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Shell info.
Ive been looking for a shell donor for my 71. I think I found one just a few concerns. Really only needs a drivers quarter. It’s had new complete shock tower aprons both sides cowl, and core support installed. My concern is how would I know it’s on straight without having everything put back on it?
Any tips or other things to look for is appreciated.

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The only way to know if chassis is right is to take to a frame shop and have them hang the gauges on it and measure. I have gone to look at several failed builds and after spending some time looking at the panel replacement turned away. More work than starting from scratch.
I am currently working on a 72 Q vert that has had floors patched, trunk floor and both quarters replaced. I am cutting the floors back out and doing over and cutting both quarters off and doing over. If it was just an H code I would just sell but since a Q I will suffer the extra work.
Lots of new parts does not make it a deal for sure.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
[+] 1 user Likes Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs's post
That’s kind of what I’m afraid of. He only wants 2k for it though. Has good doors and new hood.

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the the q code really make it that much more valuable?
The Q code has the Cobra Jet 351C 4V 4 bolt engine. The H code has a 351C 2V 2 bolt block.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
Use the chassis dimensional diagram in the Ford shop manual and make some measurements. You can also take dims off your current car if it's straight. If it only had the aprons, rad support and cowl replaced, and shows no signs of impact damage, you'll probably be okay. A pretty good indication of if the car is bent is the tower to cowl braces. If the bolts line up okay, the towers are probably where they should be.

David is correct, if you want to be 100% certain, put it on a rack.

I was just curious as to the value of the q code. mine is a Q and I have had it apart and verified those.
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