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Restore Rusty Fuse Block
#1
Has anyone out there restored a rusty fuse block?
The contacts that the fuses snap into are rusty. I figure if I Dremel off the rust with a wire brush or something, that the rust will probably just return.
Any thoughts? Anyone attempted a recondition like this?
Wondering if I can clean them off and then coat them with something?
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#2
If you can get the contact cleaned, this should prevent further corrosion and enhance conductivity. I've used the product for several years in audio and automotive applications. http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.292/.f
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#3
c9zx;283091 Wrote:If you can get the contact cleaned, this should prevent further corrosion and enhance conductivity. I've used the product for several years in audio and automotive applications. http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.292/.f

Looks like just what I need! Coats the contacts and prevents oxidation. I was hoping someone such as yourself could lead me to an answer.
Thanks!
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#4
Glad to help. Chuck
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#5
What I do is put the emptied fuse box in a glass bead blasting cabinet; it is best to remove the green plug on the back first. Then if the fuse clips are still good, apply Boeshield T9 to the contacts and let dry. I used to use dielectric grease, but it was hard to apply it to the entire fuse clip itself.

Another approach, taking more time, is to soak the empty fuse box in EvapoRust for 24-48 hours, wash quickly in water, and air dry. Then apply Boeshield.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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#6
I've cleaned up several items that were left in a bucket with other iron parts....the bucket, evidently, collected water from time to time. I used either the molasses vat and/or Evapo Rust. Either of these will dissolve the iron oxide and bring it into solution. Anything that's left on the part can usually be wiped off or brushed off with a toothbrush.

Evapo Rust would be my suggestion for the first step. Once you get the rust off of everything, you can use the contact preservative Chuck mentioned. The nice thing about this method is that any plating will be left untouched.
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#7
c9zx;283091 Wrote:If you can get the contact cleaned, this should prevent further corrosion and enhance conductivity. I've used the product for several years in audio and automotive applications. http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.292/.f

That stuff is like magic in a can. I can't say from experience what it will do for corrosion but it is an incredible lubricant for electrical contacts.

I have a can of that stuff at work and a little spray will make a 60 year old Westinghouse selector switch work like new.

I wonder if you could electroplate it yourself for a reasonable cost.
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#8
FYI dielectric grease is NON-Conductive.

the worst thing you could do is apply dielectric grease to a contact point to prevent oxidization it will inhibit electrical conductivity.

dielectric grease is electrically insulating and was designed to be applied to the seal between the rubber ignition wire boots and the outside surface around the cap and the plug ceramic. it prevents the high voltage ignition spark from jumping out of the boots causing arcing or cross fire. you do not get it on the connection points in the cap or at the end of the spark plugs. it also helps with ignition wire removal as it keeps the boots from sticking to the plug bodies from the engine heat fusing things together. dielectric was designed to not break down when high voltage spark hits it.

there is Switch lubricant that is conductive and designed for electrical connections and acts as a lubricant to help worn or sticking switch contacts.

people mistake things and put dielectric grease on the connection between male and female connectors and then wonder why the connection gets REALLY hot over time the dielectric grease will increase resistance (ohms) at that point. it needs to be cleaned off(removed) and replaced with Electrical Contact Lubricant which is conductive.

people will sometimes smear the dielectric all over the plug wires and connection points and then have erratic or weak spark, so they go out and try a Super high voltage coil to compensate for the mistake.
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#9
Thank you to all who replied. Gives me some great ideas on how to handle the "rusty fingers". Harness is otherwise 100%.
I just welded in new floor pans on my 72 Mach. Interior is gutted.
POR 15 the firewall. Rebuild the AC/heater box. Wiring harness is next.
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