• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Shock tower apron extensions
#1
Steel strip welded to  shock tower  and radiator support lays underneath the front engine bay side panel aprons at the top[Image: 20190716-204435.jpg]
[url=https://ibb.co/vZfwSMc][/url]
  Reply
#2
You need to go back and let everyone know who you are and what you are working on, do an introduction. 
About any of the mustang supply shops will have them. You can get just the front section of the inner fender or you can get the full frame rail with the inner fenders and shock tower in place. Dynacorn is the mfg. of most of the 71 - 73 body chassis parts. 
If you have not checked your cowl you should. If the inner fenders are gone the cowl will be also. Leaking cowl is what rusts out the front floor pans. 
When doing panel replacement you need to have some sort of jig to hold the body in position to properly keep everything in alignment. If you do not you will end up with some poor fitting outter sheet metal.
All of the components have locator holes in them used at the assembly line to accurately locate them in the body. You need to be able to measure them and get them right before doing much welding. 
There are many failed restores out there where they body just got all out of whack because not enough care was taken.
Here is a link to a shop that does only panel replacement and not body work. You can see some of the fixtures they use. By no means as good as factory but better than just hanging out in air. https://www.graverobberssheetmetal.com/
I do have some measurements from tooling holes for the front end of the car I have attached. The repo panels may not have the same locator holes in them that the factory had.
You can see how you do some cross measurements to insure the front end is square. To do a really good job you should have taken the car to a frame shop before starting to have the chassis put back to original specs. These bodies are very weak in a rust free shape but after years of rust loose a big percentage of their strength so they flex even more. 
Never jack up the front of the car using the front cross member. Only jack, lift and support where Ford suggest in their shop manuals. You can get the manuals on DVD or printed.
Just take lots of measurements and never weld anything in solid until you get everything in position then jump around with your welds so not to overheat anything.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
                   

.pdf   73_Mustang_Inner_Fender_Measurements.pdf (Size: 329.47 KB / Downloads: 9)
.pdf   IMG_0001.pdf (Size: 329.83 KB / Downloads: 8)


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
[+] 1 user Likes Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs's post
  Reply
#3
That part is not being sold as a new repro part
[+] 1 user Likes OMS's post
  Reply
#4
If you still have both sides, clean them up and use them.

If you need a pair, I have them  PM me.  As OMS said, they are not being reproduced.  I searched all over, paid dearly for a set then ended up using my originals.

kcmash
[+] 1 user Likes kcmash's post
  Reply
#5
(07-17-2019, 07:08 PM)kcmash Wrote: If you still have both sides, clean them up and use them.

If you need a pair, I have them  PM me.  As OMS said, they are not being reproduced.  I searched all over, paid dearly for a set then ended up using my originals.

kcmash
Will hit em with the hand grinder and emery disk then see how they look and decide to patch or replace. Thxs
  Reply
#6
One of the cars I bought had the inner replaced there must be some out there? 
If they make and sell these where do they get the inner panels from?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/71-73-Mustang-F...63353c795a

They are $42.00 each on ebay here is link.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1971-1973-F...SwWXhcsES7


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
  Reply
#7
(07-17-2019, 09:22 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: You need to go back and let everyone know who you are and what you are working on, do an introduction. 
About any of the mustang supply shops will have them. You can get just the front section of the inner fender or you can get the full frame rail with the inner fenders and shock tower in place. Dynacorn is the mfg. of most of the 71 - 73 body chassis parts. 
If you have not checked your cowl you should. If the inner fenders are gone the cowl will be also. Leaking cowl is what rusts out the front floor pans. 
When doing panel replacement you need to have some sort of jig to hold the body in position to properly keep everything in alignment. If you do not you will end up with some poor fitting outter sheet metal.
All of the components have locator holes in them used at the assembly line to accurately locate them in the body. You need to be able to measure them and get them right before doing much welding. 
There are many failed restores out there where they body just got all out of whack because not enough care was taken.
Here is a link to a shop that does only panel replacement and not body work. You can see some of the fixtures they use. By no means as good as factory but better than just hanging out in air. https://www.graverobberssheetmetal.com/
I do have some measurements from tooling holes for the front end of the car I have attached. The repo panels may not have the same locator holes in them that the factory had.
You can see how you do some cross measurements to insure the front end is square. To do a really good job you should have taken the car to a frame shop before starting to have the chassis put back to original specs. These bodies are very weak in a rust free shape but after years of rust loose a big percentage of their strength so they flex even more. 
Never jack up the front of the car using the front cross member. Only jack, lift and support where Ford suggest in their shop manuals. You can get the manuals on DVD or printed.
Just take lots of measurements and never weld anything in solid until you get everything in position then jump around with your welds so not to overheat anything.

Great info here.
I've got my driver side fender off and doing some metal straightening from previous collision to the lower front corner and valance panel. 
Since I began, I've been spending a whole lot of time just studying over all frame work and panels. I find little kinks and bends in places that reveal the direction of the impact and flow of force against the metal sections and how each part absorbed it. Painstaking to get it all back where it belongs.

Since reading your post, I've began to find those locator holes and have been taking measurements. I bought a replacement fender and valance panel and have them both out being primed and painted, I sure don't want to be fighting alignment issues do to misalignments in the car.

I also had to buy a passenger side fender apron due to the big rust hole from the battery. I'll be starting on that job pretty quick. That's a pretty big piece of metal that interconnects to a lot of other structural frame parts. Can't afford to get that back together wrong either.
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Battery apron replaced....fender mounting holes? cwalker509 22 861 11-10-2019, 08:24 PM
Last Post: HOTY65
  Battery Tray Apron Support WINNER Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs 36 5,052 10-05-2019, 08:47 PM
Last Post: 72Mach168Cam
  Shock tower upper control arm not straight Robsweden 2 324 05-08-2019, 07:14 AM
Last Post: Robsweden
  Front apron/radiator support help needed slowpoke17 3 496 12-17-2018, 08:38 PM
Last Post: slowpoke17
runninpony rear fender apron NOT A T5 3 863 09-28-2017, 07:48 AM
Last Post: Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)