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Seized distributor
#1
Tore down the period correct two barrel going into the 72 this weekend. In all the engine is not in that bad of shape for sitting for six years. The one problem I do have is that the distributor is siezed in its bore. I would like to save the distributor as it is a date correct dual vaccum unit. Has anyone had any luck with getting one unstuck without damage? I have been soaking it with PB Blaster for two days now.

A friend has recommended heat. I applied a small propane torch for sweating pipes, but no luck. He has a MAP gas torch we might apply next. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
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#2
bkdunha;85877 Wrote:Tore down the period correct two barrel going into the 72 this weekend. In all the engine is not in that bad of shape for sitting for six years. The one problem I do have is that the distributor is siezed in its bore. I would like to save the distributor as it is a date correct dual vaccum unit. Has anyone had any luck with getting one unstuck without damage? I have been soaking it with PB Blaster for two days now.

A friend has recommended heat. I applied a small propane torch for sweating pipes, but no luck. He has a MAP gas torch we might apply next. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Put it in an oven on low & keep a close eye on it..The oven will heat the entire unit evenly

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#3
The whole engine block? I dont think my oven is that big, plus the misses would kill me. Is this something a machine shop can do?

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
  Reply
#4
The distributor is stuck in the block?
Wet a wash cloth in ice water and wrap around the base of distributor to keep it cool, heat the area around where it enters the block and let cool, then apply more cold to the entire area and twist back and forth pulling up at he same time. may have to do this several times to complete...expansion and contraction will loosen it
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#5
Soak the area real well with PB Blaster or similar for a couple of days before doing the ice/heat method.
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#6
Can you remove the oil pump, and take the oil pump drive (remove the locking washer), put it back into the distributor and hammer it out from the bottom?
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#7
Have a read of this thread, from a fella with the same problem...

http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.ph...#msg173352
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#8
Mine was also stuck and had to beat it out with a hammer as the last resort. Good luck
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#9
pegasus;85907 Wrote:Have a read of this thread, from a fella with the same problem...

http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.ph...#msg173352

Pegasus,
Thank you for the link. Must admit took a minute for the translation to catch-up on this, but I am going to give this one a try.

Posting on other FORUM:
Looking for some suggestions, my mechanic tells me my timing is too advanced (about 7 degrees out he reckons)

problem is, we can't shift the dizzy on my cleveland 351, damm thing is jammed solid...

Am hearing good things about a 50/50 acetone/ATF mix as a penetrating lubricant, but wondering if there are any other recommendations

Short of stripping the front end and getting the timing cover off to get at it from underneath...am running out of great ideas to move it...

RESULTS:
Thanks to all who made suggestions...I went with the acetone and ATF fluid mix (had both in the house already).

Left it to soak for nearly 2 weeks and then got a pipe wrench onto the dizzy shaft and did the old back and forth as suggested....shifted it with very little effort in the end

Got the timing sorted today as well, so she's purring along beautifully


Looks like this method worked for this person so I will give it a shot.

To answers the others recommendations. I have the block completely stripped except for this darn distributor and the cam. The cam bearings hit the distributor gear so that will have to wait until the distributor is out. I tried getting to the bottom of the distributor housing through the bottom end of the block, but it does not go past the cam gear. The only part you can hit on below the cam gear is the distributor shaft and I am concerned about driving that too hard and breaking the casting of the distributor.

If this soaking method does not work I will probably go with the hot cold cycle next. If no luck it will probably go to to the machine shop with the heads to see if they can get it out without breaking.

Keep the suggestions flowing though. Looks like I am going to let it soak for the rest of the week.

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
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#10
ah yes the acetone and trans fluid mix, i forgot about that, it sometimes works, worth a shot.

you could also get a brass hammer,, they use it for gunsmiths, it prevents marring of the soft metal surface. you could also try a rubber hammer, keep tapping around the distributor as you tap grab the top and keep trying to add twisting force. I know one buddy of mine got desperate and he clamped a pipe on to the distributor top and twisted.
it destroyed the distributor, but he got the dame thing out, then bought a referb replacement and returned his wrecked one for the core refund.

I wrecked my original distributor as well but from other things and just bought a referb as well.
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