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Rag joint question
#11
runninpony 
+1 on that!

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#12
Yep, I just received the new one in the mail and guess what, it's the Scott Drake one with the pins that are too short. I was specifically looking to avoid the SD one as I have read that the pins are too short and the linked part and description did not say Scott Drake, figured I was good, what a let-down when I opened the package. Well, I will see what I can do this weekend and report back here.

Tom
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#13
I think Rock Auto sells a Lars one. The pins are the right length but they are both the thinner pins. Not optimal but better than the pins being too short.

Here is a link

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford...upler,7418

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#14
Thanks 73pony, I was just on RockAuto's site, they have a Lars 201 and a 202 listed. My car is a 73 but the steering box came out of a 72. Both are non-tilt columns, is there any way to determine which one I need, i.e, Lars 201 or the 202? Thanks for any assistance.

Tom
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#15
When I did mine I counted the splines and ordered the 201 as mine was 31 spline with the flat, not the full round with 36 splines. mine was a 73 box and column.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#16
Thanks, looking at mine, it looks to have a lot of the splines worn off, hard to tell if there is/was ever an actual flat spot or not. One area feels completely flat but has witness marks that look like they would have been splines. I guess I will try to count the actual splines on the gearbox. I have looked on the gearbox for any markings to help identify it and do not see any. I do know that from left to right lock, it is 4 full turns and turning back 2 full turns from lock, the larger of the rag joint pins is at the 12:00 position as it should be. Never thought that something as simple as this would be such a headache. Thanks and more to follow.

Tom
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#17
Can you take a picture of what you are saying about the pins are too short? The pins do not do anything unless the rubber breaks and they are there so you do not loose all steering. They would not have to stick out much to hit and connect with the other side.
I would think Drake would have gotten a law suit by now if they were not capable of working in a safety related item.
I ground mine off with zip wheel and use drive pin punch and just knocked the pins out. Put the triangle metal washers on the new Dorman rag joint and bolted it all back in. Been in nearly 3 years now no issues.
I do not have a great picture and this is a tilt column out of a 73. I also put new turn signal switch in and ignition key.
[Image: 100-2449.jpg]


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#18
There should be a flat. The Lares 201 is the correct one. The pins are really a safety thing, but I do believe Ford and may be others, used one larger pin for quick assembly on the line, hard to screw-up that way!! For sure the SD pins are totally useless as they do not engage the slots on the column plate. You do need to make sure the sector shaft is centered before putting it in. It will fit with the through bolt head uppermost looking down on it.
I don't have a pic of this, but maybe this one of the spline on the input shaft will help.
Geoff.

[Image: IMG-0761.jpg]

I learn something new every day!
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#19
Thanks everyone, I just went out and verified that there is a flat portion on the gearbox and the flat portion is facing up. I had centered it prior to taking off the old rag joint and the larger pin was at 12:00 and smaller at 6, so the steering should be centered as it sits now. @David, I sat the old rag joint next to the SD and the SD pins (both large and small pins) are about 1/4 inch shorter than the original, honestly I don't know if that makes a difference or not but the pins that came with the Dorman kit are the same length as my old rag joint. Good to hear that you can drive the pins out, maybe if the Lars 201 doesn't have the correct diameter pins (I read here that they were both the small pins), I will drive one out and use the bolt in pins that came with my Dorman part. I would have just rebuilt my old one but when I took it off, most of the splines just kinda disintegrated. But the good thing is, after this, I will have more extra parts laying around if I ever need them. And thanks for the pictures, they help alot.

Thank everyone, more to follow

Tom
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#20
+1 the Scott Drake pins do not even come close to engaging. I cannot believe there hasn't been a lawsuit either.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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