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Rust proofing a rust free car
#1
bulb 
Question. I need to do some rust proofing on my 4speed car...the rust free So Cal "Survivor" car I bought and want to keep it rust free, yet also drive it in 100% humidity since that's all we've got here in Mobile plus all the unexpected rain storms we get. I'll paint it later b/c I'm digging the survivor look right now.

Do I use Rust Bullet black or silver? Then where do I get 105 sqft of RAAMat?

Qcode351mach;88598 Wrote:Don,
The silver is for rust protection..It then gets top coated with the black..For a more o.e.m look instead of top coating with the black shell you could use the S.E.M rustsheild in flat black ...If your going to redo the car down the road I won't do the rust bullet now.. Instead just use S.E.M. rustsheild straight from the can..Wire wheel remove surface rust..It's how I did my Camaro...& I'm going to do the same on the New one I bought..Excellent product..put on the same way (foam brushes & rollers)
http://semproducts.com/product-catalog/r...st-shield/

Here's where to order the raam mat
http://www.raamaudio.com/


marks73;88588 Wrote:Don't know what color to use but I'm using the Rustoleum Bed Liner for undercoating. Looked great on Roy's car.


Qcode351mach;88598 Wrote:He needs something to go right onto bare metal for rust protection.. That's not the product to use ..That product is a top coat for something that already has a finish or base on it..

Go Time;88602 Wrote:Don, I've just used some rust bullet in the past couple months, I sprayed automotive version out of some cheap Harbor Freight Guns on my front clip. This past weekend I used a sponge brush to put it in on the inside and outside of the door post. Man its a pain to clean up when shot through a gun. Overspray, well its some nasty stuff. The brush on the other hand just threw it away. That rust bullet is some tough stuff. Im not so sure I won't be applying it with a sponge brush from now on. It sure was a lot easier to clean up. You need to use Xylene or something like it to clean it out of your gun. Just thought I would chime in and let you know my experience with it.

Dennis


The specific areas I want to focus my rust prevention on (in priority order) are:
1.) Inside the cowl around the hats
2.) Outside top of the cowl
3.) Wheel wells
4.) Undercoating the bottom of the car (then new exhaust Smile )
5.) Floor pans then RAAMat

So would these products be correct for each line item?

1. inner cowl: Rust Bullet Silver then RB Black?
2. cowl outside: RB Silver then S.E.M rustsheild?
3. wheel wells: Rustoleum Bed Liner or something else?
4. underside of car: Rustoleum Bed Liner or something else?
5. floor pans: RB Silver then RAAMat?

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
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#2
Don..
Inside the cowl top hats..rust bullet silver..then rustbullet black (black shell)

Exterior of cowl..Rustbullet silver..scuff after dry with 320..Then spray with eastwood extreme chassis black spray bombs

Inside of car floor pans..etc..Rustbullet silver

Under car...Your choice..Rustbullet siver..then sem rust sheild..Rust bullet silver..than Rustbullet blackshell...Sem rust sheild..Pick your poison..personally the easiest for now..sem rustsheild..

Undercoat for wheel wells etc spi bedliner No need to "undercoat the entire bottom of the car...

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#3
Some other people can speak to this subject. This is my worthless opinion.

#1
If I go to see a CALIFORNIA car(and I have 2 of them), if I see RUST PROTECTION, I am thinking "What is the owner trying to hide?"

#2
I understand if everything is prepared right, mixed right and applied right the rust protection will not peel....it might even dry. But if it does peel, now you have people wondering if the rust protection is peeling or is it rust from the car that is falling off.

#3
My 73 convertible spent the first 20 years of it's life in Michigan. Was driven through a decade of winters before retiring to SoCal. There are a few troublesome areas, but for the vast majority of areas the rust has not gotten any worse then when I got the car. I don't know that I would really worry about it.

So, I would not add rust protection to a true California car. Get the rust out and be done with it. It won't come back. And when someone looks at your car and sees sheet metal or painted sheet metal instead of rust protection, they will know your car has basked in the glow of the California sun.

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#4
LPS-3
http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/corros.../LPS3.html
and
AMSOIL
http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/underc...ricant.htm

Dad used to work in the airline industry, and used LPS on Boeing, Airbus, Lockheed, etc. planes. Oughta make it OK on a Ford in my book.
The Amsoil is/has been sold under many names over the years, such as PDRP ( http://www.toolfetch.com/coatings-425-s00710.shtml ) and Maxima Chain Wax (chain lube for motorcycles - http://www.maximausa.com/shopping/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28 ).

These are a lot less permanent than urethane or hardening materials on the open areas such as floor and wheel well liners. I'd recommend them both for anywhere that you CAN'T see, such as floor-to-frame spot welds, inside door corners, inside dogleg area, inner to quarter panel seam, etc.
The LPS stays gooey and somewhat snotty, the Chain Wax derivatives go on like water and "set up" like very thin paraffin wax. Want to paint what areas you can see at a later date? Wipe the area clean with thinner, prep as usual and shoot.

I'd venture a guess that the companies mentioned list their product longevity as merely a disclaimer (damned lawyers).

Different solutions for different needs.

