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Rebuilding the 351C again
#1
Okay as most of you have seen me crying on here about burning three lobes on my cam, because I did not run break in oil, which I have built 100s of motors without it but hey I guess.
So my cord is short and I know I can build a motor but I truly think this big old army boy is scared to build this motor again. It had less time it takes to play a foot ball game on it so I jerked it back out and I should be getting it back soon. All the bearings looked really good, cylinders also were in good condition, but man I am going to double guess my self so much and I know what that leads to.
So let me have it guys, if there are tricks to that motor please share, I already got another tappet and a complete new set of lifters, rockers(everything), rods. The heads, crank, block, and pistons are at the machine shop getting cleaned.
APPLICATION CAMSHAFTS VALVE SETTING RPM
OPERATING
RANGE CAMSHAFT PART NUMBER CAM GRIND NUMBER DURATION VALVE LIFT @ 1.73:1 LOBE SEP. ANGLE
ADV. @ .050”
IN. EX. IN. EX. IN. EX. IN. EX.
Hyd. Hyd. 1500-5500 32-221-3 268H 268 268 218 218 .494 .494 110°



I also have a case of comp cam break in oil, and have heard so many different adjustments I should be using on my rockers which are all new and stock so I should not have a 1.73 correct. See all this small stuff has me second guess what is right. I did the right thing and pulled it out so let me hear from you again the engine is the 351C2V, but will be running a 4bbl 600 cfm.

any good high volume oil pumps you choose

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#2
The oil used and the failure you had are absolutely not reflective of how the engine was assembled. You learned a lesson many others have learned about using "modern" oils. You won't make that mistake again. As for an oil pump I prefer the standard pressure/volume Melling pumps. The failure you had was not related to a lack of lubrication.

Keep your head up and forget about "yesterday"!!

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#3
Yes - what he said. ^^^^^^ thumb

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#4
Good to hear your giving it another go and going the extra mile to clean the entire motor. I personally never run a HV oil pump, stick with a good quality standard pump as mentioned above. buy some good break in oil made specifically for older motors and use the additive. I double cover myself like that just to be certain not to have happen what unfortunately happened to your 1st cam. Its expensive for the oil but less than a new cam. After break in I have had good luck running the Rotella 10w-40 for diesel engines. When you break it in get it fired up, and get the timing set, turn the throttle idle screw up and keep your rpms above 1500 or so. Vary the throttle rpm but don't let it go below 1500 rpm for atleast the first 20 min and you should be fine. Good Luck and great job on seeing this through!!! let us know how it goes!

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#5
Hey Russ -

Keep your chin up. Turtle's suggested breakin procedure is perfect.

Are you having the shop do the short block or long block? I'd suggest pay a few dollars more and have them do the long block, so all you have to do is drop it in and fire it up (more or less Big Grin )

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#6
Well I did get the good break in oil this time, and will run it for time needed to break in.

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
  Reply
#7
IMO after you change the break in oil you still need to run an oil for everyday use that has at least 1200 ppm of zddp such as the Rotella as was previously suggested.

Best of luck.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#8
Rollerize that motor damn it and fix the problem.
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#9
OKay so the cam finally arrived to day and of course the rods they sent me are for a 351M and have another inch on them, go figure.

The only thing I am waiting on is gaskets which are ordered and I will go with a factory pump, I keep going overboard to ensure I keep the correct lube on objects.

No roller for me this is a normal driver and to speed the money and not see a difference is not my ball park.

73vertproject;160774 Wrote:Hey Russ -

Keep your chin up. Turtle's suggested breakin procedure is perfect.

Are you having the shop do the short block or long block? I'd suggest pay a few dollars more and have them do the long block, so all you have to do is drop it in and fire it up (more or less Big Grin )

Yeah the prices they charge to put them together is above rapping. I have all gear to build but have to remove my head from my A$$ to ensure proper fit. I cannot blame anyone but myself and eat the cost, but hell they could fail something just as well and only a few carry any type of warranty, straight hot garbage.

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
  Reply
#10
OK. Keep us posted on the rebuild. Smile

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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