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replacment alternator
#1
Looking to replace my old stock alternator. I was going to use this one from NPD. Has anyone ordered this one before? I like NPD because its ten miles from my house. I have a stock 351 cleveland. Here is the link.
http://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/store/...6-431.html


John J
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#2
Although I can't speak for this particular alternator, I'd believe all of the similarly priced early style would be sourced from offshore. They're hit and miss. If you're going for an all OE look, I'd give it a try. Price seems OK.

On my '90 Mustang, I replaced its poorly designed 2nd generation ("G2") alternator with a G6 from a 2000 Taurus. It was a used unit that I had on hand. It only required an internal regulator change, as the G6 has no less than 6 different regulator choices Undecided. On that car, it was a bolt up affair, requiring a new charge lead and inline mega fuse to the battery. Benefits included a 90+ amp max output, internal fan, and correction of the potential known fire hazard that all of the G2 systems had (overheating harnesses due to corroded terminals and small charge wire(s).

Do a google search on "G2 alternator conversion" to get an idea. Most use a G3 to convert, but my on-hand G6 was a drop in deal in the Fox car.

When I complete my resto on the '71 it will have one of these compact, modern "one wire" upgrades done to it too. The ones shown use serpentine belt pulleys, so I'll have to research which alt to use to get standard V-belts to work.
There's no need for the big clunky '70's GM one wire conversions, especially when the Chebbie guys might point and giggle at you at cruise nights... Big Grin

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
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#3
I also found this one at Rock Auto. Has any one used the one as a replacement. Here is the link.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo...cc=1132995



John J
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#4
if your going to use Rockauto.com use this Promo code at check out 23844946925306
copy and past it in the "how did you hear about us" and hit apply you will save 5%
I used this code last week when I bought my Shocks.

[Image: 2zem9nk.jpg]
Iyman
1972 Mustang convertible run_horse  
Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Facebook Page

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Web Page

  Reply
#5
imusa76;194322 Wrote:if your going to use Rockauto.com use this Promo code at check out 23844946925306
copy and past it in the "how did you hear about us" and hit apply you will save 5%
I used this code last week when I bought my Shocks.

Thanks for the info.


John J
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#6
When my alt craps out I was think of going with the "One Wire" Unit that goes for abt $100
It has a built-in regulator that way I can ditch the separate regulator and that part of the
harness.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Chrome-SB-Fo...b8&vxp=mtr

Make it known I don't care about concourse correctness.

Cheers
Paul
  Reply
#7
rocket366;194343 Wrote:When my alt craps out I was think of going with the "One Wire" Unit that goes for abt $100
It has a built-in regulator that way I can ditch the separate regulator and that part of the
harness.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Chrome-SB-Fo...b8&vxp=mtr

Make it known I don't care about concourse correctness.

Cheers
Paul

The only down side to the 1 wire alternator is you have to give the engine one good rev after starting it to excite the alternator to start charging the battery, other than that I like the simplicity of it.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - edelbrock rpm fuel pump - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 3.50 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#8
Why would u have to rev the engine to get it to charge?

Its just a chevy alt in ford skin and I never had to rev a chevy to get it to charge.

there is an issue there bro.

Note: looking back the built-in regulator was famous for being damaged by voltage spikes...
arcing jumping the battery jumping someone else etc.

Cheers
Paul
  Reply
#9
rocket366;194349 Wrote:Why would u have to rev the engine to get it to charge?

Its just a chevy alt in ford skin and I never had to rev a chevy to get it to charge.

there is an issue there bro.

Note: looking back the built-in regulator was famous for being damaged by voltage spikes...
arcing jumping the battery jumping someone else etc.

Cheers
Paul

Nope, no issues that I am aware of. It is a tough stuff 1 wire alternator that I installed new on my 351w powered foxbody. I am not talking about a rev to the moon more like if I reach in the car and cold start it with no pedal the voltage guage will read 12.5ish volts, give it 1 quick stab of the pedal and the voltage will start reading 13.8ish volts from there on. It was my understanding that first initial rev was necessary to excite the alternator to start charging, I guess I must be mistakenSmile

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - edelbrock rpm fuel pump - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 3.50 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#10
Interesting.

I don't doubt you I guess its really a non issue as when your driving it will charge.

I wonder what it would do if your idle was set higher say 1000?
would it still need a blip of the throttle?

Regards Paul
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