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Replace Exhaust manifold gasket
#1
hi folks, I have an exhaust gasket leak, not sure which side, not good so I want to get it fixed. Wondered, anyone tried replacing, and how big a job is it? I took a quick look in the engine bay earlier today and could barely see the manifold bolts..... Can I get to them easily from above, below or will I need to lift the engine out? It's a 351 Cleveland 4V. Pics would be appreciated. thanks....
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#2
It's a pretty easy job. You should be able to get to all the manifold bolts to the heads from the top and the manifold bolts to the exhaust from the bottom. The main problem is that the bolts are usually pretty rusted. WD 40 and a good 6 sided socket is the trick.

72 Q Code Mach 1, 351C, Toploader.
69 Torino GT Convertible, 351W, FMX
03 Anniversary Harley Davidson
31 Deluxe Tudor
91 F350 Lariet Crewcab 4x4, 460, automatic
2012 Escape 4x4
92 Feature Edition Mustang
82 F100 Shortbed
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#3
oldmountainfarm;26267 Wrote:It's a pretty easy job. You should be able to get to all the manifold bolts to the heads from the top and the manifold bolts to the exhaust from the bottom. The main problem is that the bolts are usually pretty rusted. WD 40 and a good 6 sided socket is the trick.

thanks mate, will take a look in the morning, weather permitting will do the strut rod bushings first and then take a look at the exhaust manifold bolts and prep them for removal (will order a new set of bolts first and replace)
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#4
Not hard to do.Soak the bolts with some penatrating oil.

[Image: 20r9ylt.jpg]
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#5
It should be obvious which side it is by the sound.

If not, use a mirror and look for a little black soot.

And maybe it's not at the manifold to head but perhaps where they meet the pipe or ??

If you still don't know which side, the passenger side is a little easier than the drivers...


'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#6
You will, of course, replace both sides since you're in there, right? Wink

But the wisdom that is from above is first pure, then peaceable, gentle, and easy to be intreated, full of mercy and good fruits, without partiality, and without hypocrisy. James 3:17 (KJV)

[Image: 2member12162.png]
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#7
sure thing, thanks guys, its not something I noticed but upon a routine annual inspection one of the mechanics mentioned it, I have noticed mild smell of fuel when driving so I figured it made sense that one of the exhaust manifolds were blowing....
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#8
Do you have tubular headers (extractors) on the car? If so, make sure the replacement gaskets are matched to the primary pipe size. Some racing gaskets for very large primary pipe diameters (2- 2.125) will not seal to 1.75 pipe flanges. I believe the original cast iron manifolds did not use a gasket. The Ford manual calls for the mating surface to be clean and applying graphite grease to the mating surfaces. an alternative I've used successfully is applying a THIN layer of RTV to the surfaces, bolt it together, let dry 12 hours before starting.

Chuck
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#9
hi Chuck, I'm not that technical and I don't know what you fully mean. I'll try and get a photo of the headers once I've unbolted and then will post, hopefully you folks can explain what I need to look out for. I bought some gaskets from NPD, so not even sure now if they're the right ones....
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#10
A few pointers since I not too long ago replaced my passenger side manifold.
1) Soak the bolts. They are likely rusted in.
2) If you cant break them loose at the angle you will be working at, you can unbolt one side of the engine mount and jack it up for easier access.
3) If at some point you have to keep searching for the leak, there is no seal where the manifold meets the exhaust pipe, it is just a cone. So just snug it up and keep looking.

Good luck
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