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Seeking Rust Repair Advice
#1
Alright, so I think I've got my mechanical systems all squared away well enough that I want to address the little bit of rust that my car has before it has a chance to become a real problem. I'm going to just post a TON of pictures and ask your guys' thoughts on the best way to go about fixing it all.

My thoughts are thus:
Get the rear quarter panel fills for just the rear lower portion behind the tire
Manually patch the little bits of rust infront of the rear tire
New tail light valence panel
New trunk lid (the steel one)
Try and find a donor car that I can cut the trunk seal bits I need out of
Possibly need to replace a portion of the trunk to address the little bit of rot around the filler

What do you guys think?
You like my 1994 Ford Ranger Rims? Pretty Stylish lol

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2013 Ford Focus SE Flex Fuel 5spd - Daily Driver
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#2
I have never seen a Mustang rear bumper with the rub guard across it like that.

[Image: 2zem9nk.jpg]
Iyman
1972 Mustang convertible run_horse  
Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Facebook Page

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Web Page

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#3
"I have never seen a Mustang rear bumper with the rub guard across it like that".

IMUSA...his car has the option of deluxe bumper group. That included the complete horizontal rub strips. My car has the same.

Mech...DONT throw away that bumper, you need to straighten and re-chrome it because they don't make them for the rub strips.

Jeff
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#4
jeff8877;129569 Wrote:"I have never seen a Mustang rear bumper with the rub guard across it like that".

IMUSA...his car has the option of deluxe bumper group. That included the complete horizontal rub strips. My car has the same.

Mech...DONT throw away that bumper, you need to straighten and re-chrome it because they don't make them for the rub strips.

Jeff

I remembered a recent posting of a Marti report by 73 Coberly Mach 1

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-73-coberly-mach-1

The report for his 73 Mach 1 mentions the "bumper rubs strips":

Your vehicle was ordered with the following features:
NASA Hood (Non-functional)
TuTone Hood Paint
California Emission Testing
FMX Cruise-O-Matic Transmission
F70x14 Belted Raised White Letter Tires
Convenience Group
Power Steering
Sport Deck Rear Seat
Console
Power Front Disc Brakes
Bumper Rub Strips
Air Conditioner - Selectaire
AM/FM Stereo Radio
Interior Décor Group
Tinted Glass Complete
Kevin Marti
Your car was actually produced on March 1, 1973 -- ten days behind schedule.

Ray

1971 Boss 351  
1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 
1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 
1973 Mach 1 (parts car)
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#5
+1 do not throw out the bumper. you can also use it as a guide to transfer parts and metal cutouts to the repop rear chrome bumper or have it straightened. deluxe bumpers are super rare.

as for the rust. it will get involved but you can get almost everything repop.

ditch the trunk lid for a new one, save time.
sheetmetal: taillight panel, drop downs, trunk, quarters lower patches, outter wheel well pieces. for the trunk seal you may just need to fabricate a U channel and tack it in then weld it solid. it will be covered with rubber and sealant so doesn't have to be perfect.

it will be a pretty big project the fuel tank is going to need to come out. you may need to tack in some Square stock inside the trunk to support the roof when you cut into the quarters. because I'm betting the outer wheel well piece is going to be eaten away.

when you cut the taillight panel out, then inspect the trunk floor. if you need a full patch, you have to put it in before you attach the tail panel because the floor panel will not fit as a once piece through the trunk opening you have to slid it in from where the tail panel goes.

Watch out for brackets and re-enforcement doubled up metal because the repops don't have them and you need to transfer them to the new metal. I would throw out nothing until everything is welded in.

you may have to cut the lower outer rockers and have a look inside and see if the rott is extensive in the front of the wheel well.
That usually extends to the B pillars at the lower door corners also below the vents.
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#6
72HCODE;129576 Wrote:+1 do not throw out the bumper. you can also use it as a guide to transfer parts and metal cutouts to the repop rear chrome bumper or have it straightened. deluxe bumpers are super rare.

as for the rust. it will get involved but you can get almost everything repop.

ditch the trunk lid for a new one, save time.
sheetmetal: taillight panel, drop downs, trunk, quarters lower patches, outter wheel well pieces. for the trunk seal you may just need to fabricate a U channel and tack it in then weld it solid. it will be covered with rubber and sealant so doesn't have to be perfect.

it will be a pretty big project the fuel tank is going to need to come out. you may need to tack in some Square stock inside the trunk to support the roof when you cut into the quarters. because I'm betting the outer wheel well piece is going to be eaten away.

when you cut the taillight panel out, then inspect the trunk floor. if you need a full patch, you have to put it in before you attach the tail panel because the floor panel will not fit as a once piece through the trunk opening you have to slid it in from where the tail panel goes.

Watch out for brackets and re-enforcement doubled up metal because the repops don't have them and you need to transfer them to the new metal. I would throw out nothing until everything is welded in.

you may have to cut the lower outer rockers and have a look inside and see if the rott is extensive in the front of the wheel well.
That usually extends to the B pillars at the lower door corners also below the vents.