Here in Pittsburgh, we have 2006-2007 vehicles with rust THROUGH problems, namely rocker panels and wheelwell arches on pickup trucks. I sell rust repair panels daily for them... but none of my vehicles seem to have that problem Cool

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
  Reply
#5
MotoArts;88753 Wrote:LPS-3
http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/corros.../LPS3.html
and
AMSOIL
http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/underc...ricant.htm

Dad used to work in the airline industry, and used LPS on Boeing, Airbus, Lockheed, etc. planes. Oughta make it OK on a Ford in my book.
The Amsoil is/has been sold under many names over the years, such as PDRP ( http://www.toolfetch.com/coatings-425-s00710.shtml ) and Maxima Chain Wax (chain lube for motorcycles - http://www.maximausa.com/shopping/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28 ).

These are a lot less permanent than urethane or hardening materials on the open areas such as floor and wheel well liners. I'd recommend them both for anywhere that you CAN'T see, such as floor-to-frame spot welds, inside door corners, inside dogleg area, inner to quarter panel seam, etc.
The LPS stays gooey and somewhat snotty, the Chain Wax derivatives go on like water and "set up" like very thin paraffin wax. Want to paint what areas you can see at a later date? Wipe the area clean with thinner, prep as usual and shoot.

I'd venture a guess that the companies mentioned list their product longevity as merely a disclaimer (damned lawyers).

Different solutions for different needs.

Here in Pittsburgh, we have 2006-2007 vehicles with rust THROUGH problems, namely rocker panels and wheelwell arches on pickup trucks. I sell rust repair panels daily for them... but none of my vehicles seem to have that problem Cool
Moto..what your referring to is cavity wax..& I agree all the internal areas (inside rockers,torque boxs etc) should be done..When I worked for Bmw it was part of the required factory specified repair process on any collision work when a panel was replaced..I keep stressing to the guys here though that when you have access to any of those areas due to panel structural replacement..The panel part should be coated with rustbullet or epoxy primer..Then after paint finishing as added protection you can come back in with your cavity wax..As an example (Just a few of the many parts I did) Take a look at my car ..I epoxy primed the trunk floor..new rear frame rails BEFORE they were installed..Then before installing the trunk floor rustbullet was applied to the INSIDE of the entire rear frame rail using my sponge & string technique..Another example..On my oem quarters we applied epoxy primer to the entire inside surface BEFORE they were installed..Once finished I will apply cavity wax too..These are a few extra steps for a lasting job that most pro's or diy hobbyists overlook...
Here's the product I use..
http://www.winzerusa.com/?__event=browse...c33ea63501

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#6
Scott,
How do you decide when to use SPI Epoxy Primer and when to use RB Silver as the base coat?

There are a few quarter sized spots of VERY light surface rust on top of the cowl that have developed since I've owned the car where some paint has flaked off. I'm planning to sand & wire wheel the entire top of the cowl to bare metal. Should I neutralize that with a product, then RB silver, then the extreme chassis black? Should epoxy primer be the first coating since bare metal then, RB, then the chassis black top coat?

What product do you recommend to clean the inside of the cowl? I have no idea what's in there but it is 100% solid metal. I am thinking a dawn dish soap scrub down followed by my power washer to blast the areas I can't reach. But should I use some type of metal prep product to neutralize any surface rust that may possibly be in there?

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
  Reply
#7
Don65Stang;88811 Wrote:Scott,
How do you decide when to use SPI Epoxy Primer and when to use RB Silver as the base coat?

There are a few quarter sized spots of VERY light surface rust on top of the cowl that have developed since I've owned the car where some paint has flaked off. I'm planning to sand & wire wheel the entire top of the cowl to bare metal. Should I neutralize that with a product, then RB silver, then the extreme chassis black? Should epoxy primer be the first coating since bare metal then, RB, then the chassis black top coat?

What product do you recommend to clean the inside of the cowl? I have no idea what's in there but it is 100% solid metal. I am thinking a dawn dish soap scrub down followed by my power washer to blast the areas I can't reach. But should I use some type of metal prep product to neutralize any surface rust that may possibly be in there?
Don,
Pretty much anything that I'm going to top coat with paint that's seen I use the epoxy..Mainly the exterior sheet metal..Anything that's going to take a lot of abuse or not seen I use rustbullet....I did the trunk floor frame rails since I wanted the option of painting (base clear coat) The epoxy gives you a better base in my opinion for top coating
I think a better plan for the exterior of the cowl would be epoxy then the eastwood chassis paint..You don't need epoxy & rustbullet, it's one or the other..Your plan to use dawn on the inside etc. is perfect..Thats exactly what I did on the new mach..I would then remove the rust as best you can by what ever means wire wheel sand paper etc. I won't use any neutralizer that's where you can run into trouble especially with epoxy..Epoxy CAN'T be put over anything that contains acid !!!!!!!!...I would use the silver rustbullet on the entire inside of the cowl don't forget the top inside part too..sticks with a small foam brush taped on work great..also handy to have a small mirror..As for the top exterior where you have rust just remove it using the least aggressive sand paper as possible or us a spot blaster ..You do want to use the spi wax & grease BEFORE epoxy priming..Just follow all the directions to the T on the product use sheets..I would scuff with 320..then shoot the eastwood

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
  Reply
#8
[Image: DSCF6832.jpg]

I had my 73 convert Ziebart'ed back in 1974. They drilled quite a few access holes in the body and used wands to insert into the holes and applied the rustproofing.

The body shop that did the restoration could not believe how solid and rust free my convert was. The body shop owner worked for Ford in the 70's/80's and commented on how bad these cars rusted out. When he first saw my car he kept looking around the body and undercarriage and was just amazed at the condition.



Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony

Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06


[Image: 20180127_082009.jpg]

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