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Screw in Freeze plugs. 351 Cleveland
#11
I've seen a few blocks that had been damaged by water freezing in them, none had been saved by the "freeze" plugs popping out. The most common place where the blocks cracked were at the plug locations, as that is a weak point.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#12
The core plugs can blow out that is why the NASCAR blocks and Boss blocks had screw in plugs. I believe Australian blocks did also. If you notice in the heads there are screw in plugs under the valve covers.
They do rust out for sure and you pretty much have to pull engine to do a good job replacing and if I remember right one behind flywheel or flex plate.
In the race shop before they had the screw in plugs we would drill small holes adjacent to the plug and put like three drive screws in to help hold them in.
I was at Charlotte swap meet yesterday and there was a boss 302 car that had a frozen and cracked block. It cracked in front of the block on the R.H. bank just below the head. The owner said he had not seen the crack. That scrap block dropped the cars value by many thousands of $ not numbers matching. You can braze a crack we use to all the time and there are some great welding rods made today for welding cast iron. I would not scrap a cracked block unless it was really bad. That would be like scraping a body because of a rust hole, lol. Hey the whole block was molten at one time. Space ships have welded in components. Don't be afraid of it.
We would have massive stamping die failures and would send the tools to MPD Welding in Michigan for weld and braze repairs. They would use big heat tables to preheat the casting and grind out Vee and use like 1/2" diameter brazing rods and braze 24 hours 7 days a week to put a crashed die back together. It is a very common practice so do not toss a cracked block or head. Check with them if you need a casting repaired before tossing it. I have seen tools welded that weighed over 30,000 lbs. cast iron several inches thick. They ran for years after repair under heavy stress stamping parts.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#13
David, Don, I get your point about cracked blocks and repairing. In my post, I said I scrapped the block, when in actuality, I should have said I didn't want to spend the 400 bucks Cdn to have it pressure tested and magna fluxed. As I did not need that block anymore, I gave it to a young lad who may build a motor with it for his Bronco.
So, it may still live!
Geoff.
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#14
A friend of mine and I had both our Cleveland blocks machined for a one-piece rear main seal and I had mine tapped for 1 1/4" NPT Ford Racing freeze plugs. It only cost about $150. The RMS machining cost about the same. Why not? I had a brass plug blow on the dyno once...
[Image: 2_Clevelands_ea_getting_one_piece_RMS_mo..._plugs.jpg]

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! thumb

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#15
If I could find someone local to machine my next block for the 1 piece rear seal and screw in plugs for that price I would do it.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#16
(04-08-2018, 09:17 PM)Jeff73Mach1 Wrote: If I could find someone local to machine my next block for the 1 piece rear seal and screw in plugs for that price I would do it.

Amen!

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3F03Q, Gold Glow, Blk Dlx, Blk Tp, 4-Spd, Tach, Dcr Grp, Stripes,Tu-Tone Hood, Frgd Whls
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