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Replacing Cam Bearings on a 351C
#1
Well, I was almost ready to start putting the motor back together, when I was inspecting the cam bearings and noticed the #3 bearing was slightly damaged. So, I figured I might as well replace them while I've got everything torn apart.

First, I needed to order the bearings (about $35 for the set of 5 from the local NAPA) and then track down a cam bearing tool and figure out how to use it. I was able to borrow one and through trial and error figured out how to put it together and use it to both removed the old bearing and install the new ones.

Here's what the tool looks like assembled:


.jpg   Cam Bearing Tool Laid out.JPG (Size: 44.21 KB / Downloads: 191)



I didn't have the instructions for the tool, and couldn't find much help on the internet, so here's a picture of the business end of the tool when assembled:


.jpg   Cam Bearning tool assembled.JPG (Size: 42.01 KB / Downloads: 190)

And here it is with the parts disassembled:


.jpg   Cam Bearning tool disassembled.JPG (Size: 38.96 KB / Downloads: 186)

Here's a picture of the old cam bearings, and you can see why #3 needed to be replaced:


.jpg   Old Cam Bearings.JPG (Size: 50.26 KB / Downloads: 191)

Using the cam bearing tool is pretty straight forward. Slide the tool into the cam journal, then place the bearing on the business end of the tool and tighten the knob until it's snug. Then line up the bearing with the journal and tap the tool until the cam is seated. Make sure the oil holes in the bearing line up.


.jpg   Cam Bearing tool in use.JPG (Size: 47.86 KB / Downloads: 189)


.jpg   Using the cam bearing tool.JPG (Size: 52.81 KB / Downloads: 186)

Make sure that the cam is centered and aligned correctly. If not, you'll be able to tell because it' really hard to tap the bearing in. If you just keep whacking it, it'll eventually go in, but you'll damage the bearing and then you'll have to buy a whole new set to replace the one (or two) that you damaged. That's what happened with bearings 2 and 4 (pictured here) when I stubbornly just bashed away until they were ruined:


.jpg   Screwed up 4th cam bearing.JPG (Size: 33.17 KB / Downloads: 186)

So, now I'm waiting on another set so I can re-do 2 and 4, and then really get started on the rebuild.

Doc
Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#2
OK Doc as long as the Mississippi River doesn't head back north you'll be amoung the driving soon.

Hope your southern members are all OK

Alan L

[Image: 1_30_09_13_10_12_32.png]
Alan L
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#3
not2old;23432 Wrote:OK Doc as long as the Mississippi River doesn't head back north you'll be amoung the driving soon.

Hope your southern members are all OK

Alan L

I'm doing dandy here in snowy northern Nevada, and hope that everyone along the Old Mississippi is hanging in there.
Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#4
I have family living in the Last town along the Atchafalaya river in Louisiana before you get to the Gulf, so thanks for your well wishes! They are counting on a 16 foot seawall along the riverfront, and a whole series of earthen levees to keep the water out of town.

Doc, is this your first engine rebuild? Impressive doing the cam bearings yourself. I've torn mine down to the short block, and should finish the disassembly to have the block checked before too much longer, I hope.
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#5
Nice work Doc.
Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#6
Make sure you set the front cam bearing to the proper distance past flush. Check your service manual for the proper measurement but I believe it is recessed something like .003-.005. This is critical for proper oil control.
73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#7
Thanks, folks. Yes, this is my first engine rebuild. I working on the logic that the shade tree mechanics of 40 - 50 years ago didn't always have the money to take their motors to the pros, yet they were able to re-build them and soup them up. Since there isn't much available along those lines in my small town anyway, I figure that if I can get the special tools and as much info as I can on the internet, I might be OK. I'm anxious to start putting her back together, though, and this method is much more time consuming.

Doc
Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#8
(05-17-2011, 04:39 AM)TommyK Wrote: Make sure you set the front cam bearing to the proper distance past flush. Check your service manual for the proper measurement but I believe it is recessed something like .003-.005. This is critical for proper oil control.

To bring this thread back from the dead.. If you are looking at the front of the engine, the bearing would be sunken in .003-.005 right? 
The shop manual's wording is kind of odd to me, and someone on a different forum said "stick out" which seems wrong. 
 
[Image: frontcambearing.jpg]
Should be like this?:
[Image: 2EJpmzDl.png][Image: 4kepdbKl.jpg]
It's also a little confusing because it seems like the bearing will sit past the chamfer on my block. The chamfer is about 1/16 Just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I do it, I'm pretty confident I can align the oil holes and use the tool properly at this point.
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#9
Yes, you are correct, when installed correctly it will be slightly recessed.


“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#10
(05-14-2017, 10:13 AM)Don C Wrote: Yes, you are correct, when installed correctly it will be slightly recessed.

Thanks, I just whacked them all in.. I am measuring .010-.012 below on #1. I will take a little break and give it that last little tap when I get home later.
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