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Removal of side stripes
#1
Does anyone know an easier way to remove the sides stripes from the car?

Tried a heat gun......didn't work very well and also tried some decal remover and that didn't work either.

[Image: 1_14_01_12_10_54_29.png]

Ken

73 Convertible 302-4v-3spd yellow /white int

08 Bullitt 4.6-5 spd black/black int


All I ask is a chance to prove that money can't make me happy
  Reply
#2
Naptha will soften the glue and not hurt paint.

3M makes a mechanical stripe remover that acts like an eraser in a power drill.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#3
Are they the original (old) decals?
Are you going to repaint it?

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
  Reply
#4
Yes they are original, and yes will be painted.

[Image: 1_14_01_12_10_54_29.png]

Ken

73 Convertible 302-4v-3spd yellow /white int

08 Bullitt 4.6-5 spd black/black int


All I ask is a chance to prove that money can't make me happy
  Reply
#5
Reason why I asked is that vinyl usually gets brittle, and the glue hard, with age.
I use only a standard hair dryer and a dull razor blade scraper. New blades tend to gouge easily.

I own a heat gun, but it is WAY too heavy and hot to work with the scraping hand.
I usually get the surface warm, start the decal with the scraper and peel the rest by hand, keeping the heat in front of my working area. Get it too warm, or get the vinyl that is close to the sheetmetal too warm, and it will break as you're pulling it.

Reflective material is THE worst... it's a PITA all around. Standard vinyl isn't too bad.

It sometimes takes a little getting used to.

Sometimes, if it's too old and brittle (old houseboat jobs I've done that sit outside forever come to mind), it will need scraped all the way. Most times this method leaves behind the adhesive, requiring a soaking with mineral spirits and re-scraped, often more than once. Work in small areas. The glue, if not removed, will funk up your sandpaper.
Every job I've done has been "different" in one way or another.

The eraser wheels mentioned above work great too.
http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/automot...-400e.html

Available in a kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Astro-Pneumatic-...0870140868

I've seen wider ones than this, with the flappy fingers:
http://www.amazon.com/Dynabrade-92255-4-...aser+wheel

3M makes a version, too, but I don't like it. Wheel looks similar, but is comprised of a stack of thin floppy discs on the arbor that fly apart when over-revved.
One drawback to any of the wheels is that they fling balls of material and hot wheel boogers everywhere.

I've stripped a bunch of striped vehicles, but don't own an eraser (have tried them, but don't have a burning need). Same deal with stripper chemicals... never had luck with 'em, have no need.
Have some vintage cans of the sprayable 3M "Woodgrain and Stripe" remover (ha - woodgrain - LOL); use it for stripping gasket chunks from old Holleys...

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
  Reply
#6
MotoArts;126930 Wrote:Reason why I asked is that vinyl usually gets brittle, and the glue hard, with age.
I use only a standard hair dryer and a dull razor blade scraper. New blades tend to gouge easily.

I own a heat gun, but it is WAY too heavy and hot to work with the scraping hand.
I usually get the surface warm, start the decal with the scraper and peel the rest by hand, keeping the heat in front of my working area. Get it too warm, or get the vinyl that is close to the sheetmetal too warm, and it will break as you're pulling it.

Reflective material is THE worst... it's a PITA all around. Standard vinyl isn't too bad.

It sometimes takes a little getting used to.

Sometimes, if it's too old and brittle (old houseboat jobs I've done that sit outside forever come to mind), it will need scraped all the way. Most times this method leaves behind the adhesive, requiring a soaking with mineral spirits and re-scraped, often more than once. Work in small areas. The glue, if not removed, will funk up your sandpaper.
Every job I've done has been "different" in one way or another.

The eraser wheels mentioned above work great too.
http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/automot...-400e.html

Available in a kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Astro-Pneumatic-...0870140868

I've seen wider ones than this, with the flappy fingers:
http://www.amazon.com/Dynabrade-92255-4-...aser+wheel

3M makes a version, too, but I don't like it. Wheel looks similar, but is comprised of a stack of thin floppy discs on the arbor that fly apart when over-revved.
One drawback to any of the wheels is that they fling balls of material and hot wheel boogers everywhere.

I've stripped a bunch of striped vehicles, but don't own an eraser (have tried them, but don't have a burning need). Same deal with stripper chemicals... never had luck with 'em, have no need.
Have some vintage cans of the sprayable 3M "Woodgrain and Stripe" remover (ha - woodgrain - LOL); use it for stripping gasket chunks from old Holleys...


Thanks for all of the info....it's a real pita right now!

[Image: 1_14_01_12_10_54_29.png]

Ken

73 Convertible 302-4v-3spd yellow /white int

08 Bullitt 4.6-5 spd black/black int


All I ask is a chance to prove that money can't make me happy
  Reply
#7
What have you tried (past the heat gun and stripper) so far?
What in particular is happening (or not)?

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
  Reply
#8
I actually just sanded mine off. It was just the trunk stripe though.

[Image: 25rnz1y.jpg]

~Buddy
  Reply
#9
MotoArts;127004 Wrote:What have you tried (past the heat gun and stripper) so far?
What in particular is happening (or not)?


This is what it looks after the heat gun and some decal remover
   

[Image: 1_14_01_12_10_54_29.png]

Ken

73 Convertible 302-4v-3spd yellow /white int

08 Bullitt 4.6-5 spd black/black int


All I ask is a chance to prove that money can't make me happy
  Reply
#10
Good start.
If the glue's still a little gooey, and the black is a little flexible, the hair dryer should do it.
The pinstripe will come off with the dull razor scraper and warmed (not hot) sheetmetal. Just walk the scraper slowly in the direction of the stripe, should come off in a big pigtail like it did on the fender.

When they get dried and cracked, that's when the fun begins. If that's the case and it's going for an overall, 36 or 80 grit on a DA a-la Widowmaker may be the trick Smile In that case, there's nothing left to warm and make pliable. It will come off as dust crystals.

Like I mentioned, every job is different. There's many methods that will work. Get ready for sore thumbs.

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
  Reply
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