertc64;63474 Wrote:Hey Russ if you are not going to put letters back on i would recommend getting one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/welding-spoon-66785.html [Image: 24yxmqc.jpg] and then break out the welder and fill them in , later on done the road the filler may break loose leaving you with the holes in your body work , I would glaze the scratches if they are not to deep . But i would let Scott chime in on that one ,it has been a while since i have done a lot of body work and i am still reading up to refresh myself with anything i may have forgotten Plus i am stealing all of Scotts ideas and suggestions he throws up here as well
X2 Need to fill any holes now with above spoon as a backer behind the hole Then mig..then smooth..you can not fill holes with bondo & expect it to last..Ok last time.. 80 grit to bare metal..southern polyurethanes water borne wax & grease..1 hour dry time..epoxy prime..(epoxy doesn't fill ) under 7 days just put filler..If it sits longer than 7 days then rough up with 180 before applying filler.. shape etc..finish coat of poly glaze..seal body work with epoxy..once the entire car is done..Then scuff with 180..Apply 2k primer..block..then paint..or seal with reduced epoxy then paint..All the instructions are on southern polyurethanes web site & they have it on their tech sheets too
Also slow down your d.a. slow is fast when it comes to sand paper...
rentascout;63464 Wrote:First rust bullet is enroute. The pics are the fender the holes are the ones that go all the way around the inside where u can add that Chrome from the other is a picture of scratches u can feel but very light.
The question I have is should I feel the holes with filler or leave them alone, I will never put the Chrome on them and I am thinking about filling the the.holes where the little mustang word goes on the side.

Second question should I just epoxy over the scratches and see if they go away or fill them with glaze, since from what I am hearing I have to glaze over all body filler anyways.

Do I have that right Scott, a small layer over filler to make sure it is smooth and pretty. Double checking still along way off but don't hurt to double check what I think. I did this wrong a long time ago and now paying for it. Should I spray only the inside with rust or maybe both I want to see what u guys think
Your first picture of the 80 grit scratches is PERFECT PREP for epoxy !!!!!


LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
  Reply
#6
Well I got it sanded fenders anyways starting on the back. Most areas are bare but still a little primer in some. I think I keep at it to make sure its right. Scott what is point if the 2k? Thanks

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
  Reply
Share Thread:  




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)