• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
rebuild or not...please look at pics.
#1
Just pulled off one of the heads and found one of the pistons to be beat up at the corner. the cylinder wall doesn't feel to bad, looks like it will definitely need to be bored out. the head has some indentions on it as well, where the bad piston is.
Can you please give me some advise before I take this to the machine shop.
Thanks in advance Smile

updated with new pic


Attached Files
.jpg   2011-05-19_18.43.32.jpg (Size: 100.17 KB / Downloads: 128)
.jpg   2011-05-19_18.44.39.jpg (Size: 98.07 KB / Downloads: 127)
.jpg   2011-05-19_19.16.22.jpg (Size: 93.63 KB / Downloads: 112)
  Reply
#2
hard to tell from the pic but if it is a standard bore block (never bored before) no problem boring and rebuilding.
  Reply
#3
I agree you can go to 60 over without problems as far as the block goes. As for the heads unless you want a stock look depending on how much work they need sometimes aftermarket heads are a better option. I had everything done on my 4v heads and it wasn't cheap. But I did need to get them machined for roller rockers though.

Eric


[Image: a58hgh.jpg]
DRIVE IT DON'T STORE IT!
  Reply
#4
looks like damage from something being dropped down the intake and made it's way into the cylinder. Seen that happen with carb. nuts. They are easy to drop down the bore when carb is off. It looks like #2 cylinder, passenger side. It's physical damage from some foreign object.

Might need a bore to clean up that cylinder. I'd let a machinist make that determination.
Personally, I don't like more than .030 on my engines, but to each his own. You usually wind up with overheating issues at more than .030 over. The blocks are pretty thin.
  Reply
#5
I agree .030" is the limit for a street driven Cleveland. If you go more the blocks need to be stabilized with hard block. WAIT... That's not a Cleveland, I'd still stick to a max of 30 over. Again find a reputable machinist and follow his advice. Interview as many shops as possible and find one you trust. There are several Texas members, maybe they'll chime in with suggestions.
I agree .030" is the limit for a street driven Cleveland. If you go more the blocks need to be stabilized with hard block. WAIT... That's not a Cleveland, I'd still stick to a max of 30 over. Again find a reputable machinist and follow his advice. Interview as many shops as possible and find one you trust. There are several Texas members, maybe they'll chime in with suggestions.

Another possibility is to find a good 5.0 roller cam block to rebuild and lose the worries of wiping out a camshaft on break in.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#6
I agree 100% with DropTop73. The roller block is the way to go. High nickel content so they don't hardly wear the cylinders. I've pulled them apart after 100K miles and you can still see the crosshatch factory hone pattern in the bores. they seem to love crank and rod bearings though.

droptop73;23960 Wrote:Another possibility is to find a good 5.0 roller cam block to rebuild and lose the worries of wiping out a camshaft on break in.

  Reply
#7
RacerX;23965 Wrote:I agree 100% with DropTop73. The roller block is the way to go. High nickel content so they don't hardly wear the cylinders. I've pulled them apart after 100K miles and you can still see the crosshatch factory hone pattern in the bores. they seem to love crank and rod bearings though.

droptop73;23960 Wrote:Another possibility is to find a good 5.0 roller cam block to rebuild and lose the worries of wiping out a camshaft on break in.

I really hate to disagree but why in the world would you go from a mighty 351C to a 5.0Huh But hey good to have options just not the one I would choose for our cars. I would also stick to the .030 over theory though.
  Reply
#8
Looking at the pictures of the block and head, that's not a Cleveland that he's having issues with.

Tnfastbk;23971 Wrote:
RacerX;23965 Wrote:I agree 100% with DropTop73. The roller block is the way to go. High nickel content so they don't hardly wear the cylinders. I've pulled them apart after 100K miles and you can still see the crosshatch factory hone pattern in the bores. they seem to love crank and rod bearings though.

droptop73;23960 Wrote:Another possibility is to find a good 5.0 roller cam block to rebuild and lose the worries of wiping out a camshaft on break in.

I really hate to disagree but why in the world would you go from a mighty 351C to a 5.0Huh But hey good to have options just not the one I would choose for our cars. I would also stick to the .030 over theory though.

  Reply
#9

Blush DOH!!!!!!!!!!!sorry just looked for the marks and assumed. And yes it worked agian...................that old saying about assumingDodgy


  Reply
#10
Tnfastbk;23971 Wrote:
RacerX;23965 Wrote:I agree 100% with DropTop73. The roller block is the way to go. High nickel content so they don't hardly wear the cylinders. I've pulled them apart after 100K miles and you can still see the crosshatch factory hone pattern in the bores. they seem to love crank and rod bearings though.

droptop73;23960 Wrote:Another possibility is to find a good 5.0 roller cam block to rebuild and lose the worries of wiping out a camshaft on break in.

I really hate to disagree but why in the world would you go from a mighty 351C to a 5.0Huh But hey good to have options just not the one I would choose for our cars. I would also stick to the .030 over theory though.

Roy, you did this ...
Had silver car with mighty 351C 4 speed
Now have black car with 5.0
Don
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  4 Speed toploader rebuild canadian_red_maple_leaf 6 8,409 11 hours ago
Last Post: Manu Mach1
  Rebuild or Buy new motor Cresee 21 1,062 05-12-2018, 07:56 PM
Last Post: barnett468
  Parts list for my 351C 1983 Rebuild mrmolding 17 766 01-21-2018, 08:31 PM
Last Post: mrmolding
  Suggestions for carb/intake combination mild rebuild timachone 15 956 01-20-2018, 02:15 PM
Last Post: Canted 393
  1972 Coupe Engine Swap/Rebuild? Help! Knoxville72Stang 14 710 11-08-2017, 05:08 PM
Last Post: delawarebill
  Intake and head suggestion 351c 2v rebuild klinton994 13 1,576 02-14-2017, 10:01 PM
Last Post: 4Vforever
  Engine rebuild after broken timing chain antipasti 14 1,169 10-29-2016, 10:32 AM
Last Post: antipasti
  Distributor Rebuild- Bearing Change Out Wolverine 2 600 08-23-2016, 01:44 PM
Last Post: Don C



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)