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Replacement fuel line
#1
I will be purchasing a fuel line tomorrow to go from pump to 4150 Holley. I will be getting a 5/16 line that I can hand form.

Anyone done this and remember what length and fitting size I need to purchase.
I can take off my old line if necessary but I am sure someone knows what fitting goes into the pump, I hope....

I can buy a longer length than I need because one end will hook up to the carb using rubber hose and fuel filter.
351C Qcode 4sp

1972 Q-Code 4speed one of 201 produced. Staggered shocks, 3.50 traction lock, 44K miles.
Rodney from SW Florida
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#2
Might be best to measure your current line to ballpark the length. I usually buy a couple of sections as I usually Mess one up.

Also, i''m not sure how your pump is set up, most likely it has a female INverted Flare fitting that the line threads in to, but if it is a better than OEM quality pump it may
Have female NPT fittings, usually 1/4 or 3/8's...
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#3
Carguy4sp;288694 Wrote:I will be purchasing a fuel line tomorrow to go from pump to 4150 Holley. I will be getting a 5/16 line that I can hand form.

Anyone done this and remember what length and fitting size I need to purchase.
I can take off my old line if necessary but I am sure someone knows what fitting goes into the pump, I hope....

I can buy a longer length than I need because one end will hook up to the carb using rubber hose and fuel filter.
351C Qcode 4sp

I have just done this to my car today. The pictures (not the best, camera on wrong setting!!) may help you get the bends where you need them. It took me a couple of tries to get the clearance under the power steering pump right. I use 3/8th steel line with fittings already on. I bought a 40" length, but it really only needs about 30". Best to be too long and trim to length. If I were you, buy 2 lengths to save going back to the store like I did. A 40" length was only 8 bucks here in Canada.
I bought a bending tool that I used in a vice just to get the leverage I needed as steel is quite tough. It is an OEM brand multi purpose tube bender I got at the local auto parts store. It did the job!!
You will notice I have a chromed metal fuel bowl connector and the fitting on a 3/8" tube is the correct size for that fitting. A 5/16th will require an adaptor. On the pump end, I used a brass elbow with an adaptor, then used a short length of 3/8th ethanol resistant rubber tube to connect the tube and to allow for vibration. You must get the correct fittings!! Very important.
My reason for going to 3/8th was not just more fuel capacity, but also for the fitting size.
Hope this helps and if I forgot something, I'll add later.
Edit: I just realized I didn't mention that I kept a least 1" clearance from the block. That is not very clear in the pictures.
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#4
Carguy4sp;288694 Wrote:I can buy a longer length than I need because one end will hook up to the carb using rubber hose and fuel filter.
351C Qcode 4sp

Just my advice;
Do NOT put the fuel filter near the carb!! It should go between the pump and the line protruding from the inner apron. See picture #4. It should also be a steel canister filter, NEVER glass or plastic, unless you really want a fire!! If you go with rubber lines, make sure you buy ethanol resistant or they will go bad on you in no time. I just went through that as well and I buy non-ethanol Shell 91 fuel..... well sort of, there is always some ethanol in the delivery hose at the pump.
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#5
Very nice job you have done. Mine will look as good as yours I hope.
That steel line I am sure was not easy to form.

What fitting will I have for a factory stock 1972 351C ?

1972 Q-Code 4speed one of 201 produced. Staggered shocks, 3.50 traction lock, 44K miles.
Rodney from SW Florida
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#6
There are a few companies out there that sell exact bend/fit fuel line replacements, one steel and in stainless if you prefer. I purchased mine from Classic Tube out of the Buffalo area. These are designed for original factory set ups, so if you change the carb out, you would have to adjust as necessary and/or look at other options.
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#7
Stanglover;288707 Wrote:
Carguy4sp;288694 Wrote:I can buy a longer length than I need because one end will hook up to the carb using rubber hose and fuel filter.
351C Qcode 4sp

Just my advice;
Do NOT put the fuel filter near the carb!! It should go between the pump and the line protruding from the inner apron. See picture #4.

I will respectfully disagree here. Restrictions on the suction side of the pump will increase the likelihood of vapor related fuel issues. For this reason I always recommend the filter be placed on the pressure side of the pump.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#8
TommyK;288747 Wrote:
Stanglover;288707 Wrote:
Carguy4sp;288694 Wrote:I can buy a longer length than I need because one end will hook up to the carb using rubber hose and fuel filter.
351C Qcode 4sp

Just my advice;
Do NOT put the fuel filter near the carb!! It should go between the pump and the line protruding from the inner apron. See picture #4.

I will respectfully disagree here. Restrictions on the suction side of the pump will increase the likelihood of vapor related fuel issues. For this reason I always recommend the filter be placed on the pressure side of the pump.

Concur... There is a reason that Ford Engineers put the factory fuel filter at the carb. I also worry about the point from where the fuel filter is installed aft apron until the fuel reaches the carb inlet. I personally want to ensure that only clean fuel is reaching the carb. inlet. I have seen additional fuel filters installed at the apron, but I am a fan of less connections/cuts in a fuel line, the better.
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#9
TommyK;288747 Wrote:
Stanglover;288707 Wrote:
Carguy4sp;288694 Wrote:I can buy a longer length than I need because one end will hook up to the carb using rubber hose and fuel filter.
351C Qcode 4sp

Just my advice;
Do NOT put the fuel filter near the carb!! It should go between the pump and the line protruding from the inner apron. See picture #4.

I will respectfully disagree here. Restrictions on the suction side of the pump will increase the likelihood of vapor related fuel issues. For this reason I always recommend the filter be placed on the pressure side of the pump.

Tom, you do make a good point about suction side versus pressure side. To this end, the filter could be placed where I have a short length of rubber hose connecting the steel line to the pump. Downside is with the power steering pump in place, it might be difficult to get to. I will take a look at that option shortly when I get back in the garage. It may be possible to redesign the steel tube shape to accommodate a filter. I would still NEVER used those glass or plastic filters, although I get that people like to "see" if there is crud in the fuel.
My Ford service manual only refers to the fuel filter fitted to the Autolite carburetor with no reference to additional filters. Having said that, I know all 4 of my Mustangs had filters in the position mentioned. I have not had any problems that I've noticed.
Thanks for your input,
Geoff.
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#10
Pastel Blue;288752 Wrote:
TommyK;288747 Wrote:
Stanglover;288707 Wrote:Just my advice;
Do NOT put the fuel filter near the carb!! It should go between the pump and the line protruding from the inner apron. See picture #4.

I will respectfully disagree here. Restrictions on the suction side of the pump will increase the likelihood of vapor related fuel issues. For this reason I always recommend the filter be placed on the pressure side of the pump.

Concur... There is a reason that Ford Engineers put the factory fuel filter at the carb. I also worry about the point from where the fuel filter is installed aft apron until the fuel reaches the carb inlet. I personally want to ensure that only clean fuel is reaching the carb. inlet. I have seen additional fuel filters installed at the apron, but I am a fan of less connections/cuts in a fuel line, the better.

Yes, but those filters were steel. It's those glass and plastic things people put on that worry me. The Holley carbs have sintered bronze filters in each inlet and Autolite's have a filter as you describe.
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