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rebuilding the diff
#1
How expensive would it be to get my differential rebuilt. Is it worth it or is getting a new one a better option. And buy new I was thinking of something like the Currie enterprises diff... Since I plan on taking it to the track once in a while would I be better off with the stronger aftermarket as far as price difference goes.

thanks for any advice

Eric


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#2
Eric, I am sure that 72HCODE will chime in since he rebuilt his.

My personal feeling is that going to a complete aftermarket pumpkin is the way to go, dependent upon one's financial situation and level of expertise.

Since you indicated that you plan on "racing" the car, I would put some DEEP thought into going aftermarket as that is just additional insurance. I had been looking at upgrading to a 31 spline unit in my soon-to-be built 545 but have decided to go to a 35 spline instead - - just for the added insurance, BUT I always tend to "over build.Smile"

BT

Do the RIGHT thing.
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#3
cobra3073;16745 Wrote:Eric, I am sure that 72HCODE will chime in since he rebuilt his.

My personal feeling is that going to a complete aftermarket pumpkin is the way to go, dependent upon one's financial situation and level of expertise.

Since you indicated that you plan on "racing" the car, I would put some DEEP thought into going aftermarket as that is just additional insurance. I had been looking at upgrading to a 31 spline unit in my soon-to-be built 545 but have decided to go to a 35 spline instead - - just for the added insurance, BUT I always tend to "over build.Smile"

BT

Thanks for the advice. I have been slowly convincing myself that the cost of rebuilding would be close to a an aftermarket one and even if it was cheaper would it take the heat. I'm going to the speed shop where I got my engine done tomorrow {girlfriends nova is getting an engine rebuild this year haha} So I'll talk with them about t also.

Eric


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#4
I would also guess it would be about the same to buy as to rebuild.
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#5
I think I paid about $850 for the rebuild (in the car) 325 28 spline trac-lok upgrade. I don't know if thats bad or good but it was right down the road and the guy is good and he's a ford man.Smile Mark

My garage http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage...rxt_uid=40

73 mach 1 351c 4v cc ported, torker2, 750 edelbrock,C6.
73 fastback 351c 2v,performer intake,600 edelbrock,fmx, 325 trac-lok.
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#6
machman_73;16797 Wrote:I think I paid about $850 for the rebuild (in the car) 325 28 spline trac-lok upgrade. I don't know if thats bad or good but it was right down the road and the guy is good and he's a ford man.Smile Mark

The Currie diff I was looking at is 1259$ at summit and since everything is usually more expensive here I think I'll go with a new aftermarket one.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CUR-9TL375S/

what are the differences between Traction Lok, True-Trac, full spool or Detroit Locker and what would you guy's suggest. I hear alot about traction lock but the other ones are new to me. the Currie can be ordered with anyone of these.

Eric


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#7
72fastback;16826 Wrote:
machman_73;16797 Wrote:I think I paid about $850 for the rebuild (in the car) 325 28 spline trac-lok upgrade. I don't know if thats bad or good but it was right down the road and the guy is good and he's a ford man.Smile Mark

The Currie diff I was looking at is 1259$ at summit and since everything is usually more expensive here I think I'll go with a new aftermarket one.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CUR-9TL375S/

what are the differences between Traction Lok, True-Trac, full spool or Detroit Locker and what would you guy's suggest. I hear alot about traction lock but the other ones are new to me. the Currie can be ordered with anyone of these.

Hey you might want to check curries direct site. It may be cheaper. A friend of mine just ordered a rear from them recently (for a old Datsun roadster) but was really reasonable

http://www.currieenterprises.com/

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore...=1049.9500
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#8
thanks tn I'll check it out. I also talked to the guy's from the machine shop where I got my engine done. They told me to check if my nine inch was nodular. They said if it was I could just check to see if it's just a bearing job but if it wasn't that I should definitely get a new one. They told me they could get me a really good price. So first thing is to check my diff. It's still pretty chilly out here it's supposed to warm up by the middle of the week so I'll check it then. Then I guess I'll check my options from there.

Eric


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#9
So I checked my diff and it is not a nodular it is the single ridge type. like the one on the left in the picture. I think I will check the bearings first and see if that is the problem. I am thinking it's probably a 28 spline since it's the most common casing but then again I might get lucky. Is removing the axles a big job or can it be done in an afternoon.

thanks for any info.


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Eric


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#10
72fastback;18065 Wrote:So I checked my diff and it is not a nodular it is the single ridge type. like the one on the left in the picture. I think I will check the bearings first and see if that is the problem. I am thinking it's probably a 28 spline since it's the most common casing but then again I might get lucky. Is removing the axles a big job or can it be done in an afternoon.

thanks for any info.

Not real hard to do

http://www.ehow.com/how_7408522_remove-f...ember.html
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