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reinforcing convertible chassis
Hello. I am new here. Happy to have found this group. I was told the 73 convertible chassis could use some extra support to prevent flexing. I ordered some global west sub frame connectors. Would you folks want to suggest anything more? A Monte Carlo bar would have to be curved for my MSD distributor. I like the idea of Global West X support on earlier Mustangs. Looks strong. I was even wondering if a simple roll bar would be a good idea. Thank you.
Welcome from the UK.

1971 Grandé
(05-15-2019, 01:19 PM)Pegleg Wrote: Welcome from the UK.

Thank you.
Welcome from the Netherlands!  

This might be an option for you :

I have no experience with these, but might be a solution for you. I did look into this option as I have a convertible myself , which is in pieces at the moment for a full restoration. I have decided to keep the car as original/stock as possible instead of going into the restomod direction,so I don’t mind the 1970’s driving quality myself. 

I am not sure if a roll bar is possible on the convertible... I definitely haven’t seen one before!

Please post some photo’s of your car! People on the forum love photo’s  Big Grin
Welcome from Iowa and post up some pics. The addition of the subframe connectors will help tremendously with body flex especially in the vert. Unless you are going to road race it I think you would be good to go with that addition.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason

[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
I added the global west connectors and that eliminated about 80 percent of the cowl shake,
And that's enough for my use. Monte Carlo bars are inexpensive but I don't know if they stiffen the chassis.
Sorry to say that IMO the 73 vert doesn't have enough factory power to flex anything and that includes my 73.

[/url][Image: mbpsrsig3_zps456db2cb.png]

My thoughts are that these vert’s were already built to handle the power and torque from the factory. As most know, I restored my factory J Code vert as close to original as I could. The engine, although the original block, heads, etc. was internally massaged to provide more subtle hp and torque gains then factory. Not ridiculous (ie. A similar factory grind cam shaft was searched out and used)..., Just the use of better mechanical components in key areas of the engine build that are available today. The original C-6 was rebuilt with an added shift kit. An upgraded torque converter was installed as well. Keep in mind that the factory already upgraded this particular trans ie. the addition of the cast iron tail shaft which in my mind indicates that the engineer’s were aware of the additional stresses on the drive line. .. The car also came with the upgraded 9” trac-lok rear end. I know for a fact based on my observation’s of my car during initial tear down, that the car was driven very, very hard all its previous life. It was still solid, no abnormal kinks other then those caused by driver error and the use of air shocks... My point: If the factory built and released these car’s with almost 400 hp and 500 ft/lbs. (truer #’s than as advertised), then additional structural reinforcements are really not necessary on a factory restored car... Of course this is fully contingent upon a sound body to start with.
Make sure the plate under the exhaust is still there-very important on verts. this plus the subframe connectors are enough unless you get to doing some significant power upgrades.

Roll bars don't add much chassis rigidity until you get to the 8 point versions and full cages, but they make street driving potentially dangerous as in a collision the bar is the hardest thing in the area and will crack your head open like a pecan.

Welcome to the forum where we don't want you to crack your head open like a pecan! (at least not yet)

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
I was actually going to start a new thread because all info I could find on monte carlo bars are a few years old. It seems that the consensus is that the straight ones that are sold for our cars do not work as they will hit the distributor. Can anybody tell me for sure if a curved one from a different year such as 1970 fit a 1971 engine bay?
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