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Rear Sway Bar Removal?
#1
on my current wheel its a 17x9 with a 5BS. i went under there and there is at least 3 inches of room before the tire will rub against the leaf spring. however, the factory sway bar is about 1 5/8 inch from rubbing with the wheel and thats the only part swaybar that will come in contact.

knowing this, a 6.25BS will be just about perfect to give some clearance between the wheel and the sway bar. that'll bring me to a 17x10.25 size wheel. i want to tuck under a 315-35-17 that requires a 10.5 wheel or somewhere in the neighborhood of similar size but thats closer to 28 inches tall (the 315 size is only 25.7 inches tall). so i'm thinking about removing the sway bar and coming more into clearance issues with the the tire rubbing the leaf springs or somewhere in wheel well. i would assume i'd have to have somewhere in the neighborhood of 7.25 backspacing.

i do believe my best option is to go with an addition 2 inch backspacing growing it to a 7 inch backspacing and then offset it with a 3/4 inch spacer to give it that 6.25 BS so it'll clear the rear sway bar. on the wheel/tire to the fender looks like i have plenty of room to grow as well. i put a straight edge on the tire and measured where that line is to my rolled lip is. that is another 1.25 inches. so i'm assuming pushing out the wheel another .75 inches would be ok and my rear suspension doesn't bottom out at all.

what do you guys think? i'm trying to put a fat drag radial back there, but if a rear swaybar is encouraged to be removed, then i'm going to remove it anyways and possibly go with a 12 inch wide wheel.

please help!!!!
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#2
Ok i order some competition engineering traction bars and they are set up to completely replace the OEM shock mount. the u-bolts are difference sized so i couldn't reuse the sway bar mount either. so there goes the idea of even thinking about keeping it. and as well all the measuring for the widest wheel and BACKSPACING with the sway bar. once i figured out that i had to remove the sway bar and alot more room for wheel is available i did some testing and fitment.

here are some pics!!!

CoolBig GrinCoolBig GrinWinkWink
in the above pictures:

pic 1: is the clearance ISSUE with a 07gt 20x10 wheel with 7.2BS. it mounts up just fine but when its all tight and said and done, the tire ever so slightly rubs against the front fender well but has more than enough space to be spaced out at minimum of 1/4 inch or MORE to fit.

pic 2: is the clearance of the inside of the wheel well which you can see plenty of room before anything hits.

pic 3: you can see there is plenty of room between the wheel/tire and the leaf spring so no issue.

pic 4: is a picture of my 17x9 5BS wheel that has been widened to a 17x11 w/ a 7.0BS!!!TongueTongue

pic 5: is the clearance with 17x11 7BS with the tire mounted. there is more than plenty of space around for no rubbish.

pic 6: is just another picture of the whel mouted alone and showing no issues.

pic 7 is the front fender wheel shot of how much difference the .2 less BS makes. the tire has more clearance from rubbing. and doesn't hurt that the tire is only 25.7 compared to the 27 inch tire on the 20.

pic 8: is just a quick shot of how wide the new wheel is after getting it widened by "Eric Vaughn" in Monrovia California.

pic 9: is a picture of the side view of the tire screaming being mounted on a 11 wide rim. its a 275/40/17 which calls for a 9-11 wheel so its within tire recommend wheel size. a 315/35/17 will be roughly the same overall width but the sidewalls won't pull out and it'll be pure tread for the entire width.

pic 10: is just another quick pic of the front view of the tire screaming of being on a 11 wide rim now.

pic 11: is a repeat of the clearance with a 7.0BS wheel and only a 25.7 tire.

i really want to space out the wheel closer to the fender well. but i'll have to do that when the "nitto nt05r in 315/35/17s" come in so i know if i have to space it or not. i probably won't cuz the tire is the same height but i know it'll look better if i spaced it out some more closer to the fender.

i have 3 inch long studs so no issue with lug nut grip length at all.

so, all in all..... i know for a fact that a 12 wide wheel will work with a 7.0BS and another inch or so more towards the front which i want to achieve but afraid to run a 1 inch spacer. so it'll due with a 1/2 spacer. however, i do have a rolled lip.

i hope some of you guys take note of my experience here so somebody next will have a 12 wide wheel to come.


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#3
Cool, these cars will take alot of tire on the rear.

Thanks for the information Olie

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#4
Wow, going big in back. Did you already install the upgrades?

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
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#5
hey xoliex i have a question on your traction bars, for i have comp engenering traction bars the adjustabe ones slide-a-link i think there called just some words of advice u will need to cut about 1,25-1.75 of an inch off your leaf springs, at least i did and a few others i have knows to make these work on a hd 5 leaf spring



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#6
homelessmexican;27399 Wrote:hey xoliex i have a question on your traction bars, for i have comp engenering traction bars the adjustabe ones slide-a-link i think there called just some words of advice u will need to cut about 1,25-1.75 of an inch off your leaf springs, at least i did and a few others i have knows to make these work on a hd 5 leaf spring

i really don't follow what you mean by cutting anything off the leaf spring. all i had to do was cut off an excess amount of bolt that was in the middle of the leaf spring that held all the leafs together. i cut the bolt down so it wouldn't hang down past the nut. i took the nut off and locktited the nut. thats all i have to do to make the it work. i do however need to readjust the front flat u bolt to achieve a good 1/4 clearance. i think i'm almost touching at the moment.
droptop73;27377 Wrote:Cool, these cars will take alot of tire on the rear.

Thanks for the information Olie

i just discovered that there are 345-40-17 that are a perfect 27.7 height. will need a spacer by the time i do this or break out with the 3-5lbs sledge hammer to fold in that fender well that sticking out and rubbing.

the nice part is that the part that rubs in the front can be bent in and it ain't a part that goes into the floor pan.

or make it easier and just cut it off!!!

sm3570;27382 Wrote:Wow, going big in back. Did you already install the upgrades?

i installed everything. i just got to plumb up the brakes lines for the line lock!!
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