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Seam Sealer
#1
Just a quick question about seam sealers: which is best?

I have some slight gaps in a few places where the floor pans didn't line up absolutely perfect (liberal use of the blocks and dollies couldn't quite get them into shape). My first thought was to use the tube-type seam sealer and effectively 'lay a bead' as you would with regular caulking - that should take care of any small gaps. But as I read the instructions, the 3M stuff I picked up says to Not use it for sealing interior joints. Doesn't say why... just says not to do it.

I also picked up some 3M brushable seam sealer (I seem to always pick up my stuff before I see one of Scott's videos showing better and cheaper alternative products), but I'm not so sure it's up to the job of bridging the gaps. It has nothing to say about using it inside or outside... or not to, either.

So - I guess the real question is: why can't one product be used inside while the other can? The ingredients are mostly the same, and the caulk-like sealer actually sets up and cures a lot quicker than the brush-on.

I was thinking the caulk-style might give off fumes for quite awhile, but I'm pretty sure my car won't be sealed up completely any time soon (need a whole set of weather stripping, after all), and based on all the dried up beads of factory seam sealer I've been removing, I'm thinking the caulk-like stuff should be fine.

Any ideas? Thoughts? Scary stories of community tragedy involving caulk-type seam sealer? Thanks!

Eric

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#2
I do not know about 3M brand. We use different in Europe. However I feel any kind of polyurethane seam sealer has to work. I prefer caulk style compare to brushable . I sealed all my joints on the car inside and in undercarriage with that stuff - no issue with that.

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#3
Mister 4x4;35396 Wrote:Just a quick question about seam sealers: which is best?

I have some slight gaps in a few places where the floor pans didn't line up absolutely perfect (liberal use of the blocks and dollies couldn't quite get them into shape). My first thought was to use the tube-type seam sealer and effectively 'lay a bead' as you would with regular caulking - that should take care of any small gaps. But as I read the instructions, the 3M stuff I picked up says to Not use it for sealing interior joints. Doesn't say why... just says not to do it.

I also picked up some 3M brushable seam sealer (I seem to always pick up my stuff before I see one of Scott's videos showing better and cheaper alternative products), but I'm not so sure it's up to the job of bridging the gaps. It has nothing to say about using it inside or outside... or not to, either.

So - I guess the real question is: why can't one product be used inside while the other can? The ingredients are mostly the same, and the caulk-like sealer actually sets up and cures a lot quicker than the brush-on.

I was thinking the caulk-style might give off fumes for quite awhile, but I'm pretty sure my car won't be sealed up completely any time soon (need a whole set of weather stripping, after all), and based on all the dried up beads of factory seam sealer I've been removing, I'm thinking the caulk-like stuff should be fine.

Any ideas? Thoughts? Scary stories of community tragedy involving caulk-type seam sealer? Thanks!
Eric,
Order the flexo #12 don't waste your time or money on anything else !
http://www.fascoepoxies.com/
It will take a bit to dry..Head on down to the craft store & pick up some of the disposable bags they use for cake icing fill er up & go to town !!



LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#4
Sucky part is that I already have 2 tubes of the 3M caulk-style, and a quart of 3M brushable.

I picked them up a few weeks ago thinking I was closer than I thought. Last night, I read the instructions and discovered the warning on the caulk-style tubes.

I also saw your videos the other night about cowl repairs (over at Mach 1 Club) and discovered your Flexo - kicking myself for getting the 3M now, since I know you don't use junk and trust your advice implicitely... but I'm stuck with it (it was not cheap, either... especially after the local paint shop mark-up).

Maybe I'll just save it for the trunk.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#5
I used the 3M and it worked out ok, may not be the best out there but will work fine.
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#6
Mister 4x4;35468 Wrote:Sucky part is that I already have 2 tubes of the 3M caulk-style, and a quart of 3M brushable.

I picked them up a few weeks ago thinking I was closer than I thought. Last night, I read the instructions and discovered the warning on the caulk-style tubes.

I also saw your videos the other night about cowl repairs (over at Mach 1 Club) and discovered your Flexo - kicking myself for getting the 3M now, since I know you don't use junk and trust your advice implicitely... but I'm stuck with it (it was not cheap, either... especially after the local paint shop mark-up).

Maybe I'll just save it for the trunk.
Eric,
You could give it to someone you don't like Wink Just bite the bullet & return it to the paint house..There is no reason in the world that they should not take it back (unless you opened it) Just tell them you made a mistake & ordered the wrong stuff. If they won't give you cash then take a credit & get some sanding discs grinding wheels etc. BUT DON'T USE IT you will be sorry down the road..


LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#7
Qcode351mach;35509 Wrote:
Mister 4x4;35468 Wrote:Sucky part is that I already have 2 tubes of the 3M caulk-style, and a quart of 3M brushable.

I picked them up a few weeks ago thinking I was closer than I thought. Last night, I read the instructions and discovered the warning on the caulk-style tubes.

I also saw your videos the other night about cowl repairs (over at Mach 1 Club) and discovered your Flexo - kicking myself for getting the 3M now, since I know you don't use junk and trust your advice implicitely... but I'm stuck with it (it was not cheap, either... especially after the local paint shop mark-up).

Maybe I'll just save it for the trunk.
Eric,
You could give it to someone you don't like Wink Just bite the bullet & return it to the paint house..There is no reason in the world that they should not take it back (unless you opened it) Just tell them you made a mistake & ordered the wrong stuff. If they won't give you cash then take a credit & get some sanding discs grinding wheels etc. BUT DON'T USE IT you will be sorry down the road..


Well, I DO have a friend working on a Camaro. Wink Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#8
Mister 4x4;35799 Wrote:
Qcode351mach;35509 Wrote:
Mister 4x4;35468 Wrote:Sucky part is that I already have 2 tubes of the 3M caulk-style, and a quart of 3M brushable.

I picked them up a few weeks ago thinking I was closer than I thought. Last night, I read the instructions and discovered the warning on the caulk-style tubes.

I also saw your videos the other night about cowl repairs (over at Mach 1 Club) and discovered your Flexo - kicking myself for getting the 3M now, since I know you don't use junk and trust your advice implicitely... but I'm stuck with it (it was not cheap, either... especially after the local paint shop mark-up).

Maybe I'll just save it for the trunk.
Eric,
You could give it to someone you don't like Wink Just bite the bullet & return it to the paint house..There is no reason in the world that they should not take it back (unless you opened it) Just tell them you made a mistake & ordered the wrong stuff. If they won't give you cash then take a credit & get some sanding discs grinding wheels etc. BUT DON'T USE IT you will be sorry down the road..


Well, I DO have a friend working on a Camaro. Wink Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin
Humm..I'm past that point on mine & I already redid all the seams on the inside with the Flexo ! so must be the other guy your talking about Tongue


LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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