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rotating engine while in storage
Before owning the Mach1, I had a cobra replica with a Roush 351w engine. Talk on the owners forums related to winter storage was that it was better for the engine internals to be rotated as opposed to having them sitting in one spot for the winter months. Supposedly better for the valves and springs etc.. to be moved.

If the car cant be started and run to get fully warmed up and instead of just bumping the starter, the suggestion was to just rotate the engine manually using a socket on the crankshaft and turning clockwise a few degrees every couple of weeks.

Does anybody do anything like this on their car? Would it really help or is it overkill for a car sitting 6 months?

If you want to go overkill. Hand turn it and also use a oil pump primer and get some oil flowing through it.

If mine had to sit without being started for 6 months I would hand rotate it every month or so.

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
I park it and forget it. Mine is stored at least 5 months over the winter and I don't touch it. I've done it this way for over 20 years, no problems. Dad's Corvette has been stored the same way for close to 50 years.

[Image: FE177109-A1-C8-4-A6-C-9224-AACCFD66-C3-C9.png]

Rick Bombard
1971 Grabber Green Mach 1 351C 4V
2013 Race Red California Special Convertible
1973 Medium Copper Metallic Convertible 302 4V     SOLD
1953 F-100 project

My car was down for 4 years during its restoration. I rotated the crank 5/4's of a full rotation once a month. When I finally started the car, one lifter was a bit noisy for a few seconds, but other than that, no other issues with the engine. On the other hand, the water and fuel pumps failed within a couple of months due to their seals drying out.

Let me check your shorts!

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[Image: oldfart.png]
With my other classic car(1981 Honda Prelude) I try to start it up halfway during the winter time period. Pick a day that is fairly mild. Start the car up till its warm and I go around the block a couple of times. Never have I drained the oil or gas from the tank. Idk who does. But I do add a fuel stabiliser to a full tank prior to storage in autumn. Haven't had any problems yet. (8yrs now)
I would use the same method for any other car I plan to store. the mustang is in the heated bodyshop at the moment so I dont need to worry too much.



"When the world is running down you make the best of what's still around."- Sting and The Police

[Image: Indy-Auto-2019-Rpm-Autopassion-32.jpg]

1972 Ford Mustang Mach 1 (Father & sons restoration project)
- 351 Cleveland H-code w/ factory Ram-air induction

 - FMX 3-speed trans

 - 9-inch rear with 3.25:1 ratio
As far as wear and tear in the engine goes, the crosshatch in the cylinder bores and the microscopic pores in moly piston rings hold enough lubricant to prevent a dry start after sitting for years. If an engine is going to sit for years, however, I would definitely be using a good quality synthetic oil which has an almost infinite shelf life and excellent durability in a wide range of temperatures. I would certainly allow the starter motor to run the engine for a good 5-10 seconds (to get some oil flowing) before allowing it to start after sitting for a long time.

1971 Mustang fastback: 10.3:1 C90E 408W hydroller - CDAN4 EEC-V w/EDIS8, girdled, lowered and caged
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