This is what I'm talking about! Wonderful advice. A big thumbs up to all you guys. I didn't realize the bumper was that rare, I'll have to search around for a place that can straighten it back out for me and possibly rechrome it as well.

I was already planning on dropping the gas tank, I need to inspect the inside of it for varnish and my fuel level sending unit doesn't work, so I need a new one of those.

The trunk floor aside from the one spot near the fuel neck seems really solid, all the way up to where it meets the tail light panel, but once I get that out of there I'll know better for sure.

As far as in front of the rear wheels, the rust seems pretty minimal, the B pillars are very sound and show no signs of rust, lower rockers also look really good, I may cut out a larger section that what I know has rust just to be sure there are no surprises hiding. I'd rather play it safe now, then regret it in a few years when it comes back to get me.

I'm guessing the overall suggestion is to get ALL the parts needed for the rust repair in hand before starting anything, that way there's minimal chance for lost/missed parts?

I'm a decent welder, MIG, Stick, and Oxy-Acetylene (Not really relevant to this kind of work) is there a type of wire that you recommend? I assume MIG is the best for thin sheet metal like this, I've dealt mostly with more structural steel type welding.

What's the best place to go for the repop panels?

Boss1Ray;129572 Wrote:
jeff8877;129569 Wrote:"I have never seen a Mustang rear bumper with the rub guard across it like that".

IMUSA...his car has the option of deluxe bumper group. That included the complete horizontal rub strips. My car has the same.

Mech...DONT throw away that bumper, you need to straighten and re-chrome it because they don't make them for the rub strips.

Jeff

I remembered a recent posting of a Marti report by 73 Coberly Mach 1

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-73-coberly-mach-1

The report for his 73 Mach 1 mentions the "bumper rubs strips":

Your vehicle was ordered with the following features:
NASA Hood (Non-functional)
TuTone Hood Paint
California Emission Testing
FMX Cruise-O-Matic Transmission
F70x14 Belted Raised White Letter Tires
Convenience Group
Power Steering
Sport Deck Rear Seat
Console
Power Front Disc Brakes
Bumper Rub Strips
Air Conditioner - Selectaire
AM/FM Stereo Radio
Interior Décor Group
Tinted Glass Complete
Kevin Marti
Your car was actually produced on March 1, 1973 -- ten days behind schedule.

Ray

Jeff, do you know if I can get replacement rubber strips themselves?

Ray, that's my Marti Report Smile

2013 Ford Focus SE Flex Fuel 5spd - Daily Driver
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#7
Use easy grind 0.25 mig wire...

Your going to find more rust than what you see..

72H code pretty much nailed it...

Heres some pics of mine & the work I've done..give you an idea of whats involved to do it right..
http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n499...=slideshow

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#8
Qcode351mach;129609 Wrote:Use easy grind 0.25 mig wire...

Your going to find more rust than what you see..

72H code pretty much nailed it...

Heres some pics of mine & the work I've done..give you an idea of whats involved to do it right..
http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n499...=slideshow

Q is right " Your going to find more rust than what you see.."

and do check out Q's Pictures and videos they are great a reference.

[Image: 2zem9nk.jpg]
Iyman
1972 Mustang convertible run_horse  
Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Facebook Page

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Web Page

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#9
The biggest issue you will run across is panel warp on the quarters depending on how much you cut. Many guys start with a small cut, have to cut more then tack in the patch and when they complete the weld the panel warps sometimes badly. Before they know it they have to cut at the body line crease half way up and put a much larger patch in.

I personally suck as a welder, but I know some people buy a lap weld flange maker, because butting might be cleaner but more easy to warp a panel, so they bend a lap weld edge on the panel which gives the panel strength like a ridge and then pug weld spots and finish with bondo or go for a complete across the seem weld. The newest method is body panel glue. They run a bead of special adhesive and then compete the repair with bondo.

Sometimes depending on the cut the panel looses its tension and becomes easy to dent, so more people go for a larger patch that seems to minimize it, or they do a trick with dry ice on a panel to harden it back up and make a drum skin like tension. The concern is going to be more on the front arch repair then the back. I guess if you work either the front or back first complete it then move to the next area it will help the panel keep tension. Either way lots of body dolly hammering. Getting to the front of the quarter may be a problem from behind so I would also gutt the interior as well.


The repop panels have problems and NOS is expensive don't be afraid to reject patches you can buy 20 of them and each one will be different as far as curve shape and how it exited the stamper.

Dynacorn is the biggest but they mix up 1970 with 71-73 parts so you have to really compare a patch panel with the original. It has gotten better the last 10 years.
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#10
Item #D3ZZ-17830
73 REAR BUMPER CENTER RUBBER STRIP
Rubber center strip for rear bumper. Price: $67.95


Item #D3ZZ-17831
73 REAR BUMPER OUTER RUBBER STRIPS
Very nice rear bumper outer rubber strips with correct studs. Comes with mounting hardware. Reproduction. Price: $64.95

Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

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