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RAM air flaps control
#1
For whatever reason I like the idea of being able to manually control the ram air flaps instead of them only opening when you step on the gas. Will the intake work more efficiently with the flaps open when cruising down the highway?
It will be as easy as installing an inline vacuum solenoid switch that will shut off at the press of a button to open the flaps. There are a lot of vacuum solenoids, but the ones I find are normally close ones. Ideally, I would like to find a vacuum solenoid that is normally open, and that when electrified, it will shut off. It will be an easy and cheap way of controlling the flaps.
Is this a waste of time?
Do you know of any vacuum solenoids that operate normally open?

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#2
Since the engine vacuum holds the ram air plates closed. a simple manual switch would allow you shut off the vacuum and open the plates while driving whenever you wanted to.

   

Used to see this now and then back in the 70's and 80's on those rare cars that actually had a ram air setup. Usually mounted within reach under driver's dash. Its just a matter of extending the vacuum supply hose inside the vehicle and back out to the vacuum motors.
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#3
Bill73Ragtop;287695 Wrote:Since the engine vacuum holds the ram air plates closed. a simple manual switch would allow you shut off the vacuum and open the plates while driving whenever you wanted to.



Used to see this now and then back in the 70's and 80's on those rare cars that actually had a ram air setup. Usually mounted within reach under driver's dash. Its just a matter of extending the vacuum supply hose inside the vehicle and back out to the vacuum motors.

I was thinking of a solenoid activated valve. It will be activated by an electrical switch.
Something like these:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_...cuum+valve

However, I don't know if these are normally open or close.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#4
I have heard lots of people say that the hood does not work but it is easy to tell. The old time hot rodders use to put strips of yarn on the body of their cars so they could see the air flow at speed, take pictures.
A guy here runs at Bonneville and runs a Mustang 2 with a Chevy drive train. He held his class record and is a member of the 200 mph club. He runs a very small CI I think like 250. He was running one of the high hood scoops like the pro stock guys run. One of his friends works in the Ford wind tunnel in Atlanta. He convinced him to build another hood and use the NASA scoop design. So he did and after he had made passes with his old hood he put the new NASA hood on and made a pass. This car has electronic fuel injection on it. It melted several pistons on that run because the hood flowed so much more air it leaned out the mixture too much.
The same guy at the wind tunnel said most cars would go faster turned backwards. Not enough attention paid to the rear of the car. Look at a jet plane rounded front and pointed rear to let the air flow off and not hold back. A super sonic plane is pointed on both ends.
If you want to see if air is going into the scoops tape pieces of knitting yarn in front of and around the scoops, 4"-6" long and go down the road. If you have a GoPro mount on the hood. If the yarn goes into the scoop then it is working if it goes around it not working.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#5
Here is one. You have to sleeve 12v DC in the drop down.

http://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=2W04008KN

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#6
Some of the '73 Mustangs with 351s had a normally open solenoid vacuum valve in the emissions system, but lots of luck finding one of those.

If you do find a valve that will work, you'll also have to have some way to bleed the vacuum off, between the valve and the flapper motors, otherwise the vacuum will be trapped and keep the flappers closed (assuming there are no leaks).



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#7
Don C;287721 Wrote:Some of the '73 Mustangs with 351s had a normally open solenoid vacuum valve in the emissions system, but lots of luck finding one of those.

If you do find a valve that will work, you'll also have to have some way to bleed the vacuum off, between the valve and the flapper motors, otherwise the vacuum will be trapped and keep the flappers closed (assuming there are no leaks).

That's a good point. you would almost have to use both a normally open valve and a normally closed valve in conjunction. Have both operate form the same switch feed and place the normally closed valve between the normally open valve and the flappers. The normally closed valve can then open up and bleed off the vacuum when the switch is activated. Hope this helps.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#8
I think I may have found the solution. The EGR VSV valve is a vented solenoid valve that appears to be normally open.
That will be Dorman's 911-604 for Toyota. This links explain how they function, http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/vsv.html .
They are normally open and when closed they vent the close end to release the vacuum.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#9
tony-muscle;287731 Wrote:I think I may have found the solution. The EGR VSV valve is a vented solenoid valve that appears to be normally open.
That will be Dorman's 911-604 for Toyota. This links explain how they function, http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/vsv.html .
They are normally open and when closed they vent the close end to release the vacuum.

Sounds like that would do everything you need. And only $32 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-604-To...B003VCDFCE

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
  Reply
#10
Looks like that should work, not a bad price on Amazon, either.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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