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Rookie Mistake w/brand new rotisserie
#1
So...I could barely go to sleep last night w/out thinking about what I did to the rotisserie I just picked up a couple weeks ago.  I was so excited and after lining it up with my car I started to raise it up into position.  It was more difficult than I thought it would be to raise it but thought it's just heavy.  It raised into position (about 5 inches from it's starting point).  After the quick test fit to see how the new Mustang brackets would fit I lowered it back down.  A few minutes later I noticed that the bolt was still going through the neck of the unit...I thought to myself "well that's not good...how did it even raise up at all".  I knew right away why it seemed like there was resistance while I was jacking it up.  Well jack it up I sure did...I immediately began inspecting and saw a split along the bottom weld.  Not only did I split the weld but I'm sure I'm stretched some metal as well in the process.  Anyway...please don't beat me up too bad.  I still days later think about how much of an idiotic rookie move that was and can't believe I messed up my rotisserie.  

I figure I have two options...  Just weld it in place how it sits or heat it up to get it back completely straight and then weld.  Please chime in with thoughts.  

[Image: Rotisseriesplit.jpg]

[Image: Rotisseriesplit2.jpg]

Stang Life!

[Image: Stangs.jpg]






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#2
So you raised the car up while there was still a bolt there to prevent it moves up or down? No wonder it was heavy!
The weld next to it seams be intact. if the car went up, its likely having damage else where or there are more damages on the welds than visible on the pict.
If any fracture, you need grind deep so both part of the tubes can be welded again. Make sure you weld with lots of power, not just lay some metal, it needs to melt.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#3
(10-15-2018, 06:28 AM)Fabrice Wrote: So you raised the car up while there was still a bolt there to prevent it moves up or down? No wonder it was heavy!
The weld next to it seams be intact. if the car went up, its likely having damage else where or there are more damages on the welds than visible on the pict.
If any fracture, you need grind deep so both part of the tubes can be welded again. Make sure you weld with lots of power, not just lay some metal, it needs to melt.

No, I didn't actually raise the car up on it.  I was just raising the rotisserie mounts up to the front bumper mounting holes for a test fit of the Mustang brackets I purchased for the rotisserie.  So there was no load on the rotisserie...just a bolt trying to do it's job while I was using that nice 3 ton jack to rip it apart.  :Sad

Stang Life!

[Image: Stangs.jpg]






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#4
+1 on making sure you get good penetration on welding it. I would try to get it back to square. With that angle in it you would have problems trying to rotate your car. You would either bend the attachment points on the end of the car or twist it.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#5
(10-15-2018, 08:27 AM)Don C Wrote: +1 on making sure you get good penetration on welding it. I would try to get it back to square. With that angle in it you would have problems trying to rotate your car. You would either bend the attachment points on the end of the car or twist it.

Apply heat at the seam to get it back to square?

Stang Life!

[Image: Stangs.jpg]






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#6
Applaud your honesty and request for suggestions to fix. We are all rookies at something as we go through life. Better to learn from those mistakes and go on to the next learning opportunity than to dwell on the ones we have had. Get it welded and move on.

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
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#7
You can see by the reflection in your second picture that even the lower end of the side braces are twisted. Even with heat it's going to take a fair amount of force to return it to square. While the weld on the inside edge has split the rest hasn't, so the tubing has bent. I would grind off as much of the damaged weld as possible, so it doesn't interfere with your straightening effort, as well as giving you a clean weld. You'll need to be careful that you don't bend something else when you straighten it.

I have a heavy duty come-along and heavy duty ratchet straps that that would apply enough pressure to help straighten it, but would need some thought given on attachment points and methods.

You'll also need to be sure you don't overheat and burn/damage the steel in the tubing. Do not use water to rapidly cool it, you don't want to embrittle it.

The best way to straighten metal is to apply force in the opposite direction of the bending force.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#8
(10-15-2018, 10:22 AM)Don C Wrote: You can see by the reflection in your second picture that even the lower end of the side braces are twisted. 

Yeah...I really did a number on it huh!?   Shootself
I won't mind if it doesn't end up being perfect but I do need to get it as close to straight as possible.  I would rather do it with force as you suggested rather than heat but I'm just not sure if that can be done.

Stang Life!

[Image: Stangs.jpg]






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#9
To try to pull it back into position would be require some heavy steel straps around the upper and lower legs the jack is connected to. I would place the upper pulling point as close to the upright post as possible and the lower one as close to the front wheel as possible, so you maximize the pulling angle. The danger of this is bending that bottom leg, instead of the upright connection. To bend like it did will have slightly stretched the steel in the bottom tube, forcing it back will require that steel to be pushed back, not an easy thing.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#10
This is going to be extremely difficult to get back straight without bending something else or weakening the structure. Not to mention this is going to be very dangerous, using straps and come-alongs. Think about the amount of force that will be required to being this back to straight, then think about that amount of force if a strap fails or worse yet the rest of the weld fails on the bottom creating a massive projectile. I would strongly suggest talking to a local fab shop about having them straighten and weld it up. Also, I'm not familiar with your shop set up, but do you even have points that you could anchor to in order to create the amount of force that will be needed.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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