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Rear Window Install Mach
I have the excellent write up done by 72HCODE years ago, detailing the rear window install.
The foam tape is the question...?
I don't have it and I need to install in a couple days from now.
The digging I did seems to say that the foam tape was an assembly line maybe?  as with many other mustang factory line  build anomalies..
Seems to me that if 3M sealant is used after the window is  in place.   That should be good.

Anybody do a rear window install recently or will give some advice?

I had one done years ago on my 67 fastback with no sealants, just the rubber qasket. It was good for  20 years.


So I understand the basics of using the nylon rope on the gasket to pull the window in...Any tips?  real life experience?


I found this from McMaster-Carr.

Weather- and Abrasion-Resistant Foam Strip, Blended EPDM with Adhesive-Back, 3/4" Wide, 1/4" Thick, 50', Each of 50


Here the main specs of any seal for the rear windows.

Light Duty Blended EPDM Foam Sheets and Strips

EPDM is blended with neoprene and SBR to create a general-purpose foam that offers good resistance to water and wear. This foam has closed-cell construction, which restricts water, air, and gases from being absorbed.

mustang7173 Thankyouyellow

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne
[+] 1 user Likes mustang7173's post
I installed my rear window a couple years ago but remember it clearly.  I actually had to install it twice, because I put the foam along the bottom of the windshield and couldn't get the chrome on because the bottom was too high. Only put foam around the top and sides of the window!! I also did not feel the "Drop" once the window was in place. Another thing I ran into was that the nylon rope cut the foam anywhere it stuck out from the window ledge, like a shearing action, but there was still enough foam left to seal the window. You MUST have a second person help that is comfortable working with glass, my buddy was really nervous about helping. Move slowly pulling the rope, the corners will give you the most trouble, you just have to work the rope around a bit to get the get the rubber over the ledge. Make sure to mask off about 2" all around the window. Oh!! and make sure it is as centered in the widow well as possible, you want to have plenty of space to use sealant. And lastly, make sure you have the good bright work clips, the cheap ones are very stiff and don't have a good bite on the chrome.
This is my opinion. The foam tape was just a way for Ford to get away from having to dispense the sealer and to save time on the assembly line. It is not always better.
I would use the 3-M windshield sealer from calk tube. Not the type you use for putting the windshield in but the type for using rubber seals, non hardening.
If you take your time and hammer and dolly the flange and grind smooth the window opening and take the sharp edge off the edge to allow the rubber to slide easily using the sealer from the calk tube works great. The key is use it sparingly. All it needs to do is fill in the tiny voids and spaces the rubber gasket does not fill. I usually put a tiny bead inside the rubber and then put the rubber on the window. You do not want it coming out after install.
Since you set the lower edge of the window and rubber in place I do put a small amount of sealer on the flange in the car. It is difficult to do the bottom when in the car. Put is on the rubber not the flange so you do not push it off when installing.
Since you know the method of using the nylon string to pull the gasket into the opening it will be easy. I use a woodruff key puller to hook the two top corners and help pull them in with the cord. You set the bottom edge of the window and rubber over the flange and work it down before starting to pull the sides and top in. This is for sure a two man job pushing pulling and massaging the window and rubber into place. I am sure there are videos on the net.
It needs to be a warm day or in a heated space to keep the rubber soft and pliable.
After you have the window installed I go around the rubber strip and put a very minimal amount of the windshield sealer between the rubber and the metal flange to fill any tiny voids. You can have someone lift the rubber edge so you can get under it and mover around it. You want just very little.
Some people make the mistake of using a sealer that gets hard or is actually and adhesive type. You need to get the not hardening SEALER that 3-M makes. The number escapes me right now but have used on cars from the 50's up with rubber seals and it always works.
Keeping the sealer to a minimum also helps you to be able to install the rear trim piece without the sealer being in the way.
The foam used on the window and also the drip rail moldings is not the best way. They were bad to leak when brand new I know from experience of being and original owner.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Thought I'd share my experience today.  
I did use the foam tape.  I had it leftover from doing my drip rails.

I laid the bottom edge in place.  Then worked the two bottom corners of the gasket down into place using the rope and my fingers about  4" up each side.    
My son only had to apply enough pressure from the top that would allow me working the rope from beneath to pull the gasket lip into the car.


Now comes the seal up with 3M #08509.

Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
GOOD JOB!!! Whew!! That's over!!!
Now the test !!! What gasket did you use ?
Will it leak ? I hope not, mine did and I had remove it , again.....
Lets hope I am successful this time.
Thanks, Jay
Sorry for the slow response... I haven't sealed it up yet or installed the trim.

I used a gasket from from NPD. I think it was from Daniel Carpenter... felt nice...
When it's sealed up, it can't leak..right? we'll see

my new front window got installed by my glass friend last week,
I've got both to trim out..
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