• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Regulator on my 72 351C Q code w/AC
#1
So when I purchased this car it did not have the AC belt installed.  Not sure if the AC just stopped working or what but I also realized that it has the wrong regulator.  It should have the one with the yellow lettering correct, especially on a 351C and with AC?  

As for the AC, what do you guys typically see with these old SelectAire systems.  As I work to restore this car am I pretty much guaranteed to spend a bunch of money to get the AC working again?  

[Image: Regulator.jpg]
[Image: engine.jpg]

short poems about hope

Stang Life!

[Image: Stangs.jpg]






  Reply
#2
Ref your A / C question: I am in Australia but this is what I went through - searched for local A / C places and went in person to 3. This gave me a look at the shop and get to eyeball people I would deal with. Professional presentation & customer service go a long way. Agreed that I would remove the accessible parts, take these in for check & damage report. When returned, I would re-fit to the car and bring it back for system check & gas it up when driveable.

4 months later ( it wasn't urgent, I had other things to do ) compressor was cracked inside ( AU $500 for new ) condenser checked O K, new dryer & flexible lines to suit 134 a refrigerant. Make sure they will re-use the OEM bent tube sections to the condenser & dryer. Took all home, cleaned & refitted as arranged. Replace the drive belt but don't connect the wiring to the clutch yet. Needed new tap in the top heater hose & vac switch inside. A tip here: remove the glove box door & liner, lower instrument section & console for easier access.

When on the road, back in for preliminary vac test - failed due to T X valve blocked. Shop replaced this and all working now. Controls behind the panel are not 100 % but it blows cold air from the center & side vents. That will do me. All up cost AU $1500. I figured functional factory a / c has a resale value and it's on the car so let's make it do its job. Hope you have enough parts to salvage as I did. Check that idler pulley in front - mine was making a horrible noise ( crapped out bearing )
All the best.
PKJ
  Reply
#3
ITMike5.0,     The correct alternator regulator for your 72 with AC would be marked D2TF-AA and have a blue housing  with yellow letters. Over the years a lot of regulators got replaced with what ever was on the shelf. Unless you are building a show car I would replace the regulator with an electronic style such as the Motorcraft GR-540-B (Ford part# FOPZ-10316-A) If at a part house they can cross the Ford or Motorcraft numbers. Stay away from any made in China regulators, (Includes the correct look repo's) they are Junk!!
There are some starting to appear on the market with the period correct cover but with electronic internals. Just be sure to read the description carefully.
If you want the correct "Look" even for a daily driver there are new covers made that can be installed on the electronic regulator.

Steve

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!
  Reply
#4
(09-19-2018, 01:43 AM)secluff Wrote: ITMike5.0,     The correct alternator regulator for your 72 with AC would be marked D2TF-AA and have a blue housing  with yellow letters. Over the years a lot of regulators got replaced with what ever was on the shelf. Unless you are building a show car I would replace the regulator with an electronic style such as the Motorcraft GR-540-B (Ford part# FOPZ-10316-A) If at a part house they can cross the Ford or Motorcraft numbers. Stay away from any made in China regulators, (Includes the correct look repo's) they are Junk!!
There are some starting to appear on the market with the period correct cover but with electronic internals. Just be sure to read the description carefully.
If you want the correct "Look" even for a daily driver there are new covers made that can be installed on the electronic regulator.

So you can get a regulator with new electronic internals with the period correct cover huh!?  That would probably be best I'm sure...  Thanks for that info.  I will see if I can find one.

Stang Life!

[Image: Stangs.jpg]






  Reply
#5
(09-19-2018, 12:04 AM)6DUB606 Wrote: Ref your A / C question:  I am in Australia but this is what I went through - searched for local A / C places and went in person to 3.  This gave me a look at the shop and get to eyeball people I would deal with.  Professional presentation & customer service go a long way.  Agreed that I would remove the accessible parts, take these in for check & damage report.  When returned, I would re-fit to the car and bring it back for system check & gas it up when driveable.  

4 months later ( it wasn't urgent, I had other things to do )  compressor was cracked inside ( AU $500 for new ) condenser checked O K, new dryer & flexible lines to suit 134 a refrigerant. Make sure they will re-use the OEM bent tube sections to the condenser & dryer.   Took all home, cleaned & refitted as arranged.  Replace the drive belt but don't connect the wiring to the clutch yet.  Needed new tap in the top heater hose & vac switch inside.  A tip here: remove the glove box door & liner, lower instrument section & console for easier access.

When on the road, back in for preliminary vac test - failed due to T X valve blocked.  Shop replaced this and all working now.  Controls behind the panel are not 100 % but it blows cold air from the center & side vents.  That will do me.  All up cost  AU $1500.  I figured functional factory a / c has a resale value and it's on the car so let's make it do its job.  Hope you have enough parts to salvage as I did.  Check that idler pulley in front - mine was making a horrible noise ( crapped out bearing )
All the best.
PKJ

Thanks for the info!  I looked and was able to find a company located in Tampa, Florida about an hour and a half from me.  The company is called Original Air www.originalair.com and they rebuild classic auto air conditioning systems.  They also sell rebuilt original parts as well as sell replacement air system/updated systems.  I'm going to get a quote from them.  Once I get that I will start another thread regarding the cost of rebuilding factory air conditioning systems to see what others think or if they are aware of other companies that also rebuild original parts.

Stang Life!

[Image: Stangs.jpg]






  Reply
#6
Here is a period correct regulator with all electronic solid state internals....

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/72...P1332.aspx
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  351C assembly Ryunker 3 226 10-04-2018, 05:29 AM
Last Post: Ryunker
  proper operation of voltage regulator SteveO_71 8 283 08-27-2018, 10:50 AM
Last Post: Don C
  Correct 351C Thermostats 73pony 12 873 08-19-2018, 10:40 AM
Last Post: Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs
Wrench exhaust shield and the heat riser hose on a Q code John J 16 1,634 03-09-2018, 01:39 PM
Last Post: Stanglover
  Slow Crank 351c Studdley 10 690 03-03-2018, 08:21 AM
Last Post: Ron Tanzi
  1972 351c oil pan repair BoweP 4 1,330 01-31-2018, 04:19 PM
Last Post: Ron Tanzi
  Fuel line question for 72 Q-code eventhorizon 5 837 10-06-2017, 08:30 AM
Last Post: Stanglover
Wrench Dash lights voltage regulator John J 3 667 09-29-2017, 05:25 AM
Last Post: midlife



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)