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Seeking Help & Advice on Centre Guage Setup.
#31
I recommend using white face gage's as they are easier to read at night. I did one set in white and one in black. Ask Midlife if He has a replacement under dash wiring harness be fore cutting into the harness. A lot changes in the wiring color codes from 71 to 73.
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#32
Austin should stay with autometer center gauges, as the wiring needed for the conversion is much simpler and probably cheaper than going with the Ford system. Yeah, I'm losing business, but I'm already swamped!

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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#33
Mustruck;108353 Wrote:I recommend using white face gage's as they are easier to read at night. I did one set in white and one in black. Ask Midlife if He has a replacement under dash wiring harness be fore cutting into the harness. A lot changes in the wiring color codes from 71 to 73.

Hi Mus,

Thanks for your suggestion and advice. I know what you mean about the white face way, but i'll stick to black for now and see how i go.

GregSmile

midlife;108363 Wrote:Austin should stay with autometer center gauges, as the wiring needed for the conversion is much simpler and probably cheaper than going with the Ford system. Yeah, I'm losing business, but I'm already swamped!

Hi Midlife,

Many thanks for your advice and feedback. Staying with and using the Autometer gauges looks like the most practical and cost saving way to go with all the wiring issues etc, etc. My research gave me that impression as well.

All i need now is to mount them in the best practical and good looking way to the center dash bezel. I'm on it!.

I appreciate your help, advice and honesty on this one Sir.

Thanks, GregSmile

whistling LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED
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#34
Hi to All,

Just wanted to give all forum members my final update on setting up the three center gauges.The good news is, i've had a BIG WIN, and the end result looks fantastic. I am really pleased that they turned out so well.

Please be warned though, that the job is a precise, delicate, and time consuming process. I would have spent around about 30 hours on the setup in total. So when you stop and consider that, it would cost way too much money to pay a company to do the work for you. This is strictly a DIY job.

Given the finished result looks great and very original, i think it is worth the effort and time to go this way.As i said before in another thread, it's sad that we can't, as yet, buy any aftermarket three gauge products for the '71 - '73 Mustangs.

Briefly, my approach was to carefully remove the original clear plastic cover lenes by using a fine point tipped stone on a dremel and carefully tip grind the original little plastic studs that hold the lens down to position. / the pod comes apart easily into two sections, front face and back / using a Dremel style tool with a cylintrical shaped stone, you very carefully carve and shape out the fixed round plastic faces of the front pod. The plastic grinds away fairly easily and sands down smooth to a fine finish as required./ once that is done, the new Autometer gauges will be placed behind the face of the front pod. The new cut holes will not allow the new gauges to slide in from the front.The gauge bezels are too big for that. So the three gauges end up being nestled and lie snugly in the curved, cradled shape on the back face of the front pod.If you accidentally damage the silver cones of the front pod, a little sand and spray with silver metallic pressure pak brings them up like new.A little bit of Dremeling at the bottom of these cradles is necessary so the face of the gauge sits and engages properly with the back face of the front pod. I chose Designer Black gauges as they look classic and the chrome bezels are not too big. (Warnng! Other gauges may have bigger bezels and won't fit into the Ford pod.) MINE JUST MADE IT IN!

The next step is to carve, shape, grind and sand holes into the back pod, so the gauges can come through the back without restriction.The same cylintrical grinding stone also does a good job of this without much fuss./ My idea for clamping the gauges into position was to use a 'pressing down', back clamping action. This will hold the gauges very firmly without trouble./ Assembly is next. Using a powerfull glue like Sikaflex Adhesive & Sealer, glue the front and back pods together.The Sika goes all the way around the perimeter of the two pod halves. This process is a must because of the backwards force exerted on the front and back pod walls for clamping the gauges in. / Useing precut rigid metal connection strips i bought from my hardware store, cut and shape them to fit as the clamping brackets. The gauge of metal chosen, means they won't bend too easily and cause problems. /Carefully place gauges into pod through the back, align up and clamp up with nuts and washers. Screw on the circular thumb nuts that came with the gauges to complete.

To finish, you can choose to use or not the original lenes you removed. I chose to use them, as it gives a better finished original look.They will more than likely have to be polished because of age and wear and tear. Mine came up vey clear and fresh. I used 2pak cutting compound first by hand rub and soft cloth, then finished off with a vigorous rub with carnuba wax paste polish and a soft cloth.The polishing process took me about i hour to do, and the fine scratches and cloudiness of the lenes came out well. Glue them back into position with a dab of Sika on the mounting spikes to finish.

Well folks, that's basically it. I have a link to Photobucket, showing the finished results. (These pics will help explain what i've done, and show off the end result).When you visit Photobucket, click on any image to enlarge the image for better viewing.

Thank you to all members who contributed to this thread and gave their input with help, advice and photos. You were a great help to me and i appreciate that. So, problem solved and on to the next challenge!

Many thanks,

GregSmile

http://s1295.beta.photobucket.com/user/g...n/library/

whistling LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED
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#35
Great job Greg! Looks fantastic.

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Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#36
marks73;110943 Wrote:Great job Greg! Looks fantastic.

Thanks Mark,

Much appreciated!


GregSmile

whistling LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED
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#37
VERY nice Greg!!

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

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#38
droptop73;110973 Wrote:VERY nice Greg!!

Thanks Jeff !

GregSmile

whistling LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED
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#39
Yeah, that is nice. Much better than the job that was done on mine. Nice work, looks factorySmile
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#40
gpierce;110985 Wrote:Yeah, that is nice. Much better than the job that was done on mine. Nice work, looks factorySmile

Thanks for your kind words Greg.I guess it's always rewarding to see a project come out great especially when you put a lot of time, thought and effort into making it come together. Your help and input with photos was very much appreciated, and steered me in the right direction indeed.Thank you!

GregSmile

whistling LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED
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