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seat recover have a few questions
#1
I am in the process of recovering my seats and I have a few questions. I bought the seat kit from TMI and it looks like the fit is not quite right. I bought foam as well and the seat feels pretty firm now but you would not want to race with these because you would slide yourself out the door at some point. My questions

1. everything on the bottom lined up on the edges but the seat bottom is wider than the pattern on the back. Is this right, why isn't it centered or am I a dumbass. Could not find a side so I just grabbed one bottom and put it on.

2. looking at the driver seat, is this a seat from a different year and that is why my stuff does not seem to fit quite right?

3. How much can I expect to pay at a shop if I decide I don't like the end product when I am finished. The passenger seat is really firm now and springs are no longer felt.

4. What after market seats fit these cars that still look period correct?

5. Who has used dynamat under the carpit and how much does it quiet down the inside?

6. How is the dash board attached to the car. Mine is loose and rattles a lot. P.O. was not a very good mechanic from all the little problems I have found. Every thing he touched I get to retouch and do right.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
       

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.
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#2
That's interesting, I used the same kit and even though the upholstery fit was very tight everything lined up good. All I can answer for you is the last question; if you are talking about the dash pad and the metal dashboard there are some screws on the front edge of the dash that you take out; with those out, you give the dash a good yank towards you and then it lifts out. If you are talking about the 3 piece dash, you should get a shop manual and it will have all the screw locations.

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
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#3
TMI makes good stuff. Wrap some Saran wrap on the cushion and sprsy a little WD-40 on it to make the seat cover slide on easier. It also makes it easier to manhsndle the covers and foam around a bit to get a good fit. Once installed, just cut off the visible Saran wrap from under the sest cushion with a razor blade and no one will be none the wiser.
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#4
Kit's right - but I used plastic bags from a convenience store - and didn't need the WD40 (learned that trick from a recent article in Mustang Monthly, actually.

Mine fit pretty good, but have some slight wrinkles in similar places. I went with the Sport Seat kit for mine, so the foam was a little thicker (and probably a little less forgiving).

Yours still turned out nice! thumb Give 'em a little time in the sun, they should relax a bit.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#5
You should post a picture of the foam if you still have not installed the other seat. The back is so thought, I'm thinking it's the sport seat back on standard upholstery. The bottom seems to lack definition. I'd consider removing the passenger seat and reinstalling the cover. Also it helps if everything is warm. Put it in the sun for a half hour prior.
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#6
Here is a picture of the seat foam. The rear was a royal pain in the butt to get on, The seating area for my bottom not so much.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
       

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.
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#7
there should be 2 rods that run along the seam for the center area, looking at the seat left to right over the lower cushion, you have the left side template that is smooth, the center section that runs left to right and the right smooth template. 2 rods go right at the joint between the sections, these rods tuck down into the foam which has cut outs for the same area, that pulls the material into the foam. doing so will shrink the total width of the lower cushion and make it match the upper section. with the rods going deep into those areas you tightly hog ring them to the seat frame through the foam.
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#8
Having never used the TMI covers, I don't know how they're cut, but is the pattern characteristically off as in Ralph's photo? The pattern is cut too high by an inch or so, but it looks as if the cover is too short by an inch too, in comparison to an original:

[Image: 71_mustang_9.jpg]

It almost seems as if that missing inch is what's preventing the seat from wrapping around the bottom correctly.

-Kurt

[Image: satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png]
How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
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#9
Seat frame and not the springs. I put everything back the way I remember it a month or so ago. I will take the other one out and compare. I am reasonably sure the H shaped piece on the seat bottom is in correct and hog ringed down tight. They are anchored to the springs and not the frame. Will see tomorrow. This is another job that goes in the I will pay to have it done next time categories. I can say the foam is very firm and the seat is considerably more comfy.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.
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#10
Where is the best place to buy a bottom seat base. I went out and compared the seats and the excess of loose metal at the back makes me think it is cracked and broken. At a glance it looks trashed. The passenger had 5 cracks to weld up, the drivers seat looks a whole lot worse. May go mount passenger seat on drivers side so I can deliver to shop tomorrow for engine troubleshooting and repair. Anyone have pictures of where the vin numbers are found on engine and tranny.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.
